Long Travel BS Thread

eventually i plan on doing a 3.4 SCd as well. plenty of power.

 

yeah. itll be cheaper, and more of a "bolt in" type of job. i just really want to keep heat and ac.

 

Anyone know where I could possibly get one of these? All pro wants $29 and I don't want to pay that if I don't have too.
Thanks

 

That bolt is proprietary to the AP Long travel HD steering kit. Only source I know of is direct through AP

 

jason still has heat/ac... but i know what you mean keeping it as 'yota as possible

 

no see, heat and ac AND an ls is way way too appealing. hmm. if i find a 6.0 or another 5.3 with low miles, ill swap that into the gmc and throw the current gmc heart into the toyota ! damn it. i was hoping this was way more of a pain in the ass.

 

I run dual straps. My buddy nick runs 3 straps.

 

i could, but with over 300 on the clock, its a matter of time. and the 4.8 is the same size as the rest of the ls family. blocks are the same size. i just dont want to have to cut out my firewall and get crazy with it. id like it to be a 2 week ordeal at best.

 

Well the maiden voyage with the new rear was pretty successful! Nothing that was really pushing the rear, but it was still a rough deeply rutted trail. The foot of snow didn't help any though. My front seems to be the weak link now, but my ORI's are not tuned at all, they just have random pressures in them right now. I'm still waiting on a regulator and fill kit so I can adjust them.















I'm glad to finally experience a light taste of LT

 

This truck is badass

 

Towers look familiar...

inboard no less.

 

Oh? I designed them myself out cardboard before we made them out of steel. There's only so many ways you can design a strong tower though really. haha I just started by decided the top would be 4" by 4" and the bottom 10" by 4" and we roughly held the shock in the spot we thought would go and measured how high above the frame it would go and added a couple inches. After that I just kind of pieced it together will trial and error as I went. Once it was together we test fit it and it looked like it would work so I traced the pieces onto the steel plate and rctoy cut them out with the plasma cutter while I cleaned up the pieces for welding and then he welded them together.

 

I don't see a bump stop..... Please tell me I'm blind.

 

POOF !! you're blind !!.... bump stops are for springs that dont know when to quit Nick....


didn't even look to see...

 

I wish I could say you are blind. haha I have some King 2.0x4" bumps, but we haven't got them put in yet. We have been doing this a weekend at a time. They are the next thing on the list to go in with some frame plating/boxing and a new cross member and then I can measure for limit straps off that cross member so I can get it strapped as well. Until then I will just go easy on it.

 

Did you cycle that on the main leaf? Your going to be bumped quite a bit below the frame with where your shocks are, when you bottom out the driver side at the same time its going to drop the axle farther down on the side you see here. With your shocks inside the frame you should have a more shaft left when flexed like that

Edit: look how much shaft is left here with the wheel pretty much buried and Jason actually found his shocks were mounted too low

 

Built Right offers a tower mount system in their catalog, Lembowski was the test truck. Similar some what, outboard mount though.

 

hehe I used you to demonstrate on the edit

 

Nope, but the shocks are pretty much maxed out when it is at full droop though, so the only way to fix it would be to run 18's, but I had already picked up 16's at Tim's recommendation that they would be plenty for what I was planning.