If your alternator cries....

If your alternator whines pretend it's your girl ...err scratch that - actually pay attention. Mine just started to whine two days ago and it already gave up the ghost today. The minute your battery light comes on if your alternator is whining get home or to a shop fast ! When the voltage dropped all the electrics went to complete sh*t and my Taco turned into a F.O.R.D instantly. The ECU didn't have enough juice to tell the engine how to function anymore and the sound was horrid...i mean seriously f'd ! anybody else miss their 85' 22r ?

110,000k with zero previous symptoms, it may have been making noise longer and I could not hear it over the intake and exhaust tones ?

 

I wanted to find out what ya'lls voltage reads on the 2.7 tacos? Is 13.6 at idle and 13.75 at 2k rpm with no load ok or do you read the typical 14.2 that I'm accustomed to seeing on every other vehicle?

Can a failing battery cause enough drag on a belt (yeah, its a dayco) with a weak tensioner to cause squeal in cold weather? Its like a perfect storm. I've never had the lights dim or any batter light but when I put that new one in today, it was like I got a ton of throttle repsonse back and the auto slushbox shifted so much better. The squeal nearly went away.

I've got a gates tensioner, belt, and idler pulley on the way from rockauto. I'm trying to figure out if I should replace the alt for good measure, but its expensive for the cheap-o ones and I'd rather not needlessly spend the money. I guess I'll know for sure after I replace the pulleys and belt.

Thanks
J

 

How much $$ for this alternator you speak of?

 

200 ducats + 60 core from OttoZone. Its supposed to be a Denso reman, but I dont know if there is anywhere around here I can get mine rebuilt if thats even worth it. Even Rockauto is 240+.

 

My dumb, this is a 2009 taco base, auto, 2wd. I have a stereo and an Infinity Basslink (nothing major, internally amped/regulated).

 

Replacing the battery was going to happen, it needed to be done. I wish I had thought of this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuumBVz6WOM

So, turn everything on at idle and see if it dips below 12v at idle. Thats a good quick glance at the alternator performance.

 

I'd install the new belt, and tensioner if needed, then check the voltage again with the new battery installed. Charging system tests are only accurate with a good battery anyway.

 

Found this too. Looks like its hinting at the alt constant is 13.5v, which means I'm good.
Hope this helps people in the future.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2140792&cc=1442969

I was wrong about Rockauto, the reman Denso is 155 after core return.

 

I usually read about 13.6 - 13.7 on the Ultragauge while running down the road.

 

Good to know, thanks! That Ultragauge looks pretty slick and a lot cheaper than a scangauge.

 

The vehicle charging output voltage will vary depending on the State-of-Charge of your health battery, electrical load, RPM and temperature. In the Absorption phase of battery charging (the last 20%), the voltage will be higher (typically in the 14.2VDC range). As the resistance increases in the battery, it drops to what as know as a float voltage (typically in the 13.6-13.7 range) used to maintain the battery at a full charge. A much better way to determine if the battery is receiving current from the charging system is with an ammeter is series with the battery.

If you undercharge your battery by making short trips (less than five miles) or infrequently use of your vehicle, periodically (like once a month) fully recharging your battery with an external battery charger will significantly increase the service life of your battery. The reason is that it will impede the gradual buildup of lead sulfate crystals on the battery's plates. Checking the AC ripple and the total current output (under a heavy load) at the alternator will tell you if the alternator is healthy.