OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

I say just buy the tool. As far as the driver set, ecgs charges $45, harbor freight sells it for $30 I believe. Also google search ecgs coupons. I found a 5% coupon on 4x4 coupons.com. Helped out a little!

 

I bought the tool....its worth it

 

OK, I'm convinced that I need to try the ECGS bushing before anything else. Thanks ZSCOTT for the reminder that this occurs with late model Tacos, too. I haven't gotten any consistent information/recommendations with the hum from local service reps or shops, until I hit this site - and it's become a key source. Really, really appreciate it...

Keep you posted on the progress..

 

Hello,

I was wondering if there's a tool for removing the needle bearing that might be floating around out there. I'll pay the shipping costs and pass it along when I'm done with it.

Thanks

 

put the bushing in the freezer while your disassembling

it makes installing it much easier

 

I've got mine you can borrow. I think it's just in my garage hanging around. PM me if you're still interested.

 

I did this, then immediately afterward did another bushing without putting it in the freezer. I really did not feel too much of a difference in ease of installation. But, every little bit helps I guess.

 

I will install mine this week, I can't wait to put this issue to rest as I have spent way too much time reading this thread. Seems like a simple R&R looking forward to the results.

 

Never seen a member here from Martha's Vineyard, I have family there. Haven't seen em' in a while though.

 

Going to re-gear the front sometime in the next week or two (just finished the rear last night), and while I'm at it also take care of my leaky boots and the ECGS bushing.
I'm swapping the complete third for a 4.56 Nitro set that was used in a trophy truck for three races. I was originally planning on simply swapping the entire third as-is, however, upon removing the extension tube, I found that the teeth that the ADD engage are chipped (diff side of the ADD/extension tube). So now I'm wondering if maybe I should go ahead and change out that shaft/piece/whatever it is...?...which means I'll need to set up the gearset again

So my question, since I can't seem to find much info on it:

Anyone got info on complete front diff disassembly? How hard is it? Any special tools or knowledge needed? Something best left to the "experts"? Any particular parts I'll need to have on hand to put it all back together?

Apologies if this is the wrong thread for this question. I figured this might be the best place to start.

 

^^ Mach375, you have asked a lot here so let me try.

1. I know the piece you are inquiring about in the ADD tube. Chipped teeth lead to more chipped teeth and then broken teeth. If it was mine I would replace the piece. However, I don't know why you believe that you would have to do the gear setup again. If you pull the ADD tube you find the stub shaft sticking into the right side of the diff. It has a similar (but not the same) clip on its end like that on the CV shaft that just engages inside the spider gears. I just used a small 3-finger slide hammer and pulled it right out.

2. For other surgery of the front diff. you should know the factory service manual (FSM) calls out a bunch of special service tools (SSTs). I'm pretty hard core about stuff but honestly if it was mine and I wanted to regear or overhaul the thing I think I would take off the ADD tube and put the clam shell part in a 5-gal. bucket and sent it off to ECGS. There are those here who have overhauled the front and perhaps they can chime in on their experiences. If you do it yourself you will need the FSM which can be found on the Toyota TIS site for a subscription of $15, or there may still be one around somewhere that can be downloaded.

 

Actually, the chipped teeth I'm worried about are on the diff -- the matching set opposite the ADD tube, that the ADD tube engages. If I'm reading you right, this is the other end that engages the spider gears? If so, is that an easily replaceable part not requiring full disassembly?

Thanks for the help!

 

I'm not sure I totally understand were you are referring. I tried to post an illustration to help but I botched it so you are going to have to see this and the illustration numbers. Maybe print it:

http://utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?ccI...++(0409-++++)GRN245,250,TRN24#&ccode=&ppName=

This is how that whole ADD stuff works: the right side CV shaft goes through a ball bearing (41304L) and couples with the side gear shaft (41304F).

On the end of the side gear shaft (41304F) is the clutch hub (41434). The ADD actuator (41400) has a fork that rides in a recess of the clutch sleeve (41433). When the actuator (41400) is activated it moves the clutch sleeve (41433) to couple together the clutch hub (41434) with the stub shaft (41306F) I mentioned. Most of the stub shaft lies in the diff. where it enters the spider gears (41039A).

For reference, when you take off the 4 ETorx bolts that hold on the ADD tube, what you see is the very end of the stub shaft (41306F) sticking in the diff. that has its engagement teeth staring at you, and all the rest of the stuff listed is in the ADD tube itself.

So, the parts that you are looking at with the chipped teeth are either the the clutch hub (41434) on the side of the differential itself, or the clutch sleeve (41433) or the end of the stub shaft (41306F) that are in the ADD tube.

All 3 of these pieces can be removed and replaced without tearing down the clam shell part of the diff.

 

Stub shaft it is (41306F): remove E-torx bolts, set ADD tube aside, look at end of diff, and see chipped teeth on end of some kind of shaft.

SUPER glad to hear it's serviceable without teardown!! So I guess my next pertinent question is: How?

Thanks again for the help!

 

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/toyota-clamshell-stub-shaft-removal.pdf

this pdf write up shows how to remove ADD side stub shaft which I believe is what you are referring to. Just swap your stub into new diff and install your add tube. The gears do not need to be reset up unless the ring and pinion is broken.

 

^^Before you go after that stub shaft a thought occurred to me. All the teeth on that end of it sort of look chipped because they are beveled with facets, like a syncro, to permit engagement with the clutch sleeve (41433) while the truck is in motion. I had the same thought about the teeth being really damaged when I first saw it.

For reference, four (4) E14 (ETorx) bolts hold the ADD tube to the diff. I used various long extensions and a long breaker bar along with the E14 from this set at Harbor Freight: You can take the ADD tube off while it is mounted in the vehicle but you first got to remove the CV shaft. Also if you go in there to get that stub shaft there is a goofy thin oil deflector plate that sort of wedges in place around the stub shaft. I messed up one figuring it out so maybe get two. They are cheap.

Finally, Permatex/Loctite says that their traditional black and grey silicone gasket sealers will no longer stand up to the new gear lubes because of some new additive that is in them. "It will leak." So use their new one specified for gear lubes or the OEM orange-colored formed in place gasket (FIPG) stuff to mount the ADD tube back in place. Those ETorx bolts get torqued to about 80 ft.lbs. IIRC.

 

Thanks Chase! That will help immensely!

Taco'09: Yeah, I see the chamfer on the teeth ends. But these are most certainly chipped, positively no doubt about it. Thanks for the torque specs, I definitely needed those!

 

Just finished reading this saga of a thread, took many bored days at work to complete . I'm new and would like to thank the many contributors here at TW and Chase at ECGS.

Truck has a small lift, not sure how much. I purchased it from a friend a little over a month ago. Truck has 38.5K miles and the lift was put on at 4.7K miles. I'm having the same low pitched sound "rumble strip" vibration felt in the gas and brake pedals around 5-45 mph. The vibration goes completely away when 4H is engaged. I've purchased the bearing removal tool, race driver, diff. seal, and bushing from ECGS and am looking forward to installing the new bushing next week. Let me know if someone wants to purchase the removal tool from me once I'm done with it $36 shipped to your door? SOLD

So far I've spent about $200 to ECGS and $190 to AutoZone (I didn't own ANY appropriate tools to do this). I didn't buy a CV axle since I have access to an emergency vehicle and AutoZone has one in stock (I checked). I'm crossing my fingers that the CV Axle looks fine though.

I'll update once the work gets done, maybe next Thursday?

 

Installed today and problem is fixed. FYI I put on about 6k miles with the front end rumbling like crazy and no damage to the CV Shaft.