The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

The vinyl wrap will be pretty durable. It will definitely hold up to pinstriping and brush, at least well enough that your paint won't be damaged. But a good wrap will cost more (usually) than if you painted yourself.

 

Yep, good wraps start at about 2500, wrapping it yourself will be around 800-1000 and a good paint job could be like 5000+. Wraps hold pretty well though. Its all the rage down here right now. Derp does not hold up well at all.

 

I'm down 25 pounds since I saw you last.

Not much muscle forming either for being in the gym for 3 weeks

 

Does it matter if he needs it

LOL he said done lol

what a joker

 

lol

 

Nice!!

and you gotta burn off de fat first haha why your loosing weight. Once you start to see yourself gain weight again, that means more muscle mass is developing. Takes longer then 3 weeks..around 6-8 you'll see muscle start to build and gains in work outs...depending on what yoru doing..

My buddy painted his mustang himself. Turned out fantastic. But yes, took him SOOOO many hours to prep it right...and he did everything like a pro to the T so..probably did a big more then what you did as he like totally disassemble the car to do it..but it turned out great.

What??? for a 1st gen you should be able to get enough vinyl to wrap it for around 6-700 bucks...

And come on...id never pay to have work done to my rig haha not at this point..

Jon either for that matter...haha

 

I'm losing weight because I was an out of shape putz who longed for his old athleticism. Oh, and I met a woman

And I have no idea what I'm doing.

 

Are you sure she's a she?

 

Da ladies are quite the motivator haha

Find some friends that do or someone to help ya out

 

If she's not, then I just switched teams

 

good luck with that lol

 

Did you drive your truck before tubbing with the 35's? Would it be streetable? I want to pick them up when I get in my house but I wont be able to pick up a welder till a few weeks after

 

He has a 1" body lift too. I'm wondering if they'll fit with just my coils. I've already cut most of my pinch weld and I'm not opposed to using a bfh to temporarily "tub"

 

As I understand it, adding positive caster moves the tire a little closer to the pinch weld area. And of course, removing positive caster or even swinging into the negative moves the tire forward, towards the bumper.

IIIRC, Monte had to trim some of the wing on the elite bumpber and obviously some on the pinch weld and that is with stock UCAs. It will be interesting to see what impact adding aftermarket uniball UCAs will have as most add in like 2* positive caster regardless.

It seems no matter where you set the initial caster tho, there will be consequences. I suppose if you trim the front bumper enough and also relocate the windsheild washer reservoir you could set the caster very low or even negative but then you will compromise how it drives on the highway.

 

That is backwards of how I understand it...


To add positive caster you will moved the bottom of the spindle forward using the LCA cams and since the tire is located closer to the bottom of the spindle this will move the wheel forward away from the pinchweld and will get your more into your front bumper.

After talking with Logan (Username) I am going to use my adjustable UCA's and LCA cams to get as much positive caster as I can get. Basically raking out the spindle like a dirt bike. He said this will give the spindles a better angle for taking high speed impacts when flying down a trail and it should handle better at high speeds (offroad). I'm not completely sure how having 4+ degrees of caster will affect on road handling though.

 

No matter what...your going to rub..period. Get that through your head and just accept it if you get 33s.

However,

Biggest thing that changes how much you rub is tire width, rim backspacing and then caster.

Personally, id set the caster as close to inspec as possible I pushed mine far forward the first time and driving on the hwy sucked. Pulled hard to one side and lots of wander. Second time i told them just put it in spec, don't worry about rubbing and just a bit more hammering and cutting and it was a dream to drive on the road. Straight and no wander.

I know your considering 255/85s so rubbing will be low and mostly in the pinchweld area. So just cut off the pinch weld and then hammer the shit out of the fire wall and you will be totally fine. I wouldn't let the caster get super out of spec. You'll want it to drive nice.

Nope..not a chance in hell could i drive. I put them on and just backed out of the garage and it was a nightmare. Could barely turn at all. With a stock bumper and fenders be even worse i bet.

No way can you run them without a BL or tubing. I know Adam did but as you pointed out, he has the BL and im sure he would admit that it rubbed on bumps.

I only trimmed the bumper for the 35s..not 33s..although i did rub the bumper with 33s but only at total stuff.

either way, there is no holy grail number for any truck, too many variable's and i could still get in spec with toyota according to the tire shop with stock UCAs....

Yes worse turning, bump steer and wandering on the high way.

 

I stand corrected on which direction (away from the pinch weld) for more positive caster. I just read what Dirty Pool wrote in the daily bs thread. That guys know his shit.

And I agree with Brady that setting for as mush caster as possible is the way to go. Or at least, it is for me. On the last alignment, they got it to 3.2/3.1. It made a big difference. I'm sure the camburg UCAs contributed.

Pretty sure bumpsteer is from too low a caster.

 

It sounds like you have a little more rear lift than me but besides that there are many similarities and I am running 33x10.5-15s which is essentially the same size overall as 255-85-16s.

Here is a copy of the most recent alignment spec sheet. This is the best my truck has ever driven.

 

pretty much the same yes.

But yea you'll want nice road manners for sure.