Long Travel BS Thread

By "solid" most people are referring to upgraded mounts, not actually metal on metal SOLID mound. You need to have some give in the mounts to account for frame flex or motor twist from the torque. Also you need to match the mounts, you cant have a solid mount on the trans and stock mounts on the motor, something will break.

 

anyone know anyone who might be interested I'm letting it go cheap

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...5150-engage-long-travel-kit-valved-kings.html

 

So this kit will work on a 4x4 with shocks that have longer rod ends and new axles?

 

i don't think so i believe the engage 4x4 kit has a different LCA

 

I still have a lot of work to do until the truck is really "finished" to my liking but after a long 8 months its back on its own weight and rolling around now. changing shops tomorrow. Trying to make Glamis for New Years but that could be pushing it. Pretty close to ride height:



Full interior will be going back in with custom carpet and headliner over a 4 layer sound deadener.



Come summer we will be changing some of the tubing on the back half, re mounting the spare tires and paneling all the tube work with aluminum.

 

My front OEM replacement coilovers have shiny "rub like" marks on the lower body... Is that spring slap? And if so why isnt the stock bump stop enough? Most likely something bent?

 

It truly kills me...it's the whole kit I want and I'm saving for, I just know it will sell before I can buy it

 

Wheel spacers...in using those are stock wheels huh?

 

That is sick. And one hell of a back up light lol

 

NOT stock wheels those are 4.3" BS rims and 2" spacers. Also 315/75-16 tires.

 

Imagine when it articulates !

 

That is.

 

It's not articulated right there! looks like its close to the bump?

Never mind ^^^

 

Wait! So you have that much rub with 2.3" BS (4.3" wheels + 2" spacers)?! damn!

 

Thats almost complete articulation...

 

damn! that sucks..

maybe move the shocks in a tad??

 

Did the builder cycle this at all?

 

Without spacers I'm pretty sure you would be rubbing rim. Something needs to be adjusted. Either notch the frame or inboard the upper if possible. A 2" spacer on that offset is going to make changing wheel bearings something that needs a little windshield sticker reminder from jiffy lube, every 3K

 

I was told that it was fully cycled. Not sure what I can do except turn the tubes inboard for now?