Blue Sea Fuse Block Questions

Yeah I think your misunderstanding how a relay works. I relay is basically a way to run high current parts off a standard low current switch just like Rich said. It does not mean you cant use the lights with the truck off. You just have to wire it correctly. I have 5 OTRATTW switches (soon to be 9) in my truck and a Blue Sea Fuse block (12 bank) and every accessory I have is run off relays, except my HAM and CB. They are not messy or complicated if you know what your doing. If you dont, I recommend you seek professional assistance with your wiring. A relay is to protect you, your truck, and your electrical components. Trust us, dont be lazy, just use the relays

 

^^^This, you asked our opinion dude, we're tellin you from experience what's proper and safe, always use the right sized wire, always fuse a new circuit, no matter what it is and always use relays to keep hot loads out of the cab. I have 8 or 9 circuits that I've built in my truck totaling upwards of a 100 amps of draw, even the smallest draw of LED's, the blue ones in my sig pic are fused and on a relay. Fucking up at this level could burn my truck to the ground, even an LED bar's worth of load shorted into something in the cab could start a fire.

 

+1

This was my switch panel in my Duramax...

All of the toggle switch wiring was run from a piece of ethernet cable and a 3a fuse. Made it really easy to run the wiring to the relays, which were housed in a Pelican box mounted to the shell.
Each lighting circuit had its own fuse. The 6 circuits (the 4 100w overhead lights were split between two relays) were split between two 30a runs from the battery on 4ga cable.

 

dude.

I have 7 hella lights on my truck.

3 of them are large rallye 4000

I have 4 always hotpower points in my truck.

they all run on relays. and I have them on with the truck off.

if you dont use a relay, your switches will either melt or your truck will catch on fire.

 

http://www.yotatech.com/f127/wiring-up-auxiliary-lights-2nd-gen-4runner-75274/

 

If you have Prime and the item is Prime eligable, it ships free no matter if it's $0.01 or $10,000...

 

I like that idea, I did all mine one by one so all the switch leads are individual wires running into the cab but I decided to build a simple 12v + and a 12v - bus for the four switches in my center console. I put the 12v+ and 12v- wires on one of the Blue Sea circuits. It simplifies everything and actually keeps everything running off of the Blue Sea block totally separate from the rest of the truck's electrical systems. Eventually the plan is to run a second battery in the bed and have the Blue Sea systems run off of that.

 

Relays it is thanks y'all, does anyone have detailed pics of relay wiring. Do I struggle with electrical you bet your ass so thanks again for helping me out.

 

Good ol Google, dug this up for you, the numbered leads tell you what goes where. It would be wired up the same exact way for your LEDs In the case of using a Blue Sea block, the #30 lead is the hot (+) lead coming from the positive side of the block and the #85 lead is the ground lead (-) coming from the negative side of the block. The #86 is the switch lead coming from the switch, the switch will still need a separate 12v+ source to run if it is lighted as well as it's own ground (-). Then the LED bar will have its hot lead coming from the #87 lead on the relay (red wire on the LED), and the black wire on the LED (-) is to be grounded, it can be grounded anywhere is can be directly contacted to the chassis of the truck (not a painted surface), You can either do it this way or run a ground feed (-) off of the fuse block if you want. You can also use the grounding bolt that your battery uses too. It's on the side of the engine bay right near the battery.

 

Thanks this helps me out alot, relays throw me off. I can wire up lights without it no problem or a whole care stereo something about relays I think I make it more confusting than it should be. But for the switch since it has a light can I run the power source 12v wire from the switch to #30?

 

Yeah I supposed you can do that, as long as it's fused. You could also bus one of the (+) and (-) leads off of the block too and run it thru the firewall with your switch lead. You could also use a fuse jumper on the fuseblock behind the cointray too. Those are mini blade IIRC. Oh wait, you want a constant on right? Just about everything in the cab is switched with the ignition, yeah the easiest would be to pick the constant off the #30 wire lead or run a separate one from the block.I prefer a new lead off the block, since I have plenty of free circuits on the blue sea block, I liked just keeping it separate from the leads going to #30. Since I have four switches in the center console I ran the separate lead off the block and built a simple bus for all the switches off the one lead from the block. It may seem a tick more complicated to do it that way but it's also easier to track down and diagnose problems.The more you can isolate components (the power source for the switch being separate from the power source to the relay), I can figure out if the lights stop working, is it a bulb? is it the switch? is it the relay? Bad connection? Blown fuse? Bad Ground?

 

ok found this

where the hell else can #6 on the switch go I have no factory fog lights and I get that #2 on the switch goes to the cig lighter, but I will have 4 switches wont putting all of them to the cig lighter overload it?

 

NEWBIETACO..

This is what you could do.



You have two options.

1. if you want the little light on the switch to be on ALL the time, then you run wiring straight to the battery, remember to put a fuse on it.

2. if you want the little light to be on ONLY when the lights are on, then you come out of 87 and go back to the connection on the switch that powers the little light.

3. if you want the little light on the switch to be on EVERY time that you turn on your dash lighting (at night), then you run a wire from the connection on the switch that powers the light to your headlight wiring in the cab.

guys, correct me if i am wrong.

 

My switch is tapped into the 12v power outlet behind the dash which is hot when the truck is on and no it doesnt stay illuminated. The switch only recieves power to ligh up when the swith is flipped to the on position. All that does is send power to the relay which opens and allows fused power from the battery to power the lights. The smaller diameter wire in the cab cannot handle the appropriate power without risk of overheating. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/relays.html

 

Option 2 for me thanks for all the help I'm sure ill have more questions when I start wiring.

 

Hehe i made this diagram

 

Just do this.

 

would a stinger circuit breaker be bad to use for a blue sea box? they are $26.00 on Amazon.

$33 Stinger SGP901501 Circuit Breaker 150 AMP with Manual Reset 5.50in. x 4.50in. x 1.90in.

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP90...18520&sr=8-4&keywords=stinger+circuit+breaker

 

Plenty of people have used them I believe but why 200amp?

Only reason I went with 150 amp was it was the same price as the 100amp.

 

I'm going to need it dumbed down a little but with the diagram, more pics or explaining please.