Level 10 valve body upgrade reviews

how much do u think the STOCK trans can hold powerwise?

 

I wanna know too!

 

Well the a750f in the 1st gen tundra was bolted to the 4.7 and in 2006 was rated at 282 hp and 325 lb-ft. I also believe that the second gen Tundra with the 4.7 was rated to tow 8100 lbs which I believe still used the a750f. So the a750f is a very strong transmission, especially with just our 4.0 attached to it.

 

Yeah but there's some who push a lil more power than the first gen tundra and and are curious just how well these auto trans are built.

 

X2 id love to be safely pushin 310-350 whp without tearin into the trans

 

Does that mean the new Tundy uses this trans too?

If so, then u mean this trans can take 500hp?

If not, then the trans is only good till 300?



I know the blown tundys start having slipping issues without anything else done to them besides the blower.

 

But we are worried about the trans with aftermarket HP supporting mods.

 

May not quite be what folks are looking for but eh...

I'll link this here. Seems appropriate: http://www.transgo.com/products.php...d=264&countdisplay=1&start=0&addcountview=Yes

And for the curious A340 crowd...here you go too! (I may install one of these kits in the nearer future): ttp://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat=A340%2C-A341&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=149&parent_id=149

 

Ya, I understand that. I still think it shows how strong the transmission is that Toyota would use it on a vehicle that makes 40-50 hp more and about 60 lb-ft more and still maintain the same reliability. Most automatics don't really take additional horsepower well, but it would seem as though are transmission is very overbuilt for the Tacoma.

 

Yup read those a while back and forgot bout them....

So I guess we are still going with ipt like I intended, and since we have no idea the power these trans can handle bone stock, I guess the sooner the better.

Wonder how much a new vb costs to send john, to avoid down time.

 

I've contacted IPT and they will not sell you the kit they install in the valve body. You must ship your valve body.


And yes Level10 do a core exchange. This olution is avalaible for the valve body and the torque converter. You have to do a depsoit that will be refund at reception of your core.

 

Man those are some horror stories!

IPT sounds like the only way to go.

 

i sent my valve body off to level 10… I'm not completely convinced it was done properly. if i get on the gas then have to come to a quick stop, its almost like its getting stuck between gears. valves not opening and closing properly.ill get a strong surge sometimes after I've come to a complete stop. sometimes the surge will come after i stop then get back on the gas. sometimes surge hard enough to get a chirp out of my tires. it happens mostly at lower speeds… but i i have had it happen in the 30 40 mph range… i don't know exactly what a improperly modified valve bodies gonna feel like, but it damn sure feels like what ever I'm experiencing is in my transmission… not the answer you were looking for but it might help you make your decision. the downtime was why i went level 10… couldn't be with out a vehicle that long. maybe the waits worth it


help please...

 

What do you mean exactly when you say "surge"? And chirping the tires between shifts with a shift kit when you're on the gas hard is normal

 

Go with John the owner of IPT and never look back. The guy's reputation is sterling nation wide. I had him do my vb on my sc tundra years ago and it worked perfect. No more slips, firm and crisp into every gear.

 

Another vote for John at IPT.

He setup the valve body on my S/C'd 1st Gen and I was super pleased with the work. John will customize your VB for the horsepower upgrades and how you want the tranny to shift.

Also when you first do the VB upgrade don't be alarmed with the aggressive shifts. I mean like snap your neck back shifts...lol. The new springs need time to break-in and the shifts will mellow out some.
This upgrade was one of my favorites along with the supercharger.


RJM

 

Something definitely doesn't sound right. The shifts should not be sporadic, they should be predictable and precise.

I'm not sure I would trust another valve body to go in my truck other than the one that was taken out. Maybe you got a valve body that was slightly different in tolerances than what you sent in.

Have you tried dropping the valve body to make sure the springs are in their right locations? I know if you don't use the spring "goop" to hold parts in place they can easily fall out during the install.


RJM

 

doesn't even nessicarily have to be hard on the gas, just off the gas and to the brake... and by surges I mean, the truck will surge forward. if I don't keep on the brake I'd rear end someone. feels kinda like it's not shifting up and down properly at low speeds...?

 

does it matter if the AC is on or off?

Is it the dreaded axle wrap?

 

well I've got a pretty horrible story about my v/b... it was taken out of my truck, packaged and mailed off to level 10. when they received it, they called my mechanic and said it looked like it had been thrown off a 6 story building!?? absolutely destroyed! my mechanic bought UPS insurance just incase something happened. well level 10 said there were holes in the box it was obviously mishandled NOT packaged incorrectly. so, in order to get my truck back to me in a timely manor, my mechanic shelled out another $700 + shipping for a brand new valve body from Toyota for my truck. so I'm positive it's not the one I sent, but is SUPPOSED to be a brand new one, for my truck... how would I go about finding out if they even put the right one in it. and do they vary from truck to truck? it's always possible my mechanic may have missed something when reinstalling!? was kinda hoping someone might be able to pinpoint it just from hearing what's wrong... haven't had time to drop anything yet and take a look