Anything welding

When I was running .030, I found that:

336, 19.8, 7 worked best for 3/16"

319, 18.8, 8 worked best for 1/8"

This is with 75/25 at approximately 16CFM

 

Yeah, this is where I am a little confused as well. If I run those numbers ALL I get is spitter/spatter and popping like mad. If I watch the wire as it comes out the first trigger pull will get a tiny sizzle, then it gets hot to the tip, and starts "breaking off". I know I will have to work some on settings for sure. I am evidently CLOSE since with the settings I have I get a good sizzle sound, almost zero pops, and the picture you see in my prior posting. I know I need to get it dialed in better.

 

How clean is your material? What is your stick out distance? How's your ground?

I can post some pictures up in a few hours.

 

I know it sounds stupid; but make sure that you're in MIG mode, and that you are also on the "2T" trigger mode.

 

I've posted in here before when I was looking for a welder and the help was greatly appreciated.
I've done only minor projects with it so far, but I believe I'm actually getting better.
I made this mount for a toolbox in the bed of my truck and figured I'd share it here as this is where I got my start.

I won't show my welds as they, while improving, aren't great ... they hold though!
This is the frame of my mount. Old bed frame = free steel.


I added the webbing in the middle to accommodate bolt locations.


Finished.


I wouldn't normally double post, but I have a detailed write-up here:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/315731-fabricated-toolbox-mount.html#post8193377

 

Show your welds and I bet youll start getting better. No one here will bash your welds. We will how ever tell you how to make them better. Such as adjust the heat input wire speed and travel speed.

 

I think my welder is just possessed by a demon. This evening I went back to her and reset everything and started from scratch. Yes, I was in "MIG" setting on the front panel. I set speed to 365 and the heat to 17.0. The inductance was set at 6.5 on the dial. I did select 4T instead of 2T, and when I started to weld the spitting was gone, and I got a good, SOLID sizzle with almost zero spitting. Now the technique I know I need to work on. My distance from the weld was about 1/2 inch at the most, and I tried to keep it close. (1/2 inch being the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the weld surface) I worked a little slower, and more "rocking" so that I was working BOTH pieces of metal instead of trying to stick it in the middle seam. This is what I got on the last weld of the evening.

 

OK. Tomorrow I will turn the heat down a little. trying to explain my stickout I guess is difficult. What I am saying is that the "electrode" sticking out from the tip of the nozzle (The brass .030 nozzle on the gun) is about 1/2 inch long. On the 90 degree welds I can't get it any closer because of the gas shielding "nozzle" or cover is touching both pieces. If anyone has a photo of their welding "live" it would be nice. lol. Might get some tips there.

 

A lot of that like said is just the movement you are using. It looks inconsistent mostly. When you are practicing like that make sure you are in a comfortable position and have some kind of support under your hand or elbow so you aren't jumpy. I like to do a "dry" run of where I am going to run the bead to make sure the cords are all clear and I won't get hung up on anything and then run the actual bead

 

Yeah. I don't have the steadiest of hands anyway. lol. I do get myself comfortable, and have a spot to rest my arm to TRY and be a little steady. I Just tend to be a little jumpy on my movements. This is why I am working up my skill a little better on the INSIDE of the bumper, where nobody will SEE the welds! Haha. Once I get it down to at least something RESEMBLING a decent weld, I will move to the front of the Bumper. Even if the welds are not pretty on the front it won't matter, since I plan to grind the fronts smooth anyway. The IMPORTANT part for me is to be sure I get good penetration, and a sold STRENGTH of the weld. I have already resigned myself to the fact that I am going to spend ten times the time grinding as I will be welding. Hahaha.

 

Thanks ill look into it, Are there any advantages/disadvantages to gas over flux core also thinking of picking one up off craigslist is that frowned upon or not a big deal if it looks in decent shape

 

Your travel is inconsistent I would try taking the torch and just drag it on a peice of plate without welding. You will be able to see the scratches from you motion. Try tight even circles. Also is 17.0 volts? if so I dont think thats enough heat for 3/16th.

 

I would also stop welding on the bumper practice on scrap then move on to the bumper when your diled in.

 

Yeah I was set at 19v and 170 wire speed with 045 solid wire.

Yeah next thing you know the bumper will fall apart or youll be griding away all the bad welds

 

Robot I say robot!

 

very nice!

 

Pretty nice welds.

I want to see some pics of welds that are production welds.

My hobby, building trailers, I don't have time to make those pretty welds. Time is very costly. I just need strong welds. Granted, good looking welds are most likely strong welds.

Again, thanks for the weld porn.

 

Your tip needs to be recessed inside the cup. Slide the cup out so the tip is inside give or take 1/8-1/4". You should be able to rest the cup right on the metal and weld.
Try pushing the weld if you haven't.

The last one's look like not enough heat or moving too fast.

People here are giving all sorts of advice on settings. I wish I could too. I don't remember what I set my dials at. I just know position of the indicator. I've got 25 years of migwelding and I can't even tell you the settings...pathetic.

With that said I have a hard time trimming out a machine that had digital readouts. I'm used to adjusting by position of the dial.

 

The nozzle on the 211i cant be adjusted its threaded, it shouldn't stick out but should be flush.