Official Dual Sport BS Thread

Case splitter? First you're gonna need a puller to get the flywheel off of it. And a hammer works to get cases apart

 

And make sure all of the cables and wires are run correctly

 

a little update...i didn't have much time to mess with it today as i was / am hung over
i am not getting any younger
\but i did check the float level height'...i attached a hose to the drain and opened the screw and let it equalize..stood bike up level and VVV


now bike ran great fires right up with a blip of the starter
i raised the idle a bit....
unsure how fast as i don't have a way to check until i hook up the vapor unit,,
it seems a little better but is still a problem....
also bike will die out as soon as i lean it to the right
not to the left only to the right......
hmmm whats that about....

i installed the cs seal retainer.....after forgetting were i placed it the day before....


is this normal wear? on the sprocket
i plan on getting new gearing and chain shortly

and the new axle nut.......
flat side in i guess?????

is this the correct location for the ground wire?
i was unsure when i installed it but seems to work just fine.....

 

ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING TO SAY ABOUT THE TUSK CRANK PULLER / INSTALLER
AND THE CASE SPLITTER
AND CLUCTH / FLYWHEEL REMOVAL WRECH....
I CAN GET ALL 3 FOR $140
THOUGHTS
ITS HAS GREAT REVIEWS ALL OVER ONLINE....AND ON OTHER FOURMS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Crank-...or-Splitter-Tool-Motorcycle-ATV-/300841014939

 

Your sprocket looks fine, they become "shark finned" when worn.

Like so:



Yes flat side in on the axle nut.

And ground location shouldn't matter as long as it's a good ground.

I've had really good luck with Tusk stuff but I haven't tried that particular tool.

 

i should have took another pic of the front of sprocket as it was not shinny like the rear part

yea for the price and reviews i think i am going to go for the tusk tools.....

 

anyone have heated grips?
how too's
recommendations

 

I'm jealous! I bought heated grips for my bike but the sport bike clips prevented me from being able to install them. Heated grips would be a nice addition.

 

sure would
i was just happy to be out riding again.......
still need to rebuild the carb or i might rejet it.....
then there is always a pumper carb.....
then the new motor build

 

I was riding my brother's bike while he was deployed. The heated grips on it were AWESOME!

I know, I know, I live in Phoenix, why the hell would I need heated grips?!? Well, ridding in in the morning would be in the 30s in the winter. Even with winter gloves, my fingers would start to get uncomfortable. Flip on the heated grips.... BAM! pure awesomeness.

 

I'm sold on pumper carbs. I can wheel my XR out of the garage after sitting for 4+ months, twist the throttle twice, and it comes alive with one kick.

 

YEA PUMPER CARD FOR $500 IS LOOKING BETTER AND BETTER AS WE SPEAK
DUDE ON ANOTHER FORUM SELLS CARB PARTS AND I JUST WANTED TO REDO MY STOCK CARB AND RE-DUE THE JETTING AND THIS IS THE LIST OF q'S I GET
JUST ABOUT MADE MY HEAD IMPLODE.......

MIND YOU I TOLD HIM IT WAS A STOCK CARB NO MODS.... AND WHAT WAS DONE TO EXHAUST AND INTAKE.......
AND I ALSO TOLD HIM I WOULD WANT ALL SEALS AND O RINGS ECT....

There are six depressions in the face of the slide guide. Four of these are round. If the round ones are no longer visible, there is no need to look any further, the slide guide and emulsion tube are worn out. There are two more depressions that look like little parallelograms concentric to the bore adjacent to where the slide bottoms. These depressions are .020" (.51 mm) deep when the slide guide is new. Emulsion tube wear sets in somewhere between .010" (.25 mm) depth and flush, and causes overly rich mixtures in the lower portion of the rpm range (see http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=298 & http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=299 vs. http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=300 & http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=301). How deep are these depressions now?

Is there any vertical grooving on the downstream side of the slide (see http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=302 vs. http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=304)? Has the slide lift hole have been enlarged (they normally measure 2.5 mm in diameter) or an extra one been drilled?

Is the jet needle worn?

Is white jet needle spacer notched, d-shaped, otherwise worn on the bottom edge or loose on the jet needle?

Has the slide spring been clipped (one end of the windings will be open)?

Is the head of the bowl drain screw stripped?

Is the cold start enrichment plunger retainer stripped?

Is the fuel filter in good condition?

What does the filtration on the under-diaphragm carb vent consist of?

Regards,

Derek

 

Sounds like he's OCD. Jetting a 4 stroke is a pain in the ass. They're too right to pull the bowl off while it's still on the intake boot

 

I can pull whole carb out in about 2 minutes literally
With no special tools
Any advise???
By the end of this i will hopefully be able to dissemble and reassemble an entire engine from crank on up
But we shall see
For now i will start by getting my bike back street worthy

I just ordered and short carb mounted choke lever as i think this is one if my problems

As bike will stall if tilted to right
And in hard braking
Also i have to check float level this weekend

 

Did you put a bigger cam in it?

 

Nope just swapped out and old motor for an older old motor stock
As per posts ABOVE^^^^^^

 

And used the old carb?

 

Search the ADVrider classifieds. Pumper carbs pop up for sale frequently. With DRs being pretty popular, I'd imagine one will pop up in the near future. Or, just ask under the DR650 thread with more DR650 experts then you could ever imagine.

I've snagged three carbs from ADV for pretty good prices.

 

Here you go..... 5700 pages of DR650.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135295&page=5713

Someone in there is guaranteed to be able to point you in the right direction for the DR.

 

yes

yes thanks
im there already