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Outlet in bed

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ironmanjay, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:24 AM
    #61
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Some thing else you need to have a good look at with your 90 amp welder is what is it's short circuit load? Good to know unless you are a better welder than I am because I get the rod stuck to the metal a lot. While you are at it check the duty load rating.
     
  2. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:25 AM
    #62
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR нет войне

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    Rob II
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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)

    Yes, the dealer is correct. The toyota inverter is under the console. I doubt there is enough room to replace it with a 1000W unit. Also cooling is needed for higher wattage units. Beware, that if you actually use 1000Watts, that load is pretty heavy on your battery and you will drain it rather quickly.
     
  3. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:28 AM
    #63
    jetta.the.hut

    jetta.the.hut B4nn3d

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    Aren
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    just buy an 800w inverter mount it under the drivers seat and run new wires to the plug in back and be done with it, most 800w inverters have usb plug charging ports now too, i plan on doing this and mount 2 outlets, 1 usb and 1 120v facing the back seat out of the center consol and running another to the back, i dont have a TRD so im going to have to get creative with my bed plug. I'll probably mount a marine box and plug like they mount on warfs or docks
     
  4. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:29 AM
    #64
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR нет войне

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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    400W with truck running, and in Park. only 100W while in gear. (ie truck is moving.)Simple mod available to change that so 400W is available while truck is running, regardless of gear selector position.
     
  5. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:30 AM
    #65
    ClayCrusher

    ClayCrusher Texas Transplant Taco

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    5100, OME 886 deaver 2" AAL, 1.5" Block Peacemaker deluxe front bumper, 20" led bar, sPOD with custom switches, 285/70/17 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracks, Procomp 7033
    I'd used a grinder, drill, dremel, heat gun, and a few other tools off it with the truck running. It works great!
     
  6. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:35 AM
    #66
    jetta.the.hut

    jetta.the.hut B4nn3d

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    thought this was funny, this is on the 1100w inverter from home depot:



    I purchased this inverter mainly for my 650w microwave oven to heat up my leftover for lunch. I had it hook up to a large deep cycle battery with gauge 4 cable which also hooked up to the truck's battery, It displayed 12.7v on the build in meter, I was able to turn on the oven for the 1st day that I tried it out but the next day the oven stop in the mid way and the 3rd day . the oven would not start at all, The inverter took more than 45amp when it worked with the truck engine running . it displayed 680w on the display.. I than changed a new battery, same thing, the oven had power but it would not turn on .well, it is a nice made unit but it has to go back to Homedepot .too bad. The return experience was good. I think it is nice to purchase from Homedepot online it was simple and easy.Read Less
     
  7. Jan 10, 2014 at 12:33 PM
    #67
    junkman

    junkman Well-Known Member

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    Agreed, why run 14 when you can run 12? 20 cents a foot vs 25 cents or there abouts. If I have to worry about the difference in cost between the two, I probably won't be running a circuit.
     
  8. Jan 10, 2014 at 12:47 PM
    #68
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Yeah , anyway , like I said , most common house receptacle circuits are 15A unless in a kitchen
     
  9. Jan 10, 2014 at 1:09 PM
    #69
    junkman

    junkman Well-Known Member

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    Yes, becuase builders can build a house cheaper if they go with 15 amp cirucits where allowed you will most commonly see 15 amp cirucuits. That doesn't mean that there are not benefits to having more 20 amp circuits, and doesn't mean that I am going to add a 15 amp circuit when I go to the trouble of adding one.
     
  10. Jan 10, 2014 at 1:14 PM
    #70
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Well that's swell

    Like I said , MOST houses' receptacle circuits are 15A unless in a kitchen
     
  11. Jan 10, 2014 at 1:16 PM
    #71
    junkman

    junkman Well-Known Member

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    No doubt.
     
  12. Jan 10, 2014 at 1:17 PM
    #72
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Glad we agree
     
  13. Jan 10, 2014 at 1:50 PM
    #73
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Much closer to 55 amps DC. What did the voltage read when the microwave was working? As the voltage drops the current climbs. The inverter is about 90% efficient so you'll need to add 10% to any rated current draw. Your deep cycle should give you amps per hour for X amount of time somewhere on the battery.
     
  14. Jan 10, 2014 at 1:58 PM
    #74
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    About $15 more for a 100' run 20 amp outlets are also more expensive when some one is buying 1000' rolls guess what they are going to do for home runs? Usually 20 amp circuits are dedicated circuits microwave window A/C etc.
     
  15. Jan 10, 2014 at 2:02 PM
    #75
    junkman

    junkman Well-Known Member

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    :mad:

    Where is the fun in that?
     
  16. Jan 10, 2014 at 2:21 PM
    #76
    Smashing

    Smashing Well-Known Member

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    I was talking about plugging into a 20a outlet.

    I have a 100a service pannel in my garage. Every outlet is on it's own breaker all with the required proper gauge wire. Thanks for your concern
     
  17. Jan 10, 2014 at 2:25 PM
    #77
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    :)
     
  18. Jan 10, 2014 at 2:36 PM
    #78
    junkman

    junkman Well-Known Member

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    Here is my panel -- note there are a couple 15 amp circuits.....

    10059679223_381af7a6d4_o.jpg
     
  19. Jan 10, 2014 at 3:02 PM
    #79
    monkeyface

    monkeyface Douchebag, or just douche if we're friends

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    800W I think is about the maximum you can put on the stock truck, even with the tow package super alternator and battery. There's some discussions about the maximum wattage inverter on this board somewhere, I think the consensus was 800W. See this:


    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/170359-power-inverter-2.html


    Hmmmm, maybe I'm wrong about that maximum.


    P=IE, so 130A alternator x 12V = 1560 watts. I thought I read there was some limitations. Running the truck itself will drain some amperage that would go to the inverter. So maybe 1000W inverter is the best the truck can handle.


    A dual battery setup will provide more amps, but that's a major drain on the batteries . . . .


    I don't know, I'd like to upgrade this 425W inverter as much as possible. I've had it for many years from my 1st Gen and it handles some stuff pretty well. Let us know what you come up with if you do some more research.
     
  20. Jan 10, 2014 at 3:04 PM
    #80
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    you have 2 dryers ?
     

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