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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Dec 22, 2013 at 11:52 PM
    DIRT YOTA

    DIRT YOTA Aka EL ROJO

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    Cory
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    http://youtu.be/opMP6phbVjU
    One more from same spot. Gonna be adding about 100lbs or so to rear very soon. But would like to have a lil room to move compression tube out more if need be. Hope these lil jumps give an idea of what I'm experiencing.
     
  2. Dec 23, 2013 at 12:29 AM
    JuansTaco

    JuansTaco JuanInAMillion

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    Juan
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    ESB long travel kit, Deaver f67s with DTF 12 inch shackles.
    sweet man saw these on IG. are you going to the superstition trip?
     
  3. Dec 23, 2013 at 1:57 AM
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    Anthony
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    Yeah rear is too stiff and front is too soft. Once we get that sorted out truck should handle great!

    Same jump :D

    euzz_82dbd1cbbbdb7a33def18fefc46d9625ef0c1d13.jpg

    Different day was in much better shape
     
  4. Dec 23, 2013 at 3:45 AM
    tostidos

    tostidos Well-Known Member

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    Chris
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    For the truck? The cheapest helmet with forced air and wired is the HJC AR-10 i just picked up 2 but they are in the 400 range. (cheapest i found)
     
  5. Dec 23, 2013 at 4:37 AM
    lembowski

    lembowski Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I found that one for $315 delivered but I'm not going to spend that much. I wore that one last year at BAP and it was pretty nice. I'm going to get an open faced one like Tyler suggested.
     
  6. Dec 23, 2013 at 7:27 AM
    tacokid09

    tacokid09 it's about the off-road miles

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    yeah jason has you on the right track. Put a twenty for the comp up front and it shouldnt slam as hard. ( wish i couldve got a ride but saturday didnt goes as planned as i though haha )

    As for the rear, im runnin 12/10 and i was going to drop down to 10/8. Something you might want to consider is doing what you said and dropping the comp to 10 and see how it goes. shocks are easy to take apart if that worries you too.
     
  7. Dec 23, 2013 at 7:38 AM
    SoCaltaco65

    SoCaltaco65 Well-Known Member

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    I don't think you're going to find a wired motorsports helmet much cheaper Matt, used perhaps. Bell or Simpsons are cheap and in my experience are junk.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2013
  8. Dec 23, 2013 at 8:00 AM
    lembowski

    lembowski Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I'm not worried about it being wired for right now. This is just a temp place holder until I'm ready to do the comm system down the road.
     
  9. Dec 23, 2013 at 8:03 AM
    SoCaltaco65

    SoCaltaco65 Well-Known Member

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    Understood, you could always adapt whatever choice you make with a chatter box system.
     
  10. Dec 23, 2013 at 8:19 AM
    lembowski

    lembowski Well-Known Member

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  11. Dec 23, 2013 at 1:56 PM
    FBGW01

    FBGW01 Well-Known Member

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    check my build
    Speaking of valving, I rebuilt and revalves my foxs in the rear with an #80 for comp and #30 for rebound. The rebound is about right, could stiffen it up so it don't droop as quick, but the compression on the other hand is Wayyyy to soft. I have the old shims still, no clue what they are but the compression was stiffer for sure. Any ideas on what I should do? I'm running 200psi in them
     
  12. Dec 23, 2013 at 2:05 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Judging valving based on jumps really isn't the right approach...unless you're just building for huckfest.

    I'd put a smaller flutter up front in the coils and definitely use 20's on comp/rebound.
    The rear is too hard to tell just based on a single jump. Not only that the fact that you're bouncing so much up front it will inadvertently make the rear handle differently. I like making one change at a time. Making a bunch of changes at once is just rolling dice. Fix the front and give it another shot. Can use small zip ties on the shock shaft to see how much shaft you're using.
     
  13. Dec 23, 2013 at 2:11 PM
    Easy rider

    Easy rider Well-Known Member

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    Anyone interested in my rear end (4:88's (Nitro gears) and a locrite) only 5k miles on it total (3k miles w/ the upgrades)...I might have it up for sale soon.
     
  14. Dec 23, 2013 at 2:30 PM
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    How much? I'm thinking 37s soon :D

    EDIT: shit it's prob a 8.4
     
  15. Dec 23, 2013 at 2:34 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    Not an 8.0 with a locrite in there. haha
     
  16. Dec 23, 2013 at 3:07 PM
    Easy rider

    Easy rider Well-Known Member

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    Yeah its an 8.4.
     
  17. Dec 23, 2013 at 3:20 PM
    uscg2008

    uscg2008 Well-Known Member

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  18. Dec 23, 2013 at 3:49 PM
    Redgrom

    Redgrom http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

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    How much are you thinking?
     
  19. Dec 23, 2013 at 4:45 PM
    Easy rider

    Easy rider Well-Known Member

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    Ended up waiting on the rear end and just bought some bypasses(front), bumps(rear), sport color matched grill and new lighting. I'll wait on the 9" til something goes boom or until the time comes for links.
     
  20. Dec 23, 2013 at 5:07 PM
    DIRT YOTA

    DIRT YOTA Aka EL ROJO

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    Cory
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    Ya a lil worried cuz never done it :)
    Ya was gonna do the front first then hit superstition meet and see how it does. I am adding some weight to the rear soon too so that may help a bit. Through the whoops it just felt a lil on the harsh side in rear, front to soft but still did ok. But like u said with the front acting like it does....think it's pretty close just needs a tad less compression so I have a lil room to adjust based off terrain. Really want it dialed for hauling through good sized whoops, but I will be hucking this piece too.

    So 20 comp n rebound and 12 or 10 flutter (like u stated earlier) so wut woulda 12 flutter be compared to a 10 flutter? 10 a tad softer?

    Sorry guys I know for many it's pretty basic common knowledge, but not for me....at least not yet.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2013

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