Tacoma Audio Endeavor

I'm finding it hard to believe that 150db was done with a single 8" driver in a sealed cabinet. Possibly a ported cabinet as it controls cone motion at the tuning frequency and adds 3db or more at tuning. But a sealed cabinet likely isn't your best bet.

Regardless, most of the beefy 8's on the market like the Alpine Type R's and ID8's are great for this type of build. The mounting depth is quite limited so shallow is better. I'd tell you to do something like that vs the Sundown 8's just due to power and SQ criteria. I believe SQ is the highest priority. With my build, I only had 500watts on tap so terribly inefficient subs weren't high up on my list. The ones I used aren't the MOST efficient subs ever (hey, they're 8's after all) but they aren't horrendous.

 

And if I was in the Tacoma with a 150db sub setup I'd be dead. I'd never hear anything again. But if that's your jam (pun intended) go for it!

 

Nice build dude. That ms-8 looks familiar. Didn't I buy one from you?

 

By "sealed on the dash" it means windows up and doors closed with the Termlab sensor on the windshield. Enclosures are usually small ported boxes tuned to the high 50s-60 hz zone with massive amounts of port area. They're basically one note wonders and mainly just about chasing numbers on the meter at audio competitions as they are not musical at all. However that is not reflective of the woofers themselves, the offerings from these companies (DC audio, Sundown Audio, Atomic, American bass, etc) are great. I've ran the Sundown SA8v2s in my taco and despite their relatively low 1W efficiencies they get moving pretty well even with low amplifier resources sounded great and had fantastic lowend capability. Also have ran Digital Designs 1508s and 2508s and I was ultimately unimpressed with both subwoofers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj5xchz6XoQ

 

Yep. That Bit.1 I you traded me still rocks out. Even after "the flood".

 

Weren't me.. Never had a bit.1. You might be thinkin' of Erin or someone. Actually I think it was Autiofile I might have gotten it from. Getting you guys confused. It's coming back to me, you were using the same TB drivers in a speaker design that I picked for the civic mids.

But I've been rockin' the MS-8 no issues in the Civic since way back when through the W6-789E's.. However, I fear I've smoked the left front mid, but not to be a thread hijacker. Those drivers sound killer but rated for low RMS. Gotta tear into it and test it out to see if it's the driver or baffle or something.

But considering moving the MS-8 over to the new taco. My wife's gonna kill me if I go tearing into the sound system on this truck, but it looks sooooooo inviting for a nice 2-way + sub. Must resist!

Got some uber cheeeeezy Massive Audio RK6's sitting unused on shelf with those big honkin' kevlar mid drivers that are probably the better part of the kit. Maybe a solid low-reaching tweet in the stock location.. NVX SB Acoustics ring radiator driver maybe? Add box between rear flip-downs with a solid 10". I fear the stock touchscreen, as lovely at it is, will be the weakest link. That's the thing that gives me pause, though I'm sure the MS-8 was made for such challenges. Though the OEM speaks are crappy, the head unit "seems" to put out a fairly decent SQ by OEM standards. Two bad it's speaker level I bet, unlike the Civic's OEM balanced line level outs.

NVX amps should be hitting my door today so I'm feeling itchy to tear-down and wire something.

Hijack over. Hope your Clarity speaker venture is going well and all the best!

 

This is not always true,
There is a guy with a mazda 3 with less than 350Wrms clamped power that does a 150db on a Tl meter, so no, not tons of money at all.

I personally don't build SPL set ups but more so bass race set ups.
For example, if you had the space to sacrifice in say an extended cab and don't need the rear space you can get 4 12s and 2 1800 wrms amps for under $1000, and if you have the towing package, the proper wiring upgrades and had 1 extra group 31 battery will kick total Butt. Anyhow, there is nothing wrong with having a little extra thump. The sundown 8 inch is a beast and sound very good in .5-.75 cube sealed box and you can run 2 of those off a 2kw in a MUSIC box lol

 

I'm in the process of making this happen in my truck. I'm trying to avoid cutting the lip so my new idea is to mount the lid UNDER the lip that you cut. This makes sealing a bit tricky, but prevents cutting the metal. I'm not sure why I'm avoiding the (most likely) inevitable, but I'm trying not to do anything "permanent".

Did you separate the two sides? I've foamed, sealed and matted the entire inside, but haven't separated the compartments yet as I'm still trying to decide where the lid is actually going to sit.

I'm using 2 Fosgate P2 8's to match the 2 I already have in a ported box BEHIND the seats. So I'll have 2 ported 8's and 2 sealed 8's.

Any constructive criticism? I'm open to experienced advice.

 

I'm just gonna say, don't do it. Bad idea

 

Which part????

And why?

 

Because;

Blah blah blah, cone area. Blah blah blah, air space. Blah blah blah, cost vs results.

 

Well there isn't much room behind the seats so I can't see the ones under them being any worse. There isn't a handful of options for enclosure locations in these trucks so I'm making use of the only spaces available. The cost of the speakers isn't going to break the bank anyways...

 

I was referring more toward the cost of the time involved vs a traditional enclosure behind the rear seats. There is actually a lot more room behind the seats than under them in our trucks. And in terms of monetary costs, one 12" sub woofer will be more efficient than two 8" drivers. The difference is in the cone area. A single 12 still has more cone area than dual 8's. Obviously, specific speaker selection will come into play here.

If you're looking for the best results, go with a larger sub, or two, behind the seats in a custom enclosure. If you want to do under seat subs for the sake of a project and having something more unique, that's awesome.

 

i was mostly referring to running 2 8s ported and 2 8s sealed at the same time. In this instance that is not a recommend and viable option.

If you had the ability to perfectly match the size of the enclosure behind the seat, and under the seat them go for it, seal it up and throw some power to them.

Ihatetacomas has 2 of our triton 8s for example and all he did was port them on 1200wrms and far exceeded any expectations. Id possible recommend porting those 8s of yours instead but as shane said, if your looking for a project and wanted something different build under the seats as well. Granted, if your going that route, you might as well sell your 8s and buy 4 10 inch SD3's on a 2kw amp end run them sealed behind the seat

 

Well I already have 2 ported 8's and just wanted to add to it, thinking 2 sealed 8's might give me a broader range of bass? I'm not looking for mega crazy huge bass. I want quality, punchy bass that sounds good no matter what kind of music I'm listening to.

 

it won't work the way your thinking, as I'm understanding you.
I don't have a ton of time to go into it right this second but I'm sure some one will chime in.

Basically the only way to do that is to say for example only not saying this is how u need to do it :
Ported plays 40-80hz
Sealed plays 20-40hz
or visa versa
You can have different "setups" play the same freq thinking its going to work.
Your better of sealing all 4 up in the SAME SPEC boxes

 

I guess I'm not understanding why it's not a good idea to run both ported and sealed in the same vehicle.

I suppose I could port them to match the rear subs if it's going to be an issue.

 

you can run ported and sealed, they just cant reproduce the same freq bandwidth or it would sound like complete @ss

 

Right, that's what I was aiming for. A broader range of bass. I'm wanting them to run at separate frequencies.

 

What are the dimensions of the storage compartment after you remove everything?