How's my alignment?

Hi,
Took my 2006 AC TRD Sport (OME lift, 255/85R16) for alignment to Firestone for the first time in the last 2 years. Here's the numbers I got. I feel an ever so slight pull to the left. They also discovered that my caster dial backplate flanges were flattened, which makes adjustments very hard.
Anyways, I'd appreciate some input on the numbers, as well as possible explanations why the steering pulls left. I only picked it up but it doesn't seem strong enough that I couldn't live with it, especially since the city roads here in SLC have a pronounced crown and roads tilt right.

 

More toe on the left causes a left pull.

I'm guessing that you don't have new UCAs after the OME lift that allows them to add more caster into the alignment?

 

Caster is too low

 

That's correct, I have stock UCAs for now. What UCAs should I get and what should my caster be? How far could I go with stock UCAs? This is an overland rig, not a rock crawler.

How do I correct the toe?

 

Driver side caster dial is busted, the flanges on the backplate have been flattened. Dealership says it'll cost me roughly $1000 to replace (more than half that in labor) so I wanna see what's the best I could get without it before I bite the bullet.

 

^^ Your caster is out of whack as already noted and the camber figures are not ideal either. It is going to be very, very difficult to align it with those tabs flattened and not possible if the cam has seized. The bad news is both bushings on that LCA and the cams may need to be replaced and those tabs fixed. The tabs can be fixed by straightening them and then running a weld bead for support or using something else welded there.

I would also inquire with the tech that attempted this if the right side cams were also seized or whether they got lucky and the numbers were already there.

FYI, the alignment cams seize because Toyota is too cheap to put a 5 cent dab of antisieze on them. If you replace them use some antiseize.

There is a DIY here if you feel comfortable about doing it yourself but the bushings and cam stuff are a bit expensive. I've rebuilt a couple of LCAs but don't know if I would do it again. Is kind of a PITA. The ball joint should also be inspected. If I were to do it again I would just buy new LCAs from one of the discounters if the bushings and ball joints also needed replacement.

Good luck.

 

Thanks everyone for your replies. Looks like I'll have to get this done to get my ride back. Given that a set of tires runs close to a $1000 installed, it'll pay itself off pretty quickly, I reckon.

I'm also gonna get Total Chaos UCAs while at it. Could someone guide me as to what other parts are needed to have them installed? I plan on having the work done at the dealership as I don't know anyone else here in SLC I'd trust to do the caster cams work. Any OEM parts they can get, I just wanna make sure I get them all the right parts from get go so my truck isn't sitting in their garage for days.

edit: gonna go with TC instead of LR as they seem to work out better for most folks and I only wanna do this once.

 

UPDATE: I had the TC UCA's installed, tabs bent back, with a weld bead behind to reinforce (on both driver and passenger side dials). I also had the diff drop installed at the same time to correct the diff-to-CV angle, which could've become even more problematic with new UCAs since they allow greater articulation.
Anyways, here's the new alignment numbers and I'm pretty pleased as the truck now drives straight, no bump or pull, and it's all back to happyland.

Thanks once again for all the suggestions, as well as related posts that helped educate me on the matter.