CLOSED - The Retrofit Source GB

Dang, this scares me haha Haven't had any issues, yet.

 

Aren't you lucky.lol

 

Yours are orange, they probably work fine lol

 

You say that

 

I stand corrected....

 

I was upset but you know it is what it is. I got over it

 

At least I can kinda understand why yours went out since they were all in series.

 

Ya I just don't get why tho

 

The pic is a little hard to see what isn't covered.

The black stuff is usually referred to as potting material. It is a waterproofing agent. I removed the case off of one of my SS units to look around at. There is one component that is heat synced to the housing, but this is done on the back side of the board through a thermal pad (white thermally conductive square). They appear to be made by a company called CANBUS, or at least, that is what is printed on the circuit board.

As far as flickering, I have only noticed very faint flickering during warm up. They are not anything like one of my SS ballasts that flickered like a candle all the time. I've tested these down to about 15 deg F.

I did have one of the new DSP's start acting weird. After about a week of working fine, I start getting one that starts igniting but then after being on from anywhere to 2 seconds to about 30 seconds, would go out. I eventually tried a mod Andrew told me about, which was removing the D2S connector from the bulb, and using a small screw driver, pushing the center pin contact edges inwards to form a tighter circle when it goes on the pin. I noticed a small amount of black carbon build up on the points of the contact, which probably explains why it was working for a while, until the arcing built up enough carbon deposits to make a bad connection. If you're having igniting issues, I'd try this fix first. It seems like either some of the bulbs (mine are Phillips) have slightly smaller center pins, or these D2S connectors TRS uses aren't made with great precision.

My only disappointment comes from the fact I can't start my truck with the headlights on. It's not normally a problem for a single trip, but if you're going to several places at night, it's annoying to remember to turn your headlights off and on again. I never had this problem with the SS ballasts.

 

You cant see the shape of what's not covered? Also I did say bottom right. If its easier to tell its what's only showing were the paper/cloth cover is peeled back...

 

There is also zero warranty if you buy them second-hand. Just want to make sure everyone knows that.

How much effort did it take to open that ballast? It looks like you almost destroyed it, so it's safe to say this won't cause any issues. I haven't had water penetrate a Morimoto ballast in approximately 2 years now and none in the newer case style. Keep in mind that's about 60,000 pieces of ballasts worldwide.

If you have any persistent issues, EMAIL or CALL us please so we can resolve them. Posting on here only goes so far when we have 1,000 emails to look at otherwise and may not be able to get over here as often as we'd like.

 

Emailed. Halo did not light properly again this morning, flicker is much worse and one ballast didn't fire at all.

 

We'll take care of it here in the next few working days. Trying to play catch up.

 

Anyone?

 

Not a lot of effort was needed. Then again i did use a flat head to get to actually open. And destroyed well yes it is I cut the wires on it. lol I didn't do anything to that ballast bit open it up and see what's inside and that's what I found. I was just curious if the filler inside not covering all the components could be causing issues that's all.

 

All kits are being held until we have new ballasts later this week to early next week. It's also listed on the kit pages.

 

The potting material in no way effects the performance of ballasts and only has to do with waterproofing.

 

OK cool. Just wanted to check with you on that.

 

It looks like it's covered to me, just not completely filling the housing. The idea is that all parts are coated with the potting, doesn't have to be completely filling the housing. Looks good to me, we used a similar potting compound on the electric motor controllers that I built when working for a trolling motor company. Good for waterproofing, but stinks if you have to do any rework.

 

That's all I was wondering. I didn't know if the components needed to be completely covered evenly of not.