Terrible MPG

Well that was also with a can of fuel injector in it.

 

Looks like it worked out. Did you choose a different octane, also what injector cleaner did you go with?

 

Well I just went it 87. Not exactly sure on the brand just snagged one at turkey hill, but now the trucks 2 weeks old and has a maintenance required light on it.

 

I just drove from VA to IN today. 700 miles. Averaged right at 16 mpg on the first couple tanks through the mountains. 14 mpg on the final tank! Wtf?! I don't have armor or a lead foot either.

 

I found that cruise control seemed to work the best.

 

I get any where from 17-21 mpgs.
That's just your oil change reminder. If you just changed the oil you can turn it off your self.

 

Is the reset button the one underneath the steering wheel?

 

Why would you run fuel injector cleaner through a 2 week old truck?

 

Because a few people suggested it? It was 3 bucks why is that such a problem.

 

That is for the TPMS pressure level.

Air your tires down to about 5psi below where you normally run. Follow the directions in the owner's manual to reset the TPMS system.
After resetting, bring pressure back up to normal.
The TPMS will activate if any tire drops below the set point, or if there is more than 10psi difference between any two tires.

The maintenange required light is simply the oil change reminder and it comes on every 5,000 miles.
After an oil change (whether the light is on or not)
With the truck and key off, tap the odometer button to cycle to the main ODO display.
Press and hold the button with one hand, while turning the key to "on" with the other hand. Continue holding the button until the display has completed it's little "dance" with the series of dashes.
Shut the key off, restart, and the light should be off.

 

thats for your tire monitors. kill the battery

 

It's not needed, especially if you are using quality fuel on a newer vehicle.
It's like oil additives... there is no good reason to use it, it will not do any good, and many additives can cause harm.
75% of the stuff they sell in auto parts stores on the chemical rack are "quick fixes" that help used car dealers hold an old tired engine together long enough to sell it.

Fuel additives that claim to improve fuel economy flat out don't work, or if they do, the improvement is not enough to offset the cost of the additive. The FTC is constantly getting products pulled, but it's "Whack-A-Mole" with new products popping up to replace those pulled... often the same people under a new dba.

Oil additives are either thickeners that help slow leaks and reduce oil consumption, thinners and solvents that are intended to remove sludge (which will not be present in a properly maintained engine), PTFE additives that claim to reduce friction, extend life, and improve economy, or zinc additives that claim to compensate for the reduced ZDDP levels in modern oil.
Problem is, you are not going to properly blend a ZDDP additive in your driveway.
DuPont actually refused to sell Teflon to Slick-50, publicly stating that PTFE was not designed to be used in the lubrication system of an engine, and that it will NOT bond to or coat the engine components. DuPont lost the lawsuit filed by Slick-50. The judge said that Slick-50 could use a product they purchase any way they wanted to so long as they did not infringe on DuPont's trademarks... they just can't call the stuff "Teflon" or claim that it is a DuPont product... so now we have "PTFE" waxes and polishes that likewise don't do anything but lighten your wallet.

All items pull the oil out of its designed weight range and blend characteristics and are not condoned by manufacturers.

It's not 1965 anymore. Fuel and oil quality is much higher than it used to be. Engine tolerances are better, and modern emissions equipment also helps keep the fuel and lubrication system cleaner by reducing external contamination.

There is a lot of snake oil out there, and a lot of people buy into it and recommend it to others.
All you really need to do is outlined in the owner's manual. You can clean the throttle body every 50k or so, and the MAF may need cleaning if you spend a lot of time off-road, but the factory filter will generally protect it, unless you switch to K&N, then all bets are off.

Seriously... we end up seeing more threads with someone talking about having cleaned their TBI or MAF and now they have a CEL and the truck doesn't run right than we see people doing those things and getting an improvement.

 

Why does everyone suggest this when it will only clear the CEL if the fault has been cleared... and if the fault has been cleared, most times it will shut off on its own.
Disconnecting the battery is rarely needed. It is needed as a safety step when performing some work on the engine or electrical system, and it may be needed to "reboot" the ECU after performance bolt-ons have been installed, but other than that, the CEL is on because the computer sensed a problem. If the problem wasn't fixed, the light will come back on.

But disconnecting the battery is not the way to reset the maintenance required light.

 

I've found that a good high pressure gas shock (Bilstein) has helped fuel economy quite a bit over the low pressure black shocks that were on my truck, originally. A light weight alloy wheel would be a nice upgrade, too.

The only way to get fuel economy is to stay off the throttle, IMO.

 

Man I thought I was the only one.
Before the suspension(Kings) and dweaver springs and tires (285/75/r16) I was only getting about 16 highway. Now after using gas cubby. I'm getting about 14

I don't even have a lead foot.

 

I couldn't have said it any better.

 

I know 2 mistakes people make with gas mileage. First is leaving the windshield defroster on all the time. This runs your ac compressor and kills your gas mileage. Second is larger tires. If you run larger tires and don't have your speedometer recalibrated you are traveling farther than your odometer says. I went to 265/75 R16s and my mileage dropped to 15-16 from around 17-18. Also in the north winter blend gasoline will drop your mileage even more, so don't bother checking in the winter.

 

20.2 on the Highway yesterday..

With armor front and HC rear, skids and a bed rack..

2.7 and 255s, with 4.88s

 

If you have the defrost on your ac is on? I didn't know this. I use it all the time here because I need it. I might have to try something different.

 

i can run defrost separately in my 96