Long Travel BS Thread

Thanks for the advice!! I looked at the performance series but they're out of my price range for now, Is this better?

Hobart 770700 Auto-Darkening Welding Helmet

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378YMOW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I also swapped the gloves out, good call on the one size fits all!

 

shawn, check craigslist around you for a miller digital series. my buddy scored a digital elite for 40$ brand new in box.

 

It's kinda one of those things you should just pony up the extra money now. Ebay has the miller helmets pretty cheap. I swear by miller, others like jackson or speedglass. My original miller elite lasted 9 years of everyday use. The new digits series helmets are even faster, have grinding mode, lots of sensors, etc.

 

I am a hack welder compared to the guys in here that do it for a living, but I will second their advice on a good helmet. Being able to see what you're doing is critical to putting down good welds.

 

hopefully you guys have some advice for me. I've had my tc kit on for about a month now, and every time i go offloading i knock my toe out i understand it can happen, but why every time, just though it would be from big hits?

What are my options, ill be out adjusting the toe, yet again haha.

 

loose steering? bad rack? bad heims/tierodends? how about play in the spindles , uniballs?

did you weld your cam tabs?

 

You need tc can tab gussets....so glad mines solid mounted...never changes

 

haven't done the cam tab gussets, but they have been marked with a paint pen for now and haven't moved at all... i just feel like my toe should come out so much. I'm not heim because i was worried about blowing the rack out constantly but now I'm wondering if i should

what would a bad rack / ends do to knock my toe out? more play makes them move more so more momentum to bend?

 

He also has maxtrax spindles too guys.

 

so does anthony...

 

Just letting them know

 

i know, haha i was just clarifying

 

Who needs long travel....

http://youtu.be/Prvu4RifEQ0

 

Love the music

 

Along those same lines I was surprised at how well these little bastards hold up in a pretty violent crash... very survivable, shocking



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUcmCTQKoJA&feature=player_detailpage#t=1

 

Every smart car involved accident I've ran that had speeds over 45mph has been a fatality, frame holds up but it has zero crumple zones, passengers receive the full force of impact

 

If your truck is ending up toed out, it can be the coil bucket towers/frame bending in, effectively shortening your upper arm which then effectively lengthens your tie rod, pushing toe out.

Also there is a little play between the stock cam tabs and the cam side to side, especially when they start bending. It can look like the cam is clocked right but it could have moved sideways slightly, it doesn't take much to change your toe.

 

Very sound advice. This happened to me, the passenger side shock tower is bent in about an inch. The best thing to do is an engine cage, but gussets will help (be sure you bend your tower back to "normal" before gusseting. I would also advise tack welding your alignment cams once you get the alignment correct. Even with TC gussets, they still move.

 

Yeah I was kinda thinking where does all that energy go seeing how they could still open the fucking door but like you said with no crumple zones & frame remaining rigid , it has to transfer somewhere , to make things worse those little shits kinda haul ass too....

 

Yeah. Kind of like the cars of the 60's and 70's. You could smash them into stuff, scrape the bodies out and resale the still running, minorly damaged car. Whereas with most modern cars, you practically total them with small fender benders, but injuries and fatalities are much less common.