Home Improvement Today?

They make cap nails / cap screws designed to attach styrofoam to exterior plywood

 

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/video-how-install-rigid-foam-insulation-outside-house

http://building.dow.com/na/en/tools/installations/newconstruct.htm

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weathe...ith_Exterior_Foam_Sheathing_Tech_Bulletin.pdf

http://youtu.be/12DvyHjqu4Y

 

Not the foam..already used the orange cap guns on that. This hardi siding is what I am worried about .

 

I'm assuming we are talking rigid foam and not spray, and from the mention of siding I'm assuming either small office or residential? (just curious.. I mainly work on larger commercial/residential buildings and highrises)

Anyways, I've always seen the wrap directly on the substrate in a cavity type system. i.e. from interior out, sheathing/substrate>air/vapor barrier>rigid foam>siding/masonry facade. I'm not a big fan of just taping seams as well because it doesn't prevent moisture or air from entering through other penetrations or gaps. some form of house wrap or sheet membrane would be needed at some point between the substrate and siding, and theoretically shouldn't make much of a difference as to where, but applying to a solid substrate is much easier and more effective (imo) than trying to apply to a rigid foam.

Like I said, I don't usually do smaller residential, but I would think that a housewrap should be in place between the foam and sheathing (in which case taping seams should theoretically be fine and probably not required). Straight up between house wrap and taping seams though my vote would be for a wrap/sheet membrane.


Edit-- I just re-read that and I'm not even sure if I answered your question at all lol I think I may have confused myself a little but I'm not really sure how else to explain what I'm thinking.

 

I'd assume there should be some sort of wall tie that they can attach to. I've never worked first hand with siding, but I know for brick/stone masonry and curtain wall systems there are ties that screw into the sheathing and are punched through the rigid foam for the facade system to attach to.

 

I will be perfectly honest will you, is should go on...well.l.just like old siding...but who knows..I may void the warranty.

 

I'm talking about 1" foam over the wall sheathing , tape the seams in the styro , then housewrap over the foam , strapping over the housewrap as a vented rainscreen , then the siding attached to the strapping

 

haha I gotcha.

These may help some.

http://risinger.blogspot.com/2013/02/exterior-rigid-foam-w-modern-hardie.html

http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/technical-bulletins/19-jh-over-advanced-framing-or-continuous-insulation.pdf

If I'm understanding the concern correctly it is that you're not sure how to attach the siding over the insulation? from those links above, it seems to me that you should have: substrate>house wrap such as Tyvek>rigid insulation>furring attached to the substrate through the insulation via screw fasteners>siding attached to the fasteners via siding nails.

In the end, if you're really worried about voiding warranties give the siding manufacturer's tech service a call and explain the situation. They should be able to sort it all out for you and tell you what will be within warranty and what will void. Just make sure that if you do, you get their detail in writing whether it is a .pdf or email or something. Youll want it in case they try to void the warranty somewhere down the road and claim that it was a "unique condition" that has a special detail.

 

That should work as long as it is lapped properly and you have a proper termination at the head of the wall area. Personally, I would like to see the housewrap between the sheathing and foam, but as long as you can ensure there is no path for water to infiltrate behind the wrap at any point higher, it should work.

I think it'll be fine either way in the long run however.. there are going to be inherent infiltration paths that need to be accounted for no matter what.

 

Oh mighty home builder/repair folks....

What would be the best way to repair a shower stall drain (under a concrete slab floor) where the drain was not installed in the correct position. It's over about a half the drain, from where it should be. (i don't know all the proper verbage of the plumbing pieces/parts) There is a lot of water in the area. Can't move the shower stall over, so what would be the best way to get the water from the shower into the drain? Without having to dig up the concrete and move the drain... there is about a 1 ft square opening in the concrete.

http://s529.photobucket.com/user/ImpulseRed008/media/IMG_20140104_234913.jpg.html

 

So the drain wasn't installed in the correct location causing the water to pond up where the hole in the photo is? (Or did I misunderstand the problem? Lol I'm tired and my brain doesn't want to work)

If so, I would think it's be a pretty straight forward fix. Pump out the water from the hole, patch the hole with concrete, and then use leveling compound/mortar to re-slope the floor towards the drain. If you'd want to get a little over zealous and protect the concrete and leveling compound topping slab, you could apply a deck coating like Dow Allguard or Tremco Vulkem. They're a little pricey but are easy to install and work really well. they are silicone slab coatings usually used on exterior balconies and parking garages.. Come in a bunch of colors and can be textured so they act as a non slip surface as well.

But if I understood the question correctly I'd think you could get away with patching the hole and just re-sloping the floor with a leveling compound. Only potential problem would be if there is a door that swings inward and clearance would need to be taken in consideration.

 

Susan , if you mean you have removed a fiberglass shower stall and discovered the drain from the stall and the pipe in the ground don't align , you need to move the drain in the ground , dependind on the piping layout , you may be able to do this without removing any additional concrete

 

You will need to dig down to where the vertical piece ties into the horizontal sanitary line and determine which whay it runs. This will give you an answer if its possible, which it looks like it should. You may need to chip a bit out on the left where it was already started.
You'll have to expose all the way around the horizontal run and pray that the horizontal line is PVC, snapping a cast iron pipe in tight places like that is a pain.
Also make sure there is a trap put in there so that you dont get odors coming back up into the stall.
Once it is done I would back fill to the bottom of the slab with 3/4" stone, tamp it down for compaction and when you pour back the concrete make sure it is sloped to the drain. You can accomplish that by setting the drain 1/8" to 1/4" lower than the surrounding level of concrete.

 

In other words , call a plumber

 

It's actually my son's house... he didn't cut the concrete, he just dug some dirt out to see how wet it was. Have to move the drain in the ground, it doesn't match up with the drain hole in the shower pan (sorry, wasn't very clear about the issue )

exactly the issue.... That's what I was thinking

not sure he's up to that, but will let him make the call. Thanks.

That's what I was thinking....

 

Found out this morning that the one outlet in my garage my compressor is plugged into is tied into my kitchen outlets....WTF???? There are probably 10 outlets around the garage....All the others are fine. one outlet...In the middle of the garage is different.....

The dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwave are on one circuit. My wife was running the dishwasher, microwaving a Jimmy Dean biscuit....I went out and checked the tire pressure and was adding air to a few tires. Compressor kicked on and then died. She came out and told me everything shut off. Its the only outlet in the garage tied into the same circuit.....WTF was the previous homeowner thinking???

I hate fixing other ppls mistakes.

 

...could it be one branch is 20A (for large appliances) and the other is 15A (general purpose)..?