Sway Away 2.0" Race Runner Coilovers

Hey if anyone could help me out then that would be great. I am running Bilstein 5100's set at 2.5" which are kind of stiff for me. I am looking to get some better CO's and SAW's are looking good. Does anyone have an opinion on them? Are they stiff or a pretty good ride. Thanks

 

Would also like some info on the 2.0 SAWs

 

I had 2.0 Sway-A-Way (Racerunner) coils on my old 1st gen. Loved them.

There are up there with Icon/Camburg stuff.

 

Sway-a-away makes a good product. I've actually found that the 2.5" shocks ride softer than the 2.0" versions. But just like any coil-over if you crank them up past 2.5 inches of lift the ride becomes stiff. Also the sway-a-way's have linear compression which make you feel more bumps on the road.

If you are looking for a softer riding coil-over check out the Icon's. They have digressive compression and are more street friendly.

RJM

 

I'm curious if there's a big difference between the 2.0's and the 2.5's

 

In a word, they are AWESOME!

I retrofitted non OE SAW's into my Tacoma to maximize the most allowable travel the stock control arms allow (6") and they have been nothing short of spectacular on AND off road. I can't wait to go jump my pig out in Pismo Beach this week

 

Why would there be a difference just because of the compression? And how could i find out which shock has which compression? Thanks for the info

 

What do you mean by retrofitted OE's? How many inches of lift do you have? Also do you have any more pics of your truck? It looks really good, i was hoping do make mine like that. Thanks for the info as well

 

Uhh.. I have made many MANY How To's while I have been in this forum, I actually bought the truck brand new and installed the entire lift, my rim's tires and all the LED head's, fog's and behind the grill light bar myself. Hang on. I can dig up some of my old How To's.

 

Awesome! Thanks its much appreciated.

 

The fronts might very well be at 3" of lift. I was originally intending to only do 2.5" though, but whatever.

Front SAW's:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...itting-non-oe-sway-way-coilovers-oem-use.html

Rear Fox's (There is also a sub link in there which takes you to another thread I made as a follow up to this one):

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/287933-lifting-fox-2-0-wont-allow-more-come.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/289215-fox-2-0-deavers-1-5-aal-gm-bump-stops.html

Tires:

Treadwright.com (Mine are 265/75/16 "Wardens") BFG A/T KO tires basically

Rims:

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/wheels/level_8/product/submitProductSize.do;jsessionid=Rf0KDcWgEHsD03aIQrHdLA__.dtc107?r=WASINT%7Cc%7CSeattle&pc=55509

I obviously have made more How To's, one was made about the behind the grill light setup. That one was a little bit more just steps along the way, not so much how to assemble it though. If you want any others just let me know, I believe that should cover most every aspect of the lift, and rim's/tires though.

 

Great thank you. You should make a build page! Because you seem to know what you are doing haha. Ill definitely check these out.

 

I really just should at this point, I never intended to make a "build" per say, but I guess that's just what I accidentally did along the process!

One more thing, you can always do retrofits for the fronts with different shock manufacturers (Mainly King that I know of for sure, but there is also Fox, Bilstein) You gotta make sure the specs are very similar though but even then, you may not end up getting what you wanted, or may have to rework things to get it to be just right.

 

Ok yeah that will definitely be something that I look into now. I happened to notice that you have stock UCA's with your front lift. Do you have any problems with the alignment at all? or wobbling at high speeds?

 

Hell no. Lol. I aligned mine on my own as well. As long as your Caster is 2.0*+ you will be golden. However, because Caster into Camber on the control arms from the eccentrics you want to ideally be as close to 0* Camber as possible to minimize feathering tire wear, in order to achieve that you want to be (If I recall correctly) at around 2.2-2.5* Caster in order to get to 0* on Camber. I believe it was 2.5* Caster.

I just posted a link from where to get tires on the cheap as well on the previous post.

 

Ok. Yeah I have been hearing both sides of the story. Some people don't have problems because they can get the alignment right but others need them because they can't get it right. I'm not sure if its just the place that i take it to, that they are too lazy to actually get it right or what. I'm at the point that I want to buy UCA's or just lower down the front to 1.75" Lol. Are you a mechanic by chance? Because not many people can do the alignment right Lol.

 

And I'm sorry what do you mean, in the tires comment?

 

Did it for over 10+ years, I've done everything at this point from full engine overhauls, transmissions, alignments, lifts (This was the first one I did, lol), CA smog inspections, diagnostics etc, etc if I forgot anything else.

I might throw the truck back on the rack to do one last alignment inspection and make sure that I didn't jack up the front too high though because I was pretty happy with the max I was able to get out of the control arms when I was running my Bilstein 5100's at 2.5" in the front.


Check POST #11 again because I posted up the links from where to get the rims and tires from. I think overall I spent about $2600 on the lift/rims/tires. Lol, you could almost call it a steal for all of it!

 

Oh really? Well do you have a shop i can take my truck to to get the alignment done?

 

Where in Cali do you live?