Long Travel BS Thread

Sweet seats. I think I have to go that direction. My bolsters are too high. Tough getting in and out.

 

That is a fanfuckingtastic cage man. Props to whomever your fabricator is!

I just swapped in heimed uppers too, and was able to get my alignment back in spec. My buckets were also pushed in a lot, I think it's also what caused the motor mount to mash into the frame. Like a nutcracker effect...I wish I would have known they were so warped when I gusseted them and fixed the motor mounts, but what can you do. I forgot how nice it drives...

 

Thanks, it is The Truck Shop in San Diego. The attention to detail and planning really impressed me. They allowed me to swing by and be involved in the decision making and it was much appreciated. No complaints so far.

 

Is there some long travel Leaf springs that gives 4 inches of lift?

 

oh cool you got it back, ya Junior did a great job, almost makes me want to.....

 

looks great!! moar pics necessary!

 

New lowers for my 84-94 race kit.

 

Cool beans Matt...keepin' it 2nd gen real.... looks like a cool fort, so glad you got it caged buddy now you can take it out of low & into drive, next week the training wheels come off right ?....





you know I'm messin'.... truck looks great man...

 

How is everyone going about mounting their cab to cage? I have an engine cage and a bedcage that ties into a hoop inside the cab just in front of the rear window, and the cab sqeaks to high hell against it. So i have a few questions:
Given the lack of support between that hoop and the engine cage, would I be likely to cause body cracks/tears if it was only plated (cage to body) at each end (front and rear, essentially)?
I assume that polyurethane body mounts would help with cab movement, but not enough to eliminate the slam/sqeak sound completely; is this true? Like these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-8-4101r?seid=srese1&gclid=CKXbzJyZ9LsCFcNgfgodYzsApQ
Are there any decent ways to solid mount the body, or at least eliminate a bit of movement (and therefore sound), short of plating the cage to the body?
Thanks for any help guys

 

Pull out the rubber body mounts and replace them with aluminum pucks, then everything will move as one.

 

I'm no expert by any means but I thought they penetrated the cab with tubing,welded tubing to frame & sealed area around penetration, just guessing here

 

Woooorld of difference.

Now trying to figure out what to do about body mounts.

 

Are your body mounts different than mine RJ?

 

Am I reading this correctly? There is no tubing for the a pillar just w hoop around the b pillar?

 

Ugh why doesn't more companies make 4x4 kits for these years

 

All this talk about roll cages. I was going to have one installed next month but....

 

Did the same thing..had everything in the garage waiting for install when this happened, that god at least had my new seats and harnesses in

 

hmmmm..... that's the suspension years I have
Don't Heim the uppers though. Way better with bushings. Looks good man!

 

Where the hell you been Tom ??

 

I would love too, but it needs it to align. I've tried working off the factory crossbar, but it just rips the whole part off the frame or twist the upper a arms.

I had to replace the whole upper arm mount one year at battle at primm. I had a spare frame section that we cut everything off and sectioned it back on. LOL