Any 6" lifts with don't require cutting crossmember

I was told that the fabtech and procomp lifts all require cutting the crossmember in order to fit the tires, especially the 35s. Any suggestions... I just don't wanna have to cut the crossmember.

 

I don't think any exist...You are making radical changes to the suspension geometry and I think that means cutting

 

let me help make this clear for u. all 6" lifts are drop bracket sytems and come with new crossmembers. if u have a 4x4 not 4x2 then u have to cut the front crossmember so install the lift so that the front differential and axels can be lowered. this keeps the factory geometry in tact and cv joints at factory angles.

the triming and cutting u refer to to fit 35's is seperate issue it is trimming in the wheel wells so the 35's dont rub when flexed. this is avoidable by running 33's

i notice some people are nervouse about cutting the factory front crossmember. let me asure u that the new crossmember that is installed is much stronger then the factory one. the factory one is much thinner material then the new one that is bolted in with the kit.

3 inch kits are not a better way to go. i know i am going to get flamed here but whatever. when u install a 3" kit. u are just extending your shockes in some form or another by spacer new coilover whatever there are many options. what this does is take away negative travel of your suspension and its ability to extend. suspension needs to travel up and down. not just sompress. some people install a 1" spacer to lower the diff. that is just one problem. your rack and pinion is not acounted for as well as upper ball jkoints and controle arm angles.

hope this info isa help to u.

 

^ just curious, one of the problems you stated with a 3 inch...many three inch lifts in fact increase suspension travel and articulation over the stock set up. To the OP if you are 4X2 you best bet for 6 inch lift without cutting would be aftermarket spindles paired with some new coilovers and new leaf pack/shocks for the rear.

 

"Six inches is too much"

That's what she said.






Anyways. What are the advantages of a 6" over 3"? All the 6" that I see just look wierd. I like the look of a 3" a lot more.

 

theoretically you dont gain any ground clearance with a 6" drop bracket lift, other then the clearance you gain from larger tires.

 

lmao

 

OK. So the truck just looks bigger. Not really any more ground clearance? Cool.

 

under the front diff at least. the drop brackets negate any gain you could have gotten from the actual lift in the front. Plus another reason I think 6" is the worse of the two is because you can still only use 33" tires without doing major surgery to the bodymounts etc....

 

SilverSeven and I have debated the following. what if you got the RCD 4.5" DB lift and then used the Pro Comp 6" lift mx coilovers. going this direction could have positive gains, you would have 6" of lift and gain about the same ground clearance as having a set of 5100's set at 1.75" of lift because of the smaller drop brackets but longer shocks to do some extra lifting.

 

That sounds like a pretty good idea, that would give the 4X4 guys a method to get the full 6 inches of lift without any clearance issues

 

that direction is very expensive though :/

 

what u are not understanding is the drop bracket lifts keep all your factory geometry in tact! wich is best for longevity and ride comfort.

 

no u do not get extra suspension travel. that is a major misconception. only way to get more wheel travel is getting a long travel kit. this includes longer upper and lower control arms.

 

I fully understand the possibilities of what can happen with the cv's at higher angles. I want offroad functionality not OE specs and a lift that does not perform as well....

everyone like something a little different though....

 

sorry, I should have clarified when I said suspension lift I meant a full kit. As in new coilovers/ucas/leaf pack/rear shocks. So is a mid travel kit a misconception?

 

I do appreciate the help in learning which lift to go with!!

 

So if you had a 4x4 and decided to disconnect the front drive shaft therefore turning it into a 4x2, could you install the 6" lift without cutting the crossmember?

To be honest in my researching both the 6" and 3" lifts have their good points and bad points.

For me, I think the 6" lift would edge out the 3" lifts easily, if it weren't for the fact you have to hack up the frame to pieces and a couple other issues.

No matter how you decide to lift, it's always a compromise.


6" lift pros for me

1. Able to fit 33x12.5 tires with essentially never rubbing if at all. I persoally doubt I would ever run larger than 33's.

2. Better approch and departure angles, without using a body lift.

3. CV joint angles are not all screwed up like when lifted with 3" lift.

4. Unless I'm not mistaken, you don't loose downtravel like with 3" lifts.

5. Easier to align (I'm guessing)


6" cons

1. Hacking the frame

2. Higher center of gravity (this personally doesn't bother me)

4. Crapier gas milage if for no other reason than worse aerodynamics.

5. Loose some ground clearance but your bumpers are still higher anyway.

6. Being able to fit bigger tires would be too temping and regearing would be a must.

7. Getting in and out of the truck could be a bitch for some (me I dont care).

8. Driveline shudder I keep reading about (this does bother me).

9. Cost... I can get a Fabtech basic installed for about $2,220. Since that's a gettho lift you'd have to tack on abother 1,000-1,200 for coilovers. Need 17" wheels if you don't already have 17's. So thats new wheels and tires, We'lls say 2 grand tops. Now if the tires you bought were over 33's then you can figure about $1,500 to have a shop re-gear.

Despite all the negatives with the 6" lift, if money grew on trees, I didn't have to hack the frame and if not for the driveline shudder thing, I would go with a 6" lift, with all the stuff to do it right, coilovers, wheels, gears, etc.

 

I am new and have been trying to search...so dont flame me... I have been running the 6" pro comp stage one kit and running 33 inch tires. I just upgraded to the stage 2 kit that uses a 2.75 inch coilover and I also upgraded to MX6-R rear shocks...should I consider getting a total chaos UCA....do I need one?...will it help me? would having an after market UCA allow me to max out the coilover? Thanks for any and all advice

 

x2... I think 3 to 4 inches of lift is perfect! I mean why not just get the 4" Camburg Spindles with a Deaver Pack? Prolly cost the same as a 6" lift after install and everything else. Plus, all you'd have to buy then is extended brake lines and do a lil trimming inside the wheel well so that your tires don't rub the plastic...Thats what i'd do if I had the loot