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CLOSED - The Retrofit Source GB

Discussion in 'Automotive Group Buys' started by TRSAndrew, Feb 11, 2013.

  1. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:18 PM
    #2041
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    Depends on the size of the shroud and where you want to mount the halo.
     
  2. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:19 PM
    #2042
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    Not necessarily. It really depends on exactly what shroud you use. Your best bet is to just call them and let them know what you're trying to do.
     
  3. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:22 PM
    #2043
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    Led Interior Lights AFE CAI Stage II, Aero Turbine 2525 Muffler Snugtop Cab-Hi shell TRS Retrofitted Headlights
    Ya your right I was referring to my shroud Apollo 3.0's.lol
     
  4. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:22 PM
    #2044
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    Haha yup, because 90mm halos fit perfectly around the outer edge of my Gatling Gun shrouds but don't fit well on the inside.
     
  5. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:25 PM
    #2045
    Ghost848

    Ghost848 Well-Known Member

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    OME + Dakers, 285/75R16 Nitto Trail Grapplers, ARB Bumper, Columbia overland Dual battery, Super winch,CC stage 4 clutch, bestop supertop, URD TO bearing, BHLM headlights, Cruisin offroad rear bumper, Harrop front E-locker.
    i was thinking g37-r shrouds
     
  6. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:46 PM
    #2046
    SilentSouls

    SilentSouls Active Member

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    Earth
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    I've been contemplating doing a retrofit for a few years now (yes...years :( ), so I would be very interested to see beam comparisons between the X and O lens Morimoto D2S 3.0's as well as to an FX-R. I've got a pair of FX-R's sitting here that I've had for probably two years now I just do no have the time to do the required modification to the stock housings and refuse to pay someone else to do it for me, haha. Anyway...so if anyone has beam shots for comparison, that would be pretty awesome. Not really expecting anything yet given how new they are but never hurts to ask.
     
  7. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:48 PM
    #2047
    Ghost848

    Ghost848 Well-Known Member

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    why not purchase cheap headlights and do retro at your own pace
     
  8. Jan 13, 2014 at 7:49 PM
    #2048
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    The X and O outputs should not be any different. They are the exact same lens, just one is square and the other is circular. Just buy an extra set of housings and take your time on them.
     
  9. Jan 13, 2014 at 8:10 PM
    #2049
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    They squares may have sharper cutoffs since they are a newer design but there's new d2s out that are just as sharp. For any one needing info go over to hidplanet.com and be prepared to get mind fucked
     
  10. Jan 13, 2014 at 8:10 PM
    #2050
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    The new D2S's are what we're talking about? :confused:
     
  11. Jan 13, 2014 at 8:32 PM
    #2051
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    They have the new square ones and then there's whatever version they're on for the regular ones
     
  12. Jan 13, 2014 at 8:33 PM
    #2052
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    They're both new. Both have the new D2S III projector design.
     
  13. Jan 13, 2014 at 8:42 PM
    #2053
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    Ya just a different lense
     
  14. Jan 14, 2014 at 11:26 PM
    #2054
    Jferrill84

    Jferrill84 Well-Known Member

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  15. Jan 14, 2014 at 11:33 PM
    #2055
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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  16. Jan 15, 2014 at 8:31 AM
    #2056
    geogecko

    geogecko Well-Known Member

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    IMO, installers want too much. I was quoted $750 in just labor alone for just doing the headlight housings! Getting some Depo housings and doing them at a slow pace is the way to go. Buy the windshield sealant, and a tube of silicone window sealant (completely seal the outside of the bead after baking). I've had no issues with fogging for about 4 months now.
     
  17. Jan 15, 2014 at 9:00 AM
    #2057
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    They do ask a lot but they also do phenomenal work and can do some crazy stuff haha. Deff cheaper to do it yourself and learn from it
     
  18. Jan 15, 2014 at 9:29 AM
    #2058
    pebblin

    pebblin Active Member

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    How do you tighten down the lock ring once everything's assembled without disrupting the horizontal line? Mine is sunk down a bit behind the retainer clip holder. I'm considering flipping the adapter plate around. I had everything as level as I'd like it last night, but I'm stuck on that part.
     
  19. Jan 15, 2014 at 9:35 AM
    #2059
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    Hold the projector in your hand as you tighten it, or put a little jb weld in it to keep it from turning
     
  20. Jan 15, 2014 at 9:39 AM
    #2060
    Casey05Taco

    Casey05Taco Well-Known Member

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    trd seat covers, bed mat, tinted windows, debadged, mud flaps removed, tinted tails, blacked out center console, Black Rims, 6000k HID in highs and fogs, blacked out front emblem, Pioneer AVH-4300DVD, Gauge Cluster, lower valence, retrofitted, audio system, Maxtrac Spindles, Billies
    I cant figure out the order to make these things sit in the projector. I did the first retaining clip in, then the light, then the metal circle, then rubber piece then last retainer to sink it in. Whenever I hook the ballast up to the light it works fine, but when I try and twist off the ballast connector from the light the light just spins in the projector and I cant get it out. Any clue? Do i need to put the first retaining clip further down to get more depth or what?

    Have mini d2s btw
     

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