Calling all Toyota owners in the Lynchburg and Charlottesville and surrounding areas!

dummied to come on when the hood is lifted, member BeeRadd sells the kit for $35 with everything you need. Estimated time to install is about 25 minutes took me a little longer because i was biting the wires and using my teeth to strip them, misplaced my wire cutters/strippers and the PX was sold out of them. I need to go back under the hood tomorrow and wire up my cb radio (ran the wires through the firewall, which was a pain in the ass, just didn't hook them up) and while I'm doing that hide the wires better in the frame of the hood. Tried to tuck them in while I was doing it but they kept poking back out and my hands started getting cold so i said f it.

 

The gator switch is awesome.

Vayoder I got mine from Brian as well, good stuff.

 

yeah i think that is the one im gonna go with, and have the upper independent led green so the gators green haha. then do the lower in amber so when its on it will match the other amber lights in the truck.

 

So I'm trying to figure out how to wire up this cb radio to power, I was thinking of a fuse tap or the crimp on eyes. Neither of which I have in my possession and I'm about 100% sure the PX on post does not have either of them. I might head out to look on the German economy for one or the other question being if I go with the crimp on eyes what size would I need for the battery post? And would it be the same size for the grounding? For the 2nd gen guys I see a pretty decent size bolt on the right side under the truck that already has wires grounded to it that's where I want to ground at. A fuse tap would be more ideal, but I have to work with what I can find. If I do happen to find a fuse tap how in the heck does that even work, I know I could take a fuse out that powers something like the radio or something that needs power only when the ignition is on or in acc. By taking out a fuse the tap puts the original fuse at a 90 degree angle (or at least that's what it looks like), does the tap stick out higher over the other fuses for the original fuse to fit? or do i need to find a fuse with open space beside it for the original fuse to fit?

 

My CB just had an fuse inline so I hooked it straight to the battery.

 

damn I don't have one of those either, so that gives it power all the time? if I do that it wouldn't be a problem though as long as I turn off the cb every time I get out correct?

 

Couldn't see a pic, but for best results (to eliminate engine noise on your CB and LEDs emits a lot of static your antenna will pick up) ground the CB directly to battery and run the power directly to the battery with an in line fuse close to the battery side, it will save you some time because you will definitely have noise interference otherwise. BTW, what CB set up you got?

 

Yea you will always have power that way, but CB doesn't draw enough power to worry about if you accidentally left it on over night or anything

 

the LED will only emit static when on? or when off to? and I just have a Cobra Ultra 19 III with a 4ft firestik antenna mounted on the relentless fab hood mount, firestik stud mount with hardware, and a medium spring. I just recently came across the

$158 Uniden Bearcat 980 40- Channel SSB CB Radio with Sideband NOAA WeatherBand,7- Color Digital Display PA/CB Switch and Noise Cancelling Mic, Wireless Mic Compatible

Uniden Bearcat 980. I might have to switch it up.

 

The LEDs will give you interference when they are on. Also, if you are planning on HIDs for your headlights, the ballasts like to leak radio waves and will also gives you noise, I have a fuse block and initially has my CB wires there, but the noise was aggravating as hell so I went direct to battery

 

you remember what size the eyelet was to go around the battery terminals? and what size inline fuse should I look for? HIDs is on the list of to-do's, is there anyway to solve that or is it as simple as turning the headlights off?

 

I think a standard eyelet 5/16" or 3/8" is what I used to go over the bolt on the terminals. Going straight to the battery eliminated 80% of my noise. You can buy noise filters, but I've heard mixed things on those. Oh and a 3A fuse should be plenty amps.

 

alright thanks. anyone listen to police or fire and rescue radios on a scanner? I remember listening to it all the time at my grandmas house, they need new codes now though don't they? was thinking about getting one for the truck. I just downloaded an app on my iphone called 5-0 Police Scanner Lite and I'm listening to Augusta and Rockingham County fire and rescue now, I'm guessing it will only work while my phones hooked up to wifi, but at least it's working. Doesn't have a police option though, some chatter on the fire and rescue now.

 

Also, keep your antenna cable short and wind it in a shape like an 8, tied tight in the middle. Don't coil it into a circle.

 

yeah I read that in your build thread, I'll fix that tomorrow as well, to late to do anything tonight 11:13pm here. don't know if I should pull the extra wire inside the cab and figure 8 it or out in the engine bay and do it there.

 

Put it inside the cab, less chance for the coax to pick up interference bleeding from other electrical sources

 

good point.

 

Been talking to headstrong offroad and trying to figure what kind of shocks and coils going with and I will be ordering this next week hopefully.

Bilstein 5100 Front adjustable shock x 2 (F4-BE5-D558-T0)
Bilstein 5100 Rear shock x 2 (F4-BE5-D560-TO AND F4-BE5-D559-TO)
Deaver 2" AAL
OME 881 Front Coils
Diff Drop Kit
Brake Proportioning Valve Bracket Kit (for 2" lift or more)

They are great people to work with and will answer any question you have even if you have a million like I did. Hope to have the kit on within a week of getting it. Will keep updating.

 

they helped me out a lot, military discount and figuring out the cheapest way to ship the stuff over here to Germany for me.

 

Maybe that's who I should get my stuff through too.