Looking for my FIRST Tacoma..I Got Questions& Lookin for Advice

Im looking at a handful of Tacoma to choose from. All first generation's. This will have 4wd(a must). Ext cab preferred, but regular cab will do. Manual preferred but automatic isn't out of the question. Im looking at something with around 100K(Cant afford new, but its all good). Not planning on hauling things, but the bed could get loaded down with gear/things. Some questions I have:

6 vs 4cylinder? Better gas mileage, right? By how much?
Will a 4 cylinder with a topper and maybe a basic Bambi Killer do ok on big (Colorado) mountain passes? Or will it creep and struggle?

Upon buying something with 100K, what should I really check into? Timing belt change? when are they due to be changed?
A 4x4 engagement test for sure.
If its a manual, any clutch issues I should check for?

I plan on doing a complete fluids flush and a tune up after my purchase, among anything else.

Any other ideas or advice would be very helpful for my first time Toyota purchase.

 

I prefer automatic, so I got the v6. I'm getting between 14-19.5 mpg, depending on how cold it is. I expect to get at least 20 mpg when spring arrives, maybe even a little more. The 2.7 probably would get 2-4 mpg more on average, depending how you drive. As for power, the 2.7 is pretty peppy with the 5 speed. The v6 has a timing belt and the 2.7 has a timing chain(no maintenance). The v6 is supposed to be every 90k, but people go longer sometimes. I myself, have 207k on the original belt. If you go far from home, then I would recommend replacing it, along with water pump, tensioners, pullys, and seals. Replace the spark plugs, pcv valve, diff fluids, fuel filter, and air filter. My advice is be patient. It will take a while to find for a good price in good condition, but they are out there.

 

I agree with Breno -- Take your time in looking for your perfect truck. There are deffinately deals to be had if you check forums/craigslist often over the course of a few months.
As far as reccomendations, if you aren't planning on towing much and you dont feel like you need to be first off the line when the light turns green, I would suggest going with the 2.7 but I cringe everytime I take my 3.4L to the gas station. But maybe thats just because I'm cheap by nature. I do however tow with my Tacoma and I wouldnt consider getting the 2.7 unless I had a larger truck aswell. But I would definately say if you go with the 2.7 then to get a manual trans. You'll be able to get a bit more power out of it.

I just replaced the clutch on my Tacoma. It was a bitch as it was my first time doing so, but if I have the time and a garage next time, I will be doing it again on my own in another 150K miles. My original clutch went out at 135K miles but I dont know how the previous 2 owners drove it. I did teach people how to drive a manual with my truck though. There isnt too much you can look for to see if you have a faulty clutch other then to see how it feels while driving it. Does it engage quickly? If the clutch is loose, then youll have to replace it sooner rather then later. If you have more then 100K on the original clutch, plan on replacing it within the next few years. Keep an eye on parts occasionally and see if you can get a deal on the clutch for when you have to do it. The original OEM manufacturer for the clutch is AISIN, like most other parts on the truck. I paid $215.00 for my clutch kit shipped. Take Brens advice on the timing belt.

You have the right mind to change all the fluids. I'd go synthetic with everything but thats your call. Look into doing the Deckplate mod and the Grey Wire mod. You'll get a few HP in a 'throatier' sounding throttle. With my 3.4L, you can really hear it above 3000 RPMs. The Grey Wire mod will allow you to use your eLocker in 2Hi. I hardly use it, but it has come in handy a few times. Both mods are cheap and you can do them for under $20. If you're crossing any water, be sure to raise your differential breathers. Make sure you grease the u-Joints often (every oil change-- more if you wheel). Try and stick with a lithium based grease. The 4x4 models should all have zergs, the pre-runners dont come with them from the factory.

Beware of "Axle wrap". If the rear springs are saggy, youll be annoyed when you do a quick acceleration. Search for it on the forums. Other things to be concearned about are the speedometer if youre OCD. Chances are it will read a bit faster then you are actually going. (reads 75 when you are going 71mph) Thats all I can think of. Try and get an ext cab. The extra space for storage in the back of the cab comes in handy. Check out the 1st Gen buyers guide if you havent already. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/156943-1st-gen-tacoma-buyers-guide.html

Good luck!

 

Assuming you are in Colorado, here is the best advice you will get: If you are looking at a 2000 -2004 Tacoma, make sure it went back to the dealer under Limited Service Campaign 90 -D. Make sure the frame was coated/weatherproofed/salt proofed whatever. Make sure your warranty on the frame was extended to 15 years past the manufacturer's date.

 

Can you explain the "Limited Service Campaign 90 -D"? A recall to do with the frame?

 

google is going to be your best friend in this situation for pics and more details, but short of it is that first generation tacomas have a problem with frames rusting out. I didn't research this myself when I bought mine, and we discovered a few months after I got it, that the frame had holes in it that weren't visible during inspection. Toyota has a 15 year warranty on this where they will just replace your frame. There are a lot of people and techs making it clear that toyota will only replace the frame if the previous owner of the vehicle took the truck in to have the frame treated for rust during a specific time frame several years ago. You can't just look for a rusty truck, buy it cheap, and take it to toyota to have them rebuild for free basically. So to be safe you should be looking at the frame as one of your highest priorities. If it's rusty, have it inspected. Or better yet, avoid.

 

In the first gens, regular cabs were not available with the 3.4 (2.7 only).

If you want manual locking hubs, then you'll have to limit your search to just the 95.5-2000 model years.

 

Exactly what Beargram said. DO NOT buy a Tacoma without confirming it was taken in under the LSC 90-D if the vehicle was subject to the LSC. Call Toyota Care, give them the VIN and have them check to see if it was to be inspected and MAKE SURE IT WAS IN THE TIME FRAME THEY ALLOWED. Trust me, this is worth the time to check this. Avoid any Tacoma that should have been inspected but wasn't regardless of condition or price.

 

Yeah. Just looked a little '02 taco 4 banger and asked about if the frame was inspected. They acted like they didnt know about the frame rust issues.


I was a little weary.

 

Are worn leaf springs something that can be seen by the eye? Visibly at the springs themself? Or rear sag in the vehicle?

Any kind of performance test?

Im curious every time I look at a set.

Thanks

 

Was that at a dealership ? If so run from that dealership ! They are hiding something from you or the salesman is new an ignorant as all get out. You are in Colorado, right? I am sure that qualifies as a cold weather state but maybe not. The LSC was only 2 years ago so they shouldn't have forgotten about it plus I am sure they replaced a few frames and fattened their pockets. This was a huge deal for Toyota.

My truck was inspected and told everything looked good just 2 years ago. However, that was a courtesy inspection only since I missed the deadline by 6 weeks for the treatment. We had a very mild winter here in Northern Indiana last year, maybe 1 - 2 snowfalls. So in just 2 years with minimum road usage I have holes in the frame above leaf spring shackle.

I can't stress enough to get the VIN, call Toyota Care and have them research it to see if it was part of the LSC D-90. They will help you.

Just keep in mind that there is a lot of speculation that even if it was treated with the rustproofing, your metal in any 2000 - 2004 Tacoma may have already been compromised and this treatment is just a band aid on something that needs staples. The metal is just inferior for some reason. Just hope if the frame rots out, it does within the 15 year warranty.

I am not bitter on Toyota because it was my fault I missed the campaign and they did take care of those customers that didn't but I would personally avoid any 2000 - 2004 Tacoma from a cold weather state that uses a lot of salt on the roads treated or not. I would look for one that had a frame replacement.

 

Thanks for all the advice on this rust issue. I will be calling Toyota Care about any further vehicles I will look at in the future.

I did run from that dealership... greasball salesman

 

The did make regular cab first gens with the 3.4. They were available from 95.5-97

 

Yeah thats good observations. This truck I looked at the other day, the interior was trashed. Mud everywhere and a bag of trash in the front seat. If they aren't keeping up the interior, what about routine maintenance on the engine? Probably not...

 

Well, the wait is over. Bypassed the rust issues and pick myself up a 2008 regular cab, 4 cylinder, manual tranny.Base model. Left all the bells and whistles behind. This thing is a blast to drive. Very torquey. Just switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-20 today. Last week new Hankooks Dynastars(very sweet look and performance) Next is fresh plugs(NGK laser iriduims). Got a "above cab height" A.R.E. topper ordered!!

Thanks everyone for all the advice and things to watch out for buying a Tacoma. Ill be frequenting for more advice Im sure.

 

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay and how many miles.

 

104K. 10.5$