4low-trac

You do know that if you reground that yellow wire after shifting to 4lo the flashing 4lo light will go solid and you will still have 4lo Trac?

I got super serious and put a real A-Trac switch next to my lighter where it is supposed to be and made a small relay to connect the yellow wire back to its ground. I even illuminated the A-Trac switch as it is supposed to be...with full dimming. I know, I know I am sick.

When I switch to 4lo the 4lo light flashes like on yours. When I then press the A-Trac switch it regrounds the yellow wire and makes the 4lo light go solid but maintains full 4lo Trac capabilities. The flashing light always bothered me for some reason.

You can use your imagination and do this with about any switch. It just looks really factory on mine and the fit of the OEM switch is perfect.

 

I have been trying to get my diff lock to work, ive taken it out its clean as a pin and i am able to manually put in and out of lock please help how and where can i check for voltage .or relay , i am a wounded warrior and it may take me a while to try or get back to ya but thx in advance and ive tried in 4 lo forward and reverse weaving left and right the only time the light didnt flash is whem i manually put it in lock and put the actuator back in and it showed lock but still wont unlock...

 

Any chance you took pics? I like your idea and would like to do the same thing. Thanks in advance.

 

33yrsoftoys, I'm real bad about pics....either the camera is always MIA or the battery is dead if I do find the camera .

Edit for Error in Parts Manual:

The OEM location for the A-Trac switch is supposed to be next to the cigarette lighter. This is where I put mine. It is a different size blank than most all the others in the truck. The switch for this location is part number 84988-04060. It has an amber LED for back-lighting.

IDK, if you locate it in one of the other blanks, like left of the steering wheel, the FJ Cruiser switch might work as it is a bit larger but its back light is also a bit different color. It is part number 84988-35060.

I used a relay in conjunction with the switch but thinking in retrospect a relay would probably not be needed as the yellow wire is just a ground connect that completes the signal.

The OEM A-Trac switch is actually the male side so I directly soldered wires to the terminals and then filled the cavity with silicone. However, there is a female connector that could be used to connect it and if you like I will dig up its part number the correct terminals for its use.

You could wire the LED terminals on the switch to the HVAC wires and get the correct dimming and light exactly like all the other dash lights. I came directly off the rheostat but this is not necessary. The HVAC wires are a lot easier.

 

Thanks Taco'09, I'm getting it. One question left, after you cut the yellow wire which end did you ground to the switch, the one going into the harness or the loose one running away from the harness?

 

Honestly, just to stop the blinking dashlight. It's like the seatbelt light, it buggs the hell out of me.

 

^^ It bugged me too. I guess its an individual thing, like the TPMS light.

To answer your question, I cut the yellow wire back about 1' from where it enters the junction then soldered a long piece from one part of the yellow wire to the switch (I actually used the switch and a relay but the switch will work).

Another long piece was soldered to the remaining piece of the yellow wire and it too was run to the switch. You are forming a loop from one end of the yellow wire to the other but through the switch. When the switch is off, the ground is broken and the 4lo light blinks. Tap the switch to on and the ground is reconnected thus making the 4lo light solid, but 4lo Trac is actually working. Repeat as necessary.

How do you know it is working? The squiggly car icon on the instrument cluster will go off and the traction control will kick in once the wheels start slipping -- approxmately 2,000-2,500 rpm is the sweet spot.

 

Thanks for being patient with my questions. I just want to get this right. As long as the yellow wire circuit is interrupted when its first engaged track will work in 4lo. With your circuit it reinguages the circuit causing the blinking light to stop without interrupting 4lo track? Thanks again. Joel.

 

Actually, I would really like the 4x4 switch illuminated. It would be easier to use after dark. Same thing with the BLINKING light. Aggravating AFTER dark. In the daylight it doesn't bother me as bad. If it doesn't take to much extra effort to stop the blinking light, and 4lo trac still works, I'm in!

 

so, let me see if I get it... you just put the switch in the yellow wire? it is open when you put 4low and starts blinking, then you just close the circuit and it stops blinking, while leaving Trac on?

Thanks!!!

 

I think it must be something to do with the relay in the circuit. It must allow enough current to ground the light without completing the full circuit shutting off trac?

 

33yrsoftoys and Chepo, yep you got it.

 

^^ Try flipping the switch on and off while still in 4lo. If I kill the engine on mine while in 4lo it automatically resets to the blinking light. I just tap the switch again to set it solid.

 

If I could, one more question. What relay did you use? I think that might be why it works so well. Thanks again.

 

Great thank you!!!!!

Yup! and if it's not that much trouble, can you help us with a diagram???

Thanks a lot!!!!!

 

Radio Shack #275-0241 (alternate #275-241), SPDT (single pole double throw), 1 amp. Its a tiny relay that I mounted to a small piece of breadboard and wrapped it with a piece of soft foam to keep it from rattling and shorting out something, and then put it behind the switch. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062481

Try to use 20AWG wire if you can find it...just makes it easier to work with and I believe the yellow wire is 20AWG or 22AWG.

 

^^ I dug out the diagram I made nearly 5 yrs. ago and honestly think there would be some confusion generated by posting it. Namely, at the time I did this I tied both the power for the relay and the light for the switch into that colored spaghetti mess of wires at the rheostat. I works but is the really hard way of doing it. Plus my diagram is pretty cryptic and specific to my '09. IDK it may be better and less confusing for one of you to get the switch and/or the relay and I can post instructions to walk you through it once you have it in hand.

Otherwise, if I get real motivated I would have to redraw the diagram but don't know if 2 different versions would have to be made: one for 2011 models and earlier, and one for 2012+.

 

33yrsoftoys, Chepo and others. Shazaaaaam! Found an error in the parts manuals today. Looks like the only OEM A-Trac switch for Tacos may be 84988-04060 with an amber back light and it is intended to go next to the cigarette lighter. This is the one I got for my '09. Note that Post No. 592 above has now been edited to reflect this.

 

Cool!!!!! Next week I'll order the switch!