Long Travel BS Thread

Anyone running 35's with a supercharger? I'm curious as to whether my rear end with will go boom w/35's and the extra HP/lockrite.

Order of operation will be:
1.Supercharger/ w/ front bypasses (January 14')
2. 9", 2.5 hubs, 37's (when 35's are done)
3. Cage/Links/custom rack/ tow bitch. (after I finish all the home upgrades for the wifey... 2017ish).

 

Makes me miss my second gen tundra...

 

Needs to backhalf the rear end....

looks badass up front then you get to the rear and........

 

Sam is sc with 35's. no issues.

 

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/tls/4247918837.html

 

I have S/C on 33's and 4.88 gears, not worried about rear end even with the e-locker

gear accordingly should be fine.

 

Woops. Though you were 35s. Im on 33s with 4.88s also. Yet to drive it with the new gears. I still need to track down a flange to go from toyota driveshaft to my 9".

 

http://customdrivelines.com/converter-flanges.htm

 

I've been busy... Don't judge too hard it's not completely done, thanks to my partner in crime bmiller who built the base frame till I got my own mig

 

Mahnigga!

 

Pretty Sure I posted that link for you months ago

As for the stock axle, it all depends on your driving style , sure you can make it last if you cruise around, but if you want to use the supercharger / links to it's potential you'll break that axle pretty quick

 

I dunno man, I thought the same thing but I've been rockin' 150 pound 37's on beadlocks for a long time and haven't broke shit. You guys know me, I'm not easy on it. I got my third from chase at ECGS and he warranties his thirds for up to 35" tires for street use (nobody warrantees race parts for some reason). In the dirt, even a stock 1GR will spin 37's easy with 4.88's, I can't see how having a supercharger would be any harder on them...it might surprise you how long it lasts. It did me.

 

Like I said , all in how you drive and what terrain you're on . Let up on the rough stuff and it might last , or hammer down and have fun an it might break

 

I feel like that applies to everything we all run...except dtf who adds 20lbs to every part he makes hahaha but why not make things beef?? I like his philosophy

 

If you're not breaking parts you probably weren't having enough fun!

 

You did lol. I completely forgot.

 

So what's the consensus as far as smogging with a fuel cell? looking at picking up a new ride that's registered in NV, which shouldn't be a problem swapping it over to CA, except for the fuel cell. What's the deal with that?

more specifically, this http://www.race-dezert.com/classifieds/index.php?ct=orcar&md=details&id=63584

 

If all the evap stuff is hooked up to it, which I doubt it is, you might have a chance to pass , it's all up to the smog inspector

 

Does anyone know a prerunner friendly smogger? The engine will pass smog fine but the fuel cell is the only thing.
And if not, how difficult would it be to throw in a stock tank and evap equipment? or is it pretty complicated

edit: he says evap equipment is not still installed but it passed without it, however "all the hoeses are still there so all you'd have to do is hook the evap hose up to the breather hose while your smogging". Does that make sense?

 

Nevada smog is totally different than California smog. Like previously said, if all the evap equipment is completely installed (same as factory) and the only diffeerence is that its fuel cell instead of fuel tank you have a chance; otherwise you wont pass

And it shouldnt be to hard to reinstall the evap stuff if its included with the truck