CV Axle Replacement ... express method!!

Sub'd

 

My thought was, they have 126k miles on them so they will probably tear soon

 

Swapping the entire axle allows you to get your truck back on the road immediately. You can then rebuild the old one at your leisure and keep it hand for the next time.

Mike

 

I realize that. But there's no need to rebuild it he said. They're not ripped. I've rebuild many a tacoma axle. If you buy a boot kit you can have your truck back on the road immediately too. Definitely takes longer than just replacing the entire axle though.

 

Well, i successfully completed my first cv axle replacement on my tacoma. As stated many times b4, hardest part was just getting the axle out of the diff. Everything else went pretty smooth. All in all, took about and hour.Just replacing a boot looks like it would be more of a pita though

 

Constant velocity boots are NOT that difficult to replace . The trick is to catch the boots before they rip . If you catch them before they rip , you have a good chance of saving the axle joint from dirt and mud . Thats what kills them . Look at the rubber every once in a while when you are under the truck .If the boots are starting to crack , go grab some quality boot kits that come with the clamps and grease . Pay attention to the parts you buy as Some aftermarket parts are made of plastic rather than Nitrile.Some aftermarket boots do not fit in the same place the OEM boot was fitted . A good quality boot kit will last longer then OEM . I would suggest purchasing a CV boot clamping tool . I beleive they run about $12 bucks and work very well .
The key here is measuring the original axle in its extended position as well as its contracted position and its neutral position . When replacing CV boots , They must be burped of air before the new clamps go on . If you dont burp the air properly , the axle will be too long and will not plunge causing damage to the diff or wheel bearings . This is why its very crucial to measure all 3 positions before you replace the inner boot .The outer boot has to swivel 360 degrees smoothly .If the axle boot is starting to crack , you can almost bet that the grease inside the axle joint is all dried up or the grease is pushed all to one end of the axle joint . You can probably install new boots on your axle for about $24 bucks . I havnt priced a new axle , but I can imagine they run much more than $25 bucks .Saving fellow Tacoma owners a few green backs is what its all about
EDIT : if you are too late and have no choice but to purchase a new axle , measure and compare your original axle to the new axle making sure all the splines are the same ,and the plunge stroke matches your original axle Before you install the new axle . Ask me why I know ?

 

Subd

 

I'm not seeing this easy method. Got axle nut off removed lower ball joint nuts to steering knuckle as I swing axle about it's clearly attached to sway bar, tie rod and upper ball joint. What other components need to come off? any video showing how to do procedure my drivers axle side seal is blown and truck dead in the garage?

 

Didnt work for me either. I had to disconnect the sway bar, lbj, upj, and abs sensor line then tied it up out of the way to get enough room to work with the axle.

 

The sway bar and steering tie rod need to come off.

Here is a video showing the change on an FJ that may help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHY1rpRD11g

 

Yeah. I did mine and it was a little tougher than that. It was a pain getting the axle out of the diff. Once I got it lined up and pry'd it in just the right spot it popped out.

My diff seal was leaking so I replaced it as well. Easy to do with the axle out.

 

Video looks good but looks more involved for the 05 Tacoma. sway bar upper ball joint assembly not looking so flexible.. Any one have a video for the Tacoma. to remove install the axle to change my leaking seal?

 

Am I reading this correctly; you are replacing the whole CV shaft because of a torn boot? Why not just replace the boot and keep your Toyota axles? Sure, it will take longer, but keep your OEM parts. Unless they are just worn out from the bad boot.

 

You guys are making it harder than it is .. I was able to do it with only removing the lower ball joints and not the uppers nor the sway bar. Next time (if it happens) I'll set up a camera and record it. It is as simple as I stated in the OP, no joke.

 

The hardest part for me on the whole process was yanking the axle out of the front diff. That sucker didn't want to come out at all! I had to use a big pry bar and ended up damaging the differential seal.

 

Getting the axle out of the diff was the easiest part for me. Just use the steel cable and sledge trick and it pops out super easy. No damage to the seals or diff housing from a prybar either.

 

That's what I was going to say.......






what's the steel cable and sledge trick?

 

To clear this up. The cv axles are fine problem is that the axle seal at the diff. is leaking badly. to change the seal the axle has to come out. Axle spindle sits inside the Steering knuckle and bearing assembly. Which is attached to the tie rod lower ball joint sway bar and upper ball joint. Would really like to use the easy method but not looking good. a video how to expose the axle for removal would be helpful.

 

Scroll down a ways on this page and there's an explanation with a picture.

 

Man I really wish I would have known this. It was only like a $10 part from the dealer though so not a huge deal. Good to know if i ever have to do this again though.