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OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BenWA, Apr 17, 2011.

  1. Dec 12, 2013 at 12:55 PM
    #1361
    hogdoc

    hogdoc Member

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    I drove the wifes truck the other day and had this vibration, it was right there in the 35-40 mph range and went away as I hoped on the highway. I though it was just the Toyos warming up since is was in the 20's that day. Guess I better drive it again and check the 2H-4H switch and see if there is a change. Cant wait to have to argue with the dealer over this! BTW truck only has 7000 miles!
     
  2. Dec 12, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #1362
    BigHeadTaco

    BigHeadTaco GFY

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    Full OME lift 885's with Dakar leaf springs. LR UCA's. ImMrYo relocation bracket.
    Ordered the ECGS bushing, hoping to have it installed in the next few weeks. Crossing my fingers that this works so I can enjoy my Tacoma again!!!
     
  3. Dec 13, 2013 at 4:06 AM
    #1363
    2006KJ

    2006KJ Well-Known Member

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    If it helps. I rented a slide hammer. Race and bearing driver. And axle nut sockets from autozone. Already had all the other tools I needed except the puller I got from ECGS
     
  4. Dec 13, 2013 at 10:17 AM
    #1364
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR нет войне

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    Rob II
    Okanagan, Canada
    Vehicle:
    05 DCLB TRD Sport
    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    for newbie, amateur mechanics like myself, if you purchase the full kit from ECGS, they provide the removal tool and a set of the bearing race install cups.
     
  5. Dec 13, 2013 at 10:51 AM
    #1365
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    Prescott, AZ
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    Monster Exhaust, Shell, 5100's all around, Airlift airbags, Hankook Atm, K&M air filter
    Received the CVJ axle and finished the installation yesterday. Drove Taco for 45 minutes and no leak or vibrations. One note. When I received the re manufactured axle from CVJ I noticed that the center shaft was slightly smaller in diameter than the one I removed. I called CVJ and asked about it. They said that there's a slight difference between the axles made in Japan and the ones manufactured in the US. The shaft stubs going into the differential and hub assembly were the same size as the stock axle. Everything installed fine and works perfectly.....so far.
     
  6. Dec 13, 2013 at 10:59 AM
    #1366
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    I also rented the axle puller from Autozone. When I was ready to use it I noticed that the hooks were messed up. No sharp edges....all rounded off. I had to use two large hose clamps (which I noticed from another post) to put around the axle and the jaw which was hooked into the indentation on the axle housing to keep the hook from slipping out. It worked and the axle slipped right out after a couple of slams from the sliding hammer....
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2013
  7. Dec 13, 2013 at 11:55 AM
    #1367
    hogdoc

    hogdoc Member

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    Yep, drove it today 35-42 it vibes, throw it in 4x4 it goes away, back to 4x2 it comes back. Went 10 miles down hiway and back onto city streets and it's gone. :facepalm:
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2013
  8. Dec 13, 2013 at 1:25 PM
    #1368
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    Don't worry.....it'll be back.....
     
  9. Dec 14, 2013 at 5:26 AM
    #1369
    qnyla

    qnyla Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm, first time I've heard that. I have had the ECGS bushing in for 54k miles with no issue, but now that I am getting ready to swap out my CV axles and have new reman OEM axles on the way from CVJ, so interested in this information.
     
  10. Dec 14, 2013 at 8:06 AM
    #1370
    BigHeadTaco

    BigHeadTaco GFY

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    54k on the ECGS bushing with no issues is great news
     
  11. Dec 14, 2013 at 8:27 AM
    #1371
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    The thing that I wonder about these remanufactured axles is I believe they take OEM pieces and, among other things, may relathe parts if there are scores or grooves or other imperfections on the running surface where the seal rides and at the bushing/needle bearing. This could reduce the diameter a bit and cause increased clearance at the seal and inside the bushing. IDK if you could get more seeping at the seal and possibly some additional droop.
     
  12. Dec 14, 2013 at 9:56 AM
    #1372
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    Taco'09, the in put bearing surface and spline were to spec. It was the part of the axle between the CV joints that was smaller in diameter (about 3/16") everything is tight where the shaft fits into the bushing compared to what it was before the bushing install. The seal fit properly.
     
  13. Dec 14, 2013 at 12:11 PM
    #1373
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    Here's a photo of the damage starting to appear on the bearing surface on the CV shaft. Not at bat as some but only had about 1000 miles on the truck after the 1.75" lift. (19 thousand miles total on the truck)

    DSCF0014-b.jpg
     
  14. Dec 14, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #1374
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    ^^ DonL, thanks for the clarification about this. It helps alleviate some of my trepidations about using a reman CV shaft.

    In your second post with the photo, that is what my passenger side looked like at low miles. Go figure how the passenger side is also getting hammered by the needles to cause that type of scoring.
     
  15. Dec 14, 2013 at 3:45 PM
    #1375
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    Taco'09 when I had the original axle and needle bearing out I slipped the bearing on the axle and couldn't believe the lack of tolerance. The bearing just wiggled on the axle. Maybe it was just warn down. Go figure at 19,000 miles. Toyota just ain't like it used to be. I had and '89 Toyota pick up with the new 3.0L V6 with 92,000 miles when the head gaskets started to leak coolant. Cost over $1100 bucks......Toyota picked up the whole bill...from a non Toyota mechanic.
     
  16. Dec 14, 2013 at 4:33 PM
    #1376
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    ^^ DonL, you gotta love how that needle bearing is designed. The small needles sit in a plastic cage. A PLASTIC CAGE.
    Ya think that the plastic could be deforming when hot and loaded with the CV axle? That CV axle is not exactly featherweight and needle bearings don't like side loads. Here is an idea Toyota, if you want a needle bearing there use a steel cage and put in a couple of more needles. Better yet, ditch the needle bearing and use a ball bearing like on the right side. But ditch the FREEKING PLASTIC CAGE!!!!

    Oh, and and another thing Toyota, get out of the denial mode that there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the front differential. As I have stated many times in this thread, I believe every last one of these differentials is flawed.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2013
  17. Dec 15, 2013 at 6:01 AM
    #1377
    2006KJ

    2006KJ Well-Known Member

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    Put my bushing in last night. Smooth and quiet. Thanks ECGS!
     
  18. Dec 15, 2013 at 9:16 AM
    #1378
    DaVikes

    DaVikes Well-Known Member

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    Arb front bumper, warn winch, All Pro rear bumper, OME up front, OME and All Pro Standard in Back, ARB locker, 34 x 10.5 KO2's, 17" Level 8 Trackers, and fancy single piece driveshaft.
    "Better yet, ditch the needle bearing and use a ball bearing like on the right side."

    The right side has a ball bearing? I didn't know that. I'm trying to figure out if I should replace just the left side needle bearing, or do both of them at the same time. Does the right side also have tolerance issues? It seems like they may have put a ball bearing in the right side because the CV operating angle is greater than on the left, but I'm just guessing. Would it be possible to put the Toyota ball bearing from the right into the left side and solve the problem that way? My truck has 47k on it now, most of which is with a 2.5" lift.

    Anyone out there, please give me your opinion on whether or not I need to do the right side as well. (Or, if I could just find a used front locker...)

    Toyota apparently designed this truck when they were in the penny wise pound foolish mode. There are so many areas where they tried to save a few cents that have caused a lot of problems. I hope they are out of that mode now.

    Thanks
     
  19. Dec 15, 2013 at 10:04 AM
    #1379
    americanrancher

    americanrancher Active Member

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    Ben
    Oregon
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    5100's, 265 BFG KO's, not lifted, daily driver
    Hi Guys;
    Recently did the ECGS bushing replacement, worked great! Also replaced my right front wheel bearing. Unfortunately almost immediatly after doing these repairs I got a weird vibration in the truck as soon as I put it into gear, don't even have to be rolling. Also sometimes when accelerating, again not all the time. It is worst in the morning and when it is cold. I took it in to my shop but it was not doing it so no luck in tracking it down with them. I thought it may have been the drive shaft carrier bearing but there is very little play in it plus I can get it when not rolling. I have and auto transmission. Any ideas?

    Thanks

    BTW I have a ECGS bearing removal tool available. SOLD
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2013
  20. Dec 15, 2013 at 11:27 AM
    #1380
    DonL

    DonL Well-Known Member

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    Ben, it's hard to believe that after doing both repairs that something else starts going wrong right after the repairs. I'd check my work again. I always go by the old adage, " always do one thing at a time". That way you'll know what went wrong and not go through everything you did to find the problem. I've screwed things up many a time and had to go back and tear everything apart again to find the problem.
     

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