Flared wrenches

I'm soon going to be replacing my front brake lines with wheelers lines. Are flare wrenches necessary for the lines and if so what size and brand should I get?

 

Highly recommended. Otherwise you will have to use the open end of a normal wrench and risk either not being able to break the bolt loose and or stripping the bolt.

Size -- Probably 10mm.

Brand doesn't really matter what you can get locally.

 

+1

Very, very, very good idea.

Also, soak the ends with penetrating oil 24 hours before trying to remove them.

 

Avoid cheap Chinese shit from HF, Sears, or Autozone. Get some decent flare nut wrenches or you will break your wrench or the fittings. In thus case, brand does matter.

 

Absolutely.

 

Big time ditto.

 

And on a 2002, breaking the fittings is a real possibility anyways.
It's not the rust belt, but I've rounded them here in CA after less than 12 years.

Plan the job for a time when you have the ability to obtain replacements.

 

How would you replace the fittings? Are you talking about banjo bolt and the connection between the hard line and rubber line connect?

 

What brand do you recommend?

 

Mac Tools and Snap On are the good brands. However they are quite expensive (over $200 for a set).
http://store.snapon.com/Double-End-mm-chrome-Set-Wrench-Metric-Flare-Nut-Double-End-6-Point-6-pcs-9-to-21-mm--P630591.aspx
http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/product/tabid/120/p-320033-7-pc-metric-6-point-15-offset-combination-flare-nut-open-end-wrenches.aspx

IMO a set of no-name flare wrenches are still better than conventional open-end wrenches.

 

If you're lucky, the flats round off and you can still break it loose with a pair of Vise-Grips. At that point, just replace the screwed up hard line or bolt.

If you aren't lucky, it's so frozen that it snaps off flush with the female part and you've got a major project... either replace the expensive part, or extract it (and pray the extractor doesn't break).

Murphy's Law = Extractors are the hardest substance known to man.

 

I've never broken a craftsman tool working on any of my cars so as long as your using the right tool for the job it doesn't always have the be the most expensive brand.

 

+1

Craftsman isn't what they were 20 years ago, but they are still very good.
Likewise, I trust (and use) Kobalt (Lowe's) and Husky (Home Depot).

 

Ok fellas thanks for the info. Don't want to spend big money on tools that are going to sit in my box. As far as I can tell the fittings look good for being 11 years, will use liquid wrench and more than likely craftsman flare nut wrenches.

 

Get the wrenches...I have a set of craftsman professional flare nut wrenches, and they are well finished and polished to boot. These are made in the USA. (PN 942013). I know some of their tools are now Chinese and I hate that, so I usually only get them if made in USA. That said their warranty still stands. Don't buy their torque wrenches though. Been through two. Going to try CDI Torque.

madeintheusa.com

 

The 'truck' brands are going to be expensive. So avoid them unless you plan on using them for work or you can find a used set on CL or something. Otherwise, get a mid level brand - USA craftsman, williams, SK, or Blue Point (economy price Snap On) among other options.

Our fittings are 14mm, so if you must, you can get one individual flare nut wrench off eBay or Amazon.

 

Alternatively,

You can use good quality combination wrenches, but you have to be very very careful and make sure you use penetrating oil before hand.

 

Of the 20 or so 1st gen racks I have dealt with, all were 17mm.
A good tip is to remove all the clamps for the lines so the rack can be pulled back a bit allowing for better placement and straighter "pull" on the wrench.
Heck on my truck I cut in a super high pressure steel compression coupler in the pressure line out close to the radiator. 20 minutes and my rack is on the bench and I can deal with the flair nuts like a gentleman with no cussing.

With all the flame on the cheap stuff (myself included) I will say the best fitting and strongest (resistant to deflection) flair wrenches I have ever used are a set of HF crows foot.

10mm high pressure steel compression coupler, Mcmaster Carr

 

When I know I'm replacing the line, I just cut the line. Then use a box end wrench to work the fitting. Tapping the wrench, alternately, clockwise then counter-clockwise will normally free it up.

 

This guy has a sick deal for the Mac line wreches:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230718

$40.

OP, jump on it, dude.