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Power Door Locks NOT WORKING !!! :(

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by RiceTaco, Dec 20, 2013.

  1. Dec 20, 2013 at 7:51 PM
    #1
    RiceTaco

    RiceTaco [OP] Member

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    Mike
    Prince George Canada
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    03 Double Cab V6 4x4
    Hey guys and gals here's the deal,
    2003 Tacoma Double Cab 3.4 V6 4WD

    4 days ago : Power Locks work fine. Everything is good.

    3 days ago : Drove to Jasper, hit some rain, then temperature dropped to -20 C (-4 F) overnight. Everything still good.

    2 days ago : Try to use FOB to unlock doors. Nothing. I can see the lock knobs trying to move up and down but are struggling.

    1 day ago : Same problem, have to use key as all 4 doors are not locking or unlocking. Still are trying to pop up and down but don't have enough strength. Have to do everything manual.

    Today : Thinking that everything is just frozen from the cold weather, I park the truck into garage to thaw. Now nothing. Door locks no longer attempt to lock/unlock themselves. I hear the click that I usually hear when unlocking and locking my doors, but no movement or effort from the door locks.

    I have checked the PWR fuse under the dash and my power windows are working fine. My automatic start on the FOB works also. I can still get in and out manually. I'm out of ideas and am thinking that it is the actuators. Is it possible that all 4 doors failed at once? I need your help. Thanks Tacoma World. Any more info you guys need?:(
     
  2. Dec 20, 2013 at 8:13 PM
    #2
    SpruceTaco

    SpruceTaco トヨタ

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    Tinted windows 5%, sill protectors, TRD stubby antenna, weathertech in channel rain guards, wheathertech floor mats, BHLM, Truxedo low pro qt, DTRL deleted, anytime backup camera, bed storage locks, fog lights on anytime, tailgate theft deterrent, painted engine cover, relocated horns, l.e.d bed lights, l.e.d engine bay lights, l.e.d lights above cup holders, in glove box, rear cup holder, in console storage & cubby next to steering wheel, Grillcraft grill, 17x8.5 SCS Ray10's, 35x12.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Borla cat back exhaust, map & dome l.e.d's, TEQ badge on grill, Redline tuning hood struts, Maxtrac spindles, SPC Light Racing UCA's, Bilstein 5100's front set at 0 with OME 885's & extended length Bilstein 5100's in the rear, All Pro expedition leaf springs & 2" blocks, extended brake lines front & rear, 1.5" 4crawler drive shaft spacer, Beefed Taco carrier bearing drop, 1.25" spidertrax wheel spacers on rear, Kenwood DNX570 touchscreen with navigation, 30" led light bar in lower bumper opening, 1/4" top plate spacer drivers side, Bullet Proof Fabricating skid plate, Cali Raised ditch lights & Rago f Fabrication brackets, Amp Research power steps, smoked l.e.d 3rd brake light, Wet Okole seat covers, under cab LED'S tied to dome circuit
    I can't see all 4 going bad at once. Do the locks work with the switch inside the truck?
    What about the battery in the FOB? I've had FOBs do weird things when the battery gets low.
     
  3. Dec 20, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #3
    RiceTaco

    RiceTaco [OP] Member

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    The locks don't work from the inside either. I get the clicks and then nothing. Tried a new battery and no luck.
     
  4. Dec 20, 2013 at 9:07 PM
    #4
    SpruceTaco

    SpruceTaco トヨタ

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    Clearwater, FL
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    Tinted windows 5%, sill protectors, TRD stubby antenna, weathertech in channel rain guards, wheathertech floor mats, BHLM, Truxedo low pro qt, DTRL deleted, anytime backup camera, bed storage locks, fog lights on anytime, tailgate theft deterrent, painted engine cover, relocated horns, l.e.d bed lights, l.e.d engine bay lights, l.e.d lights above cup holders, in glove box, rear cup holder, in console storage & cubby next to steering wheel, Grillcraft grill, 17x8.5 SCS Ray10's, 35x12.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Borla cat back exhaust, map & dome l.e.d's, TEQ badge on grill, Redline tuning hood struts, Maxtrac spindles, SPC Light Racing UCA's, Bilstein 5100's front set at 0 with OME 885's & extended length Bilstein 5100's in the rear, All Pro expedition leaf springs & 2" blocks, extended brake lines front & rear, 1.5" 4crawler drive shaft spacer, Beefed Taco carrier bearing drop, 1.25" spidertrax wheel spacers on rear, Kenwood DNX570 touchscreen with navigation, 30" led light bar in lower bumper opening, 1/4" top plate spacer drivers side, Bullet Proof Fabricating skid plate, Cali Raised ditch lights & Rago f Fabrication brackets, Amp Research power steps, smoked l.e.d 3rd brake light, Wet Okole seat covers, under cab LED'S tied to dome circuit
    Damn that's all I got, sorry I couldn't be more help. The only other thing I can think of is the fuse for the locks but you said you checked it. Maybe someone will chime in that knows more about it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013
  5. Aug 10, 2017 at 9:05 PM
    #5
    DC2NoVA

    DC2NoVA Well-Known Member

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    Just wondering if you ever figured this out as I have the same issue and also an 03 DC.
     
  6. Aug 10, 2017 at 9:13 PM
    #6
    picturethis

    picturethis Well-Known Member

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    Same problem on a 2001
     
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  7. Aug 11, 2017 at 2:07 PM
    #7
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    fuse? but yea an old thread...
     
  8. Aug 13, 2017 at 11:31 AM
    #8
    DC2NoVA

    DC2NoVA Well-Known Member

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    I couldn't find any specific fuses for door locks only. Even after checking all the driver lower dash fuses, I couldn't find any that were blown. After searching around, some said it may be the integration relay. However, for 02+ I couldn't find that specific part so I'm assuming it's part of the entire fuse block. I ordered a used one, P/N 82730-04011 and it should be coming in after a couple weeks. Hopefully it resolves the issue.
     
  9. Aug 27, 2017 at 7:05 PM
    #9
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    Did it fix it? WTF is it called a (singular) Relay for if its the whole damn BOX??? Fuggin Bullshit!
     
  10. Sep 30, 2017 at 7:37 PM
    #10
    DC2NoVA

    DC2NoVA Well-Known Member

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    That wasn't my issue. For whatever reason, the P/O disconnected both the front connections to the door lock actuators. The rear door lock actuators needed replacing. Also be careful when buying a fuse box, they're relatively specific so be sure to check the P/N on yours if you decide to go this route.
     
  11. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:13 AM
    #11
    GPsevinSixx

    GPsevinSixx Well-Known Member

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    Truck of this vintage will likely need new actuator motors. The magnets wear out and die. The ones I pulled from mine had almost no magnetic resistance whine turning the motor shaft once they were out of the actuator housing.
    I just replaced both the front doors on my '99 T4R. The driver one was the worse, while the other three were similarly as bad after 3 lock/ unlock cycles. There are writeups online for the procedure to replace. Mostly T4R forums or yotatech IIRC. I believe the Taco is similar, since the motor application applies to many Toyotas.
     
  12. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:15 AM
    #12
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Supercharged, AEM FIC/6, Meth Inj, ION Alloy's, Radio & Phone steering Wheel controls,Fabtech AAL, Billie's wrapped with 880's , Tundra big brake conversion, bully bars and Pioneer DDin Stereo/dvd with exterrnal usb ports. 290K and going strong.
    TR4 and Tacoma latches are different.
     
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  13. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:16 AM
    #13
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Brie did you ever get yours working?
     
  14. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:01 AM
    #14
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    No, unfortunately I am longsuffering. However my friend did bypass the relay thing or wire harness issue by running a new wire to my modified (always hot) cigg. lighter so my driver window does actually work. Nothing else though. TrucKS are HARD

    (Thank you for asking)
     
  15. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:03 AM
    #15
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    My 2001 is vintage? Geeze, that's harsh! Hahaha
     
  16. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:03 AM
    #16
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Flux Capacitor
    I noticed 2nd Gen 4Runners out of all cars have the same actuator connector - but they're pinned differently so it won't work. I feel like if you repin it it'll work.
     
  17. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:10 AM
    #17
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    My pins are completely different than the repair manual says... I have no idea why, this is the REPAIR MANUAL, it's supposed to know these things! That 1 small detail is what screwed everything up for me.. that and not being able to find this elusive "integration relay" Bullsh*t
     
  18. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:11 AM
    #18
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    How does one "repin it"? Get a whole new switch module thing?
     
  19. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:12 AM
    #19
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Flux Capacitor
    You have the Factory Service Manual or the Haynes manual? The Haynes manual is terrible for reference besides small repairs. You need the Toyota electrical repair manual. I think it's stickied at the top of this forum
     
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  20. Oct 8, 2017 at 10:21 AM
    #20
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    You can repin the 2nd Gen 4Runner actuator to work I think. All you need to do is unlock the connector housing and use a needle to unlock the pin and re-pin it to how the Tacoma system uses it.
     
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