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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Dec 30, 2013 at 10:20 AM
    amaes

    amaes [OP] Cuz Stock Sucks

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    I don't have any scrap right now so driving the 1 mile to HF from my office is cheaper and faster lol

    HF is 4 miles from my house
    SDHQ is 7 miles
    Industrial Metal Supply is 10 miles.
     
  2. Dec 30, 2013 at 11:58 AM
    shawnphoto

    shawnphoto Well-Known Member

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    sweet ill hit him up!

    lol yeah theyre kinda overkill

    They do not have pressure but i charged them up to 150 psi only to have one bubble from under the cap and the other not move, even after a few taps with a mallet. I hope its not clogged ports cause that would mean something fucked up bad inside, I'm calling FOA today and depending on what they say ill either open em up or hopefully just send them back for replacement, the only thing i can think of is a seized wear ring or clogged piston ports but either one is pretty shitty to deal with.
    Thats exactly the tool i was looking for! stoked harbor freight has it. Thanks man!
     
  3. Dec 30, 2013 at 1:07 PM
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Ha

    FOA has had alot of Quality problems, if you contact them they might fix them for free
     
  4. Dec 30, 2013 at 1:14 PM
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    measure the thickness of each coil X total number of coils in spring = block height.

    measure total length of coil un-compressed - block height = spring travel.

    if: spring travel > travel, then no binding.

    When you crank down preload, you need to subtract the number of inches you compressed coil.

    spring travel - # of inches of preload cranked = new spring travel.

    if: new spring travel < shock travel = binding.

    Now go grab some a caliper, a pencil, and a note pad and get to work!
     
  5. Dec 30, 2013 at 1:44 PM
    jeffz0rz

    jeffz0rz Well-Known Member

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    you lost him at measure.
     
  6. Dec 30, 2013 at 1:49 PM
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    I PM'd you back on that. I'm running a 1/2" spacer to clear the calipers.
     
  7. Dec 30, 2013 at 3:03 PM
    Brian007Taco

    Brian007Taco 007Taco

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    That's sick!
     
  8. Dec 30, 2013 at 3:04 PM
    Emtmeyer

    Emtmeyer Angrytaco

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    :rofl:
     
  9. Dec 30, 2013 at 3:11 PM
    shawnphoto

    shawnphoto Well-Known Member

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    called the bastards at FOA.. no answer after being stuck on hold. no wonder people go fox/king, idk why people even buy these things. guess its time to open them up, will keep posted...
     
  10. Dec 30, 2013 at 3:27 PM
    jeffz0rz

    jeffz0rz Well-Known Member

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  11. Dec 30, 2013 at 4:38 PM
    shawnphoto

    shawnphoto Well-Known Member

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    thanks jeff
    i called them a few more times and finally got ahold of someone, ill be sending them back to them for a free rebuilding and troubleshooting, save shipping. i think that the bump can might be slightly warped, cause those mofo's are really in there. how would one go about boring out a bump can, assuming it is indeed warped?
     
  12. Dec 30, 2013 at 4:41 PM
    jeffz0rz

    jeffz0rz Well-Known Member

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    heat it up, and pound in a piece of .250 wall 2" tubing.
     
  13. Dec 30, 2013 at 4:41 PM
    linked2002

    linked2002 Well-Known Member

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    Send the can back as well. If you can't..... An engine cylinder hone and a whole lotta time will make the inside very smooth and bore it a few thousandths maybe.


    Or the BFH method above if you want faster results. Just ensure to bevel the edges of the tube so you don't end up leaving burrs that will gouge your bump body
     
  14. Dec 30, 2013 at 4:47 PM
    shawnphoto

    shawnphoto Well-Known Member

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    yeah cant remove the can, its built half way into the frame and boxed in with tube. sounds like jeffs solution might be my best bet, I don't think they're too warped but i dont know if a cylinder hone will be enough. anyone have any .250wall 2.5" laying around i could borrow at some point this week?

    edit: also, any tips for removing the bumpstops from cans when theyre super stuck.. already sprayed penetrant, started smacking on them with a 3lb sledge and a piece of wood on top and its starting to go, but i figure there might be a smarter method out there
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2013
  15. Dec 30, 2013 at 5:44 PM
    username

    username Fluffer

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    You mean .250 wall 2.5" right? Spread the cans open a little, they will fall out. I remove the bolts and just slide a small wedge punch in there. That way it won't gnarf the bumps.
     
  16. Dec 30, 2013 at 6:37 PM
    shawnphoto

    shawnphoto Well-Known Member

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    Yah i removed the bolts then pounded them open a little bit, but the cans are literally smack dab through the frame, then have tube connecting into it from each side. this leaves like 1/4" of the can sticking out unboxed (if that makes sense), where it can be peeled open, but most the can is still tight. and yes .250 wall 2.5", ill edit that my bad
     
  17. Dec 30, 2013 at 7:26 PM
    davidjmay

    davidjmay Well-Known Member

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  18. Dec 30, 2013 at 11:10 PM
    jeffz0rz

    jeffz0rz Well-Known Member

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    Just go to the supply yard and buy a foot and a half of that 2.5 tube. You could put rags on top of the bumps, and pound that tube on top. Should push the can out.
     
  19. Dec 30, 2013 at 11:13 PM
    jeffz0rz

    jeffz0rz Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] had to buy lights to get the ball rolling.
     
  20. Dec 30, 2013 at 11:28 PM
    davidjmay

    davidjmay Well-Known Member

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