How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

I thought I had always read to not use the iridium plugs on a Tacoma V6, but maybe that story is not true. I just remember reading that they ran horribly in the Tacoma, but sounds like you're not having that problem?

 

I guess I have to confess that I actually did not read as much as I obviously should have regarding the "debate" of iridium vs copper in this vehicle. I did not use the iridium because I thought they would necessarily be better. I purchased these plugs prior to the removal of the old ones which were not iridium and, as I stated earlier, were Denso/NGK mix which indicated to me that they could likely been origional.

I selected the iridium because they were what my information indicated were the correct plug for the truck not out of a "belief" that iridium or platinum is necessarily better. They have only been in for one day and I will be taking a trip this weekend and will be monitoring my fuel consumption closely. Proof is in the numbers.

I can only ask if there are real issues with the iridium and should I consider removing them and replacing with standard plugs?

 

THIS IS GREAT, going to do this this weekend, my truck is at 40k first time changing it. well see how it goes

 

Just Did Mine!! THIS HELPED SO MUCH THANKS AGAIN. I was done in 2.5 hrs,( first time doing it $150 saved by not going to the dealer. now what mod can I buy for this money LOL

 

Please, I ask that nobody take this as a slam or dig at anybody's skills or abilities. I certainly do understand that we all have our gifts and weaknesses, (mine can certainly be said to be computers, I am totally lost).

I am only passing this along. I read all the "how to" posts at the beginnning of this thread and found them to be VERY informative and I extend my thanks to Chris for posting it. The only piece of information that I was not able to find was a torque value for the bolts securing the coil packs to the valve cover. Because the bolts hold a part that is essentially plastic and screws into an aluminum part, it would be easy to over tighten this and damage either part. However I only want to say that I found this job to be VERY easy and I was able to accomplish this easily in less than an hour. (not counting the time I had to allow the engine to cool). It was straight forward.

Chris did qualify his time estimate based on one's ability to work on engines. I am and have been for over 35 years a licensed aircraft mechanic and work on large commercial aircraft and turbine engines. I have done all my own automotive work since I have have been driving and I am almost 60 now. I have no reservation on tackling an engine or transmissionn R&R or overhaul and have done so more than once.

An additional thought on the reason to work on a cold engine and torque. While I would always rather have the luxury to wait for an engine to cool, in my line of work, it isn't always possible so if I have to work on it hot, I will. That said there are things that do REQUIRE that the engine be cool. As Chris stated, stripping the threads in the hole is much easier when the head is hot but there are also other considerations. Different metals have different expansion rates. When the head is hot and the plug is cold, the hole is bigger than it would be and the plug can be driven deeper into the hold than it would if both parts were the same temp at the same torque. So putting a cold plug into a hot head will ultimately result in a plug being tighter than it should be and COULD cause issues when it is time to remove them.

Understanding that the torque on these plugs is not real high, 15 ft/lbs should not result in a stripped head even if the head were hot BUT that presumes that you are actually using a properly calibrated and set torque wrench. This is one reason I would alway reccomend that if you are going to be doing much of your own work, invest in good torque wrench and depending on what all you want to do, you may need more than one to cover the various torque ranges. I have three a home.

 

Congrats. It is always nice to save money. I should have done mine sooner. As I noted, the ones I took out could have likely been the factory origional and the gap was close to .060. For some time I have been trying to think of things to do to improve my fuel economy and I am hoping this will do something for that.

 

One thing i noticed. The passanger side old sparks were gapped at .41, the drivers side (NGK-R) were gapped at .50.. I gapped all at .42 and everytging seemed to work great. I had good fuel ecoomy before and noticing no change after.. I guess i will have to wait and see and let you guys known if i notice anything

 

sub'd

 

I just helped a buddy change his plugs on his '07 that has a little over 80,000 miles. He just bought it used and I have been helping him do some maintenance to make sure it is tip top.

I was shocked to pull the drivers side and see NGK's after the passenger side was Denso's

Denso's measured between .050-.055 and
NGK's measured between .060-.064

I figure it is very unlikely that they were swapped and a mix of plugs was put back in. Put in all Denso's and it is running a little smoother, not that it was running poorly before the swap.

Could this have caused any damage to the engine or other parts? The plugs looked a little corroded and the center electrodes were worn unevenly but they didn't look real bad. What say y'all?

Scared to see what his diff fluids look like.

 

Its possible that whoever owned it previously never changed the spark plugs.

 

That is exactly what I am assuming. Could 80,000 miles on the original plugs cause any damage?

 

other than running poorly, not likely.

 

I had 9x,xxx miles on my factory plugs. I'm up to 119,xxx miles now and haven't noticed anything wrong.

 

Except that the plugs could become a witch spelled with a "B," to remove.

From what I was told by a master mechanic, it's why all the mfg'ers are moving back to 30,000 mile plug changes instead of 100,000 miles.


Jim

 

Because dissimilar metals get welded together - even tho the plugs are still good

 

I found four NGK v-power spark plugs in my 2RZ-FE engine today. the gaps are 0.062~0.064. Could those be the original plugs? it's been 11 years and 115xxx miles

Also, does the plugs look too dark?

 

I don't know if welded together is the correct term, but they do seize up to be like their welded and become very difficult to remove without breaking the plug.

This is according to my mechanic, who has the experience of having to remove plugs with 100,000 miles plus.

He's also had do it yourself mechanics who broke their plugs trying to remove them, only to have the vehicle towed to his shop for him to repair after the damage was done.

He said, the 100,000 mile before plug change has many motorist in a mindset that no maintenance is needed before 100,000 miles.

Seems to make sense to me, where I know people who don't even change their oil before 100,000 miles. Seriously.


Jim

 

OK, So on the 6 cyl it calls for 30,000 so no problem. On the 4 cyl 2.7 it calls for 100,000 so when does he recommend to avoid problems - 70,000 or what .
"people who don't even change their oil before 100,000 miles. Seriously.". I feel for anyone that buys a used vehicle with this lack of maintenance.