Piece-by-Piece upgrade...

My truck has the Entune Audio Plus w/out JBL.


I have a Kenwood DNX9980HD out of my old truck and will be adding that to my 2014 DCLB as soon as they come out with the no splice harness adapters, and at this rate it could be awhile, no one seems to be putting them together for the 14s. I have no intention of cutting my factory harnesses. So, I want to purchase everything else and install what I can in the meantime.


I imagine that most everything is the same as the 2013 except the back-up cam is now displayed in the HU. Does anyone know how this changed the HU wiring/harness connections?


I would really like to buy a plug-&-play speaker kit, something known to fit well and sound good. Is there a known good alternative? I know ********* does have front and rear speaker kits but I am not familiar with the speaker mfr so I am hesitant to go that route, but the plastic mounting plates look good!


My intent is to use the factory wiring and just replace the speakers. In the past I have been partial to JBL and Boston Acoustics speakers and I still consider them a premium choice but I know things move on...their product prices have quite a wide range on Amazon, so I'm not really sure.


I do not want to remove the factory storage or modify it appreciably but a small self-powered sub behind the passenger rear seat would be perfect because the baby seat is there and I can't easily move that so that storage area is never accessed and won't be for a few years...perfect place for the sub, if there is one that will fit there, too bad I didn't get the factory JBL system, at least the sub would be perfect for my needs...


I have no intention of having an amp, if I can at all help it, I didn't have one for this HU in my Dodge MegaCab and it had great sound, just no sub...


I want to retain the steering wheel controls, BU cam, and the USB connector that is below the factory HU. I just don't want a tangled mess of hacked up harnesses.


You audio gurus, please step forward if you can!


I have searched and read, so I have seen many topics similar to mine, if I have irritated some of the masses, I apologize! I just want to get my system right the first time...

 

Any comments or suggestions from anyone?

 

I don't know much about the 2014, but I have read a few threads where people said the backup display moved to the HU. I don't know if the wiring has changed either.

********* is your best bet if you want an all-in-one package. Image Dynamics are great speakers and are known to produce a good amount of midbass impact. I'm actually thinking about putting a pair of separates and coaxes in my wife's CRV. Well worth the money. I have an Image Dynamics 10" sub in my double cab and it sounds good. Wish I could fit an IDMAX in the truck.

It will get a little tricky trying to retain the factory wiring with separates in the front. The passive crossover should ideally be mounted in the car (i.e. not door) and I'm not sure if there are four wires coming from inside the cabin to the door. I ran all new wiring so this wasn't something I checked.

If you can afford it, I'd recommend this JL stealth box. It fits in the passenger's side storage compartment and has room to mount an amp. I heard a 10TW3 in a car and it sounded really good. I was always skeptical about shallow mount subs, but this one made me a believer. http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-toyota-tacoma-double-cab-12-up

I was able to retain the factory steering wheel controls with an interface adaptor. I used the PAC SWI-RC on my truck, but an Axxess ASWC-1 on my wife's CRV. I prefer the Axxess, because you don't need to install a resistor. For the PAC SWI-RC, I had to install the resistor between the factor wiring and the interface module, which meant I had to solder wires in my dash - major PITA. With the Axxess module you still need to tap into the factory harness, but no soldering required. Had I known the Axxess was much easier to install, I would have used it over the PAC.

Axxess also makes an adaptor to connect the factory USB jack to a normal HU USB input. The factory Toyota plug is not your standard USB, so you need some sort of adaptor. I believe the part number was AX-TOYUSB.

I really don't know what kind of backup cam connector Toyota used on the 2014. Hopefully it is your standard RCA composite connector.

Sorry for the rushed response (i'm at work), but check out my install thread for some of the parts I used.

Good luck!

 

Thank you ike! I will take a look at your install for ideas. I really like that sub, I will be getting one... The cost plus the amp is pretty high, so I guess I am on the hunt for a deal on one.

 

Taco tunes is rolling the dice - maybe you'll get your order, maybe you won't

 

Yeah, I have read that some have had issues with them...

 

Here is what I did in my 2013:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/307606-my-2013-complete-stereo-upgrade-costs.html

I used the piggy back clamp on connectors so i would not ruin the stock wires. If you run new wires, you will only use 3 or 4 wires anyway.

 

I am struggling with the choices for this upgrade...

I ordered a JL Stealthbox, so the process has begun.

I just had a long discussion with a guy from Crutchfield and the guys go-to speakers are Kicker for some reason, He kept going back to them, and I would never buy any kicker product...

"IF" I don't have to use an amp for the door speakers, I will buy a mono amp (JL JX500/1 is an option) for just the Stealthbox. "IF" I have to amplify the door speakers (I don't want to...) I "think" I want to get a multi-channel amp for all the speakers.

I kept asking but the guy couldn't answer, is there any benefit in having a dedicated amp for my Stealthbox?

I want good quality, good sounding speakers along the lines of JBL, Polk, Boston, etc. I'm not looking to spend $2k on door speakers (Focal) but I want it to sound good, and yes I know that is subjective... My Dodge Megacab with my Kenwood DNX9980HD sounded great with 2 or 3 way 6X9 JBLs in the front doors and 6" Kenwood speakers in the rear doors. It was close to the best sounding audio that I have owned in a vehicle. I had no amp, they ran off the HU with OE wiring. I want to do at least as well with my DCLB.

If I have to run everything on an amp, tell me and I'll just do it to get good sound. Also, tell me if I need separate amps (please explain why, if you can).

This is the really subjective part, what are specific speaker combinations and ancillary equipment that you run that sounds great?

I'm nearly cross-eyed from looking at reviews and I don't feel that I have gotten any smarter...

I want components in the front door but not in the rear.

Until there is a harness adapter for the 2014s avail I guess I need an LOC (LCi6?).

I don't even know what else to ask...

Thanks guys, I appreciate it!

 

Everyone says running adedicated amp for the sub is the right answer, but I am running a 5 channel amp and it is wicked loud. I recommend amping up the door speakers as you do not want lots of bass and no guitars.

I felt the same way about Crutchfield (supposed "experts") and reading product reviews. Seems to me most products on the market are fine, even though people seem to be super loyal to the only product they have tried and hateful to other brands they have heard about. Crutchfield guy I talked to had no idea about wiring for the 2013 and no idea of who to go to for help.

I don't think you need the LCi6 since you are replacing the head unit. So long as your unit has pre-amp outs, you should be OK (unless you are a major audiophile).

How much was that stealthbox? They seem pretty pricy.

 

Thank you for the comments, it might be awhile waiting for the harness adapters, so if I want to use the SB I will have to have some sort of LOC.
The SB was way too much in my opinion, but it is exactly what I want...$578 after reward points and the discount currently being offered.

 

YIKES! That is a lot of scratch. I got my dual 10" sub box for $90.

Why wait on a harness adapter? Just use these:

$20 Install Bay 3M Scotch Lok Connector 16/14 Gauge - 100 Pack (Blue)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200422&pf_rd_i=507846

 

I'm just not a fan of creating corrosion points, but at this rate I may have to consider it...

 

Here is my list so far, I am missing a means of using the factory Back-up camera but, I am working on it:


Metra Dash kit: 95-8235B

Metra Wiring harness:

$5 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

70-1761

Metra Antenna adapter:

$11 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable - Select 2009-Up Lexus/Toyota

40-LX11

Metra Steering wheel interface: AXXESS ASWC-1

Metra USB Adapter:

$9 AX-TOYUSB - USB-Auxilliary Retention Harness - USB adaptor to retain the OE USB in select Toyota vehicles

AX-TOYUSB

VAIS Shark Fin Antenna Adapter:

$60 SFA12M Shark Fin Antenna Adapter, SFA12M

SFA12M (I just learned that this will not work on the 2014...)

JL Audio Front Speakers: C5-650

JL Audio Rear Speakers: C5-650X

JL Audio Speaker wire X3: XC-BCSC16-25

JL Audio Amp: XD700/5

JL Audio Amp Install Kit: XD-PCS4-1B

JL Audio Amp Remote Level Control: HD-RLC

JL Audio bridging y-adapter X2: XD-CLRAICY1F2M

 

I forgot an item:

VAIS Shark Fin Antenna Adapter:

$60 SFA12M Shark Fin Antenna Adapter, SFA12M

SFA12M


**I just learned that this will not work on the 2014...**


Since there really is very little difference between the 2013 and the 2014, there is no reason not to order everything up and do the install.
I am doing some more research on my speaker choices and then I will order them and the amp. Everything else is on the way.

 

there is no real reason for having a multi amp set up. there are pros and cons.

pro for running multiple amp.
1) dedicated power to the sub
2) if you have multiple amps if one cuts out then you have the other. Usually the sub cuts faster due to load.

con's
1)gets expensive depending on sizes and brands

I have had multiple systems and iterations of each. I like the simple set-up of a one multi channel amp

 

Thank you! I have pretty much decided on one multi-channel amp. The one I listed is likely the one I will get but I am thinking of a larger one to better cover the door speakers...

 

that is a nice amp. I have the pdx 600.5 ready for mine

 

Everything except the amp install kit and the back-up camera harness is on order.

Trying to decide on the amp kit, tomorrow I will figure that out, I hope!

 

Got a good start wiring up the Kenwood harness to the Metra harness adapter, steering wheel control harness and the brake bypass.

That steering wheel harness is a bear! It is also different from what I have found in other threads:


ASWC-1 red wire to red wire on metra radio harness

ASWC-1 black wire to black wire on metra radio harness

ASWC-1 (This is what was different...) Blue/Pink wire to truck SWC harness purple/white wire

ASWC-1 black/greenwire to truck SWC harness yellow/black wire

Truck SWC harness white/red wire to black wire on metra radio harness

Still waiting on the eBay guy to source parts for the Back-Up camera...
Can't decide on an amp install kit or RCA cables.

 

I took out everything out of the back seat and started the Stinger Roadkill install:



Not the best picture, it was dark... I used Isopropyl Alcohol to prep the surface. This is my first time installing any type of sound deadening so I am learning as I go.

Tomorrow I will finish and install the Stealthbox.