Home Improvement Today?

Electric heaters produce heat

 

oh, i follow ya... the conventional ones i suppose do, ...i was assuming that opti-myst model is completely effects though...

 

4095 BTU's

http://www.dimplex.com/en/fireplaces/optimyst/products/gdsopr1382cn/amsden_electric_fireplace

 

hmm... new to me, ..there's an electric heating element in there somewhere?.. a blower fan?... i'm accustomed to my direct vent gas fireplace, ...been kinda out of the loop on some of these new innovations...

 

It's an electric heater. It provides heat as well as the fake fire. You can run it without heat as well if you just want the fire look.

 

Hey Robert, I think I've asked you this before but what have you found to be the best way to remove wallpaper? The spray and perforating tool or a steamer?

 

Who da f is robert
Di u mean oh cupless one
Steamer
Be prepared to skim coat drywall after removal

 

Robert = Evil Monkey... The guy who's been removing a shit ton of wallpaper from his house.

 

Go back to sleep

 

I've owned a steamer for years. The only way to go. Just have to get used to how long to hold it on each section. You only want to hold it on the paper long enought to loosen the glue.

And never perforate it. That just lets the steam and water into the drywall paper and you will have to skim it.

 

It seems to depend on the type of wallpaper. First, I try to see if it will just peel off by hand. If the paper is thick enough, sometimes you can just pull the front off the backing. In the small room attached to my living room, the paper just pulls off, leaving the paper backing that's glued to the wall. Then I spray the DIF solution on that. It soaks in well and the whole sheet will usually come off in one pass. The paper had a ridged felt-like texture to it.

DIF concentrate works really well if it can soak into the paper. You mix one cap-full of the DIF concentrate (not the GEL) with one gallon of water. Then, spray it on the wall using one of those backpack pump sprayers.

Let it sit for 15 minutes so it can react with the glue and it should peel right off.

For the paper in our living room, the DIF solution was not working so well. It doesn't soak into the paper as easily (the DIF has to get to the glue). It'd get some soaking where the wallpaper met with another sheet but it wouldn't soak through the surface. So we're using a Wagner steamer that came with a wallpaper attachment. It works well but it's much slower. You fill it with water, let it heat up and then place the attachment over the area you're going to remove. Steam it for about 10 seconds and that portion of the sheet will come right off (about 8"x11"). It mostly takes time because it has to keep generating steam after it's been used a couple of times. It's easy though.

I don't perforate the paper. The guy who recommended DIF (it's a video) said it makes it harder because it tends to come off in little pieces rather than one big sheet.

 

Here's the post with the Youtube link (DIF method). If I remember it's an 8 part video (youtube is blocked at work now).

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/garage-workshop/12120-home-improvement-today-14.html#post5588562

 

Got the wallpaper off in the living room. Now to clean the glue off with the Dif solution.

 

Any input on my proposed method for dealing with the window and tiling?



I am thinking of taking some 1/2" furring strips and gluing them to the window frame to match the surface of the CBU under the tile. Before attaching them, I am going to water seal the hell out of them and paint them white, then attach them with some liquid nails. Then take some bullnose tiles and go right up to the strips to only leave a 1/2" reveal directly to the window frame. Probably do the same above the tile but fill in the gap with some drywall pieces and paint it the same color as the wall.

Is there a better way to deal with this?

 

Spray foam the cavity between the window and the framing with minimal expanding spray foam before you seal it up or you will definitely get condensation in there

 

Perfect - thanks for the tip. Will pick some up tonight and let it cure before sealing the area. Do you recommend sealing the grout or just let it be? Both for the shower area as well as the flooring.

 

Got all the wood off and put drywall up. Next step is to prime, texture and paint. I'm going to reuse the wood to build some shutters.

 

i've lived in my house now for about 3 months, im learning that the original owner cared nothing about maintenance. and if there was ever a problem, it was not dealt with it was just covered up.

anyways, here is my question for the day. i hope to address this somehow in the spring. i'm not sure who did the siding installation on the house, or if it is actually supposed to be done like this.....



this is how the siding is bordered around the doors, windows etc... i think it looks like absolute crap! there was a section of porch here that was removed so he could install a handicap ramp so this looks especially bad. this is probably the worse spot on the house...but i mean what the heck??? did the installer just really half ass this? what are you supposed to use around doors, windows and stuff? i don't think these are pieces of j-channel (i think that is what it is called, forgive me i am new siding nOOb), it looks like it was just some sort of trim glued in place. any ideas or suggestions on what to replace it with?

 

Windex works very well also. I'm taking border off of my walls. None of the inside corners in my bedrooms were ever finished. There's trim in every vertical and around the top of the walls. I just got done taping the first bedroom so now I have to paint. Next house I buy will be wayyyy picked over before I buy.

 

I had the same problem on the back of my house when I removed a deck. The problem is finding siding that will match the existing siding. I had to have the entire rear of the house resided to make it look right. Not an inexpensive fix.