09 access cab rear speakers

Have overhead speakers for rears instead of rear door.
Anyone upgrade these as yet? Headliner removal a big deal?

 

coma09, got fed up with mine and replaced them with rear door speakers. Went ahead and replaced a few other components while I was at it. Crutchfield had no information on them and I didn't bother to even take a look at them, either. They are just dead weight now, totally disconnected from the new system.

 

was there already existing wiring in the rear doors or is that just too much to hope for

 

Hey Toyo... anything you could post as to what speakers fit, how to make 'em fit back there (any adapters needed?) and a how-to for getting the panels off in the rear wing doors would be appreciated. Many access cab guys I think would love to do this.

 

Just saw a how-to with good pics for this the other day. Lemme see if I can scrounge it up in sub threads................Here it is, it's a sticky at the top of audio/video section. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/3198-speaker-upgrade-basic-how-2nd-gen-access-cab.html

 

Excellent! Thanks for the link. Unfortunately mine is an 09 (no OEM speakers in the wing doors) so I'm not sure if the inner wing door is the same or if there are speaker wires and connectors. Having to run new wire (or figuring out how to tap the rear roof liner speaker wires and extend from there) makes it a bit more complicated. Not impossible, but more complicated.... I wonder if anyone has tried it on an 09?

 

Here's a few pictures. I'm going to try to do a complete write up when I have time. Once you pull off the plastic, there are still factory speaker holes in the doors. I didn't find any wiring, but didn't really look for it since the plan was to put an amp under the passenger seat and run new wires from there. The openings measured about 5 1/2 or 6 inches. Did a search on Crutchfield to see what size speakers fit the '08 model, and Crutchfield recommended 5 1/4 or something close to that, a little smaller than the front doors used. I got Polk Audio db5251 components and they're 5 1/4". First cut a 2" pilot hole in the plastic as near the center of the speaker cutout as possible. Mounted the speakers then reinstalled the plastic panel completely so there'd be no possibility of a mismeasurement, then lined up the grill directly over the speaker. Marked and drilled the screw holes for mounting the grills first, then cut the circle in the plastic with a jigsaw (after removing it again) very carefully so the edge would stay hidden by the grill. Mounted the grills with some black allen head screws and lock nuts from a home improvement center. Even with the baffles (thanks, Mr. Marv!) bringing out the speaker about 1 inch from the metal, there was about 1 inch gap between the front of the speaker and the plastic. I'm going to put a ring of dense foam around the speaker later to fill that. Measured off the edge of the door and the top indented line to cut the tweeter holes with a 2" hole saw. It sounds 100% better than the factory unit but already planning to add a sub. Sorry the pictures are kind of jammed together, haven't posted any before so still learning. Almost forgot, used a dynamat door kit and put a layer over the bottom opening then just stuck the clear plastic back over it. Probably could have thrown it away, but since it had a piece of the sound deadener on it I figured a little overkill would be fine!

 

Nice job, Toyo! Let us know what you do for a sub. I may do one IF I can figure out a way to mount a shallow one on the back bulkhead between the jump seats so as not to block the storage space. I already pulled the stupid rear console so I can get stuff back there and I am not going to block it up again with a sub box.


My new h/u has enough power for me (4x23w rms) that I don't want to do an amp. So maybe I'll look to see if I can tap the overhead speaker wires and run the extensions to the wing doors. Hopefully that will prove to be easier than running new all the way from the h/u. But there are air bags up there so I'm not sure how doable that will be.... I won't get to this anytime soon so maybe I'll get lucky and someone else will try it first and report?

 

That's an awesome job.... the finished product is better then the pros around here could do.
What did you do for the fronts?
Another polk component set?

I really need to do a sub as well. Plan to give up the rear center storage (2009) in my access cab and make a box to fit. Not liking any of what I see out there except the stealth box for the centre console, but that's not going to happen for those $ they're asking.

 

Thanks for the good feedback! Didn't replace the fronts yet, they sound good so far using the amp to drive them, just ran the amp speaker wires back up to the original wiring harness to connect them to the amp. Here's everything I put in so far:

Pioneer DEH-P4100UB headunit
Pioneer CDXP680 cd changer - mounted in the center storage area
Alpine MRP-F300 4 channel amp - under the passenger seat
Polk Audio db5251 - rear component speakers
PAC SWI-PS steering wheel control interface - haven't installed this yet
Dynamat door kit on inner and outer rear doors (used one complete door kit on the 2 doors)
Fatmat on back of cab (this was kinda an afterthought since I had the back panel off anyway. It was a little cheaper but I didn't like it as much as the Dynamat. It smelled really strong like asphalt but is gradually fading)

 

this is what i did for my 09

 

Bass, what kind/size of speaker is that?

 

Hey bass mechanic, read your complete write up before doing mine and was afraid to do something that complicated! It looks factory, whereas with the speaker grills showing, mine is obvious that it's not. Did you end up with a big gap between the speaker and the panel, or did you use a thicker mounting baffles?

 

Hmmmm, new mod coming. Diggin that, adds more black & would compliment the rear wet okole covers back there in mine.

 

MB quart 6.5 inch

 

yes i just made a spacer out of MDF, you can buy the taco tunes ones but a peice of MDF and a jigsaw takes only about 5 minutes to make and less than .50 in material to get the job done.
being that i have installed for some time i absolutly did not want the look you ended up with, i went for more of a factory look.
these are simple to make as you can see, you need a heat gun to soften and form the plastic and some grille cloth. i used GM style trim push pins found at lowes home improvement center.

 

One more question Bass... since there seems to be a lot of room under the panel is there a way to install something like a shallow 8" sub in there? I know it wouldn't have the proper sealing, volume and/or porting but would this work and would it be good for decent quality bass, not the thumpin' kind? If so, I might do this, replace the fronts with some good quality components, and keep the roof liner rears for a little fill/balance. What do you think? I just really don't want to use any of my access cab space for a sub box.

 

dont waste your time, they dont call me the Bass Mechanic for nothing! doing that would result in a rattling door and not much bass not to mention a hole cut in a door panel that would be expensive to fix after you find out i was right all along and it wasnt worth it.

someone here makes a door panel that will house a 10 sub in a fiberglass enclosure but the problem is its a sealed box, sealed boxes are a total waste of time, the output you get from a sealed verses ported is night and day assuming you know how to tune it correctly.
i pity the fools who so may i have seen stuff way too many subs or too large subs in small boxes.
yea it will make some bass but it will sound like crap and virtually no low end.
just because you can stuff 2 10" subs into 1 cu ft of space doesnt mean you should!

 

Hey bass mechanic, when you did your grills for your rear doors, how did you form the curve for the door profile and what thickness of material did you use? I have some 1/8" ABS and have tried a first attempt at doing it by free hand. I was quite happy with how it went but being a finicky one, not quite happy enough that I would use it. Did you just do it free hand or was there some other way to do it. I even tried to make on more bend in it to extend back further than you did with yours but because of the other curve it jus would not quite work. I am wondering if there is some way to protect the door panel from the heat of the heat gun and just lay it there and heat it up till it forms itself?

Any suggestions would be a great help as I think I am pretty much there with what I need to do.

 

the material you have is fine to use, after you cut the shape out, use the head gun on a bench to heat the plastic untill its elastic, or floppy, or how do i describe, almost ridged?

you only need to head the end thats going to be curved then with a towel press the peice onto the door panel, i would suggest not cutting the hole in the panel untill you have a grille made for this step.
lay the plastic against the door panel and hold with a towel and press it there for about 2 minutes.
the door panel being much cooler than the ABS will quickly cool the peice and at the same time retain the shape.

if you want to extend the peice around the corner you certainly could do that however i think after its covered it will look tacky as it will only make it more obvious it doesnt belong there and it will require additional pins to secure it and prevent rattles.

also when you put the grille cloth on notice that it likes to streatch in 1 direction more than the other. the key is to stretch it tight from top to bottom to it will lay against the curve and also wont bend your plastic like it will if you pull it tight from front to back of the grille. you should use little if any tention front to back so it will lay flat.
do not spray adhesive on the front of the ABS, only the back and only the areas of the grille cloth that will be sticking to the back. if you get it on the front it will stick and show imperfections. you want the cloth loose on the front so it will float and not bind on the front. it will also hide the hole in the grille a lot better if its not stuck to the front.

you do realize that you have to drille your holes for the puch pins first and install the pins in the grille before you cover it as the heads of the pins are behind the grille cloth and in front of the grille. i picked the black GM style ones from lowes because they are very thin.
you need to also drill the holes in the panel using the grille as a guide to make sure they line up.

the very last thing you should be doing is covering the grille with cloth and then once set, install the grille by pressing the exposed pins on the back of your grille through the holes in the door panel. you want to try to install the pins in their holes at the same time or it will be difficult to get the other pins to line up.