The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Yeah, like broken wheel studs...

 

i meant long term hitch lol

like this axle. dont know what it is man. konsta knows his shit. but its like its cursed to always be a pain in my ass

 

yea least you can find another one pretty easily..hell wasn't Lauren gonna sell one or something??

or its a sign to go back to the 8.4 with an arb...lol

 

she is wanting a new housing. it might be that due the the intensity of the crash something in the third is tweaked enough that it slowly causes problems but its not noticeable on the bench. dont know how really. that think was smooth as butter even right when it was pulled from the totaled truck. maybe i just need to have it reset again with a crushsleeve and realighed.

and an arb in the 8.4 always sounds awesome, especially since konsta said he found some for like 850. but again, if i want to start thinking about swapping axles in 2-3 years, might not be worth it. dunno.

 

yea thats a good point if your gonna SAC and slap full size axles under it..or something else..might as well just hold out on the e locker.

you didn't use a solid spacer?? dude..screw the crush sleeve, get a new solid pinion spacer.

 

i did not use a solid spacer. the kit didnt come in time and I was in a rush so i ran to the toyota dealer the day before i left to find one of the few crush sleeves in boise.

i guess when i have some time ill get a solid spacer and see about rebuilding the third if that helps.

i mean shit, it still makes funky shitty noises and im going to pull it out and inspect it here soon, but the other day we got a ton of rain and i was flooring it pulling it out of places and spinning the tires and nothing ever happened. im weary of really being hard on it and it going boom but i keep wheeling it and nothing ever happens. hence why im going to open it up again soon

 

yea can't hurt. If you know something is wrong you don't want to grenade a diff somewhere...that won't be fun..

 

Here's the true poop on how the 35's fit on my truck. On the road with normal driving I only rub at full lock. And that rubbing is the tires rubbing the frame. Otherwise I don't rub at all on the road. Big driveways, and or bumps haven't been an issue on the road. I attribute that to the 1" body lift and a generous amount of clearancing of the firewall. I've flattened the pinchweld, pounded the firewall and even done a little modifying of the very bottom of the fender. So with my current setup I have no rubbing with the 35s while daily driving except when turning full lock.

This weekend was the first time I've had the truck offroad with the 35's. It was nothing crazy but a few places that flexed the suspension. There is definitely more rubbing when the suspension gets compressed further than what happens on the road. But I was surprised it wasn't worse. Enough so that I'm tempted to see if I can do a bit more hammering to the firewall and see if it clears it up. But, I'm doubtful I can get it to completely clear without tubbing.

There are some differences between my wheel/tire setup that Monty's or anybody else for that matter. First off, (it can be different for different tires but,) 315 75 R16s tend to run just a tad smaller than a 35x12.50. They're very close but the 315 is maybe .25" - .5" smaller diameter depending on the tire. Mine are 315's where Monty's are 35s so I have a little less rubbing because of that. Also, I'm running them on Factory Toyota wheels from my FZJ80. I've forgotten the exact specs, but they are an 8" wide wheel with 4.5" BS IIRC. They definitely don't stick out nearly as far as my 33's do on my other wheels with less BS, even with the wheel spacers. So the arc of the tire as the steering turns isn't as large with less BS so rubbing is reduced.

What I've learned from this? If you like the look of the FZJ80 wheels (which I do) they are a great choice if you want to run 35's but you would want to run wheel spacers to keep the tires from rubbing the frame. I am running 1.25" spacers and ideally would want 1.5" spacers. That would give the optimal amount of offset/BS to minimize rubbing as much as possible. A 1" BL definitely helps to fit 35's. Tubbing is probably still a requirement, but if you don't wheel hard you could run them on the street with generous use of a hammer.

 

Great Post Adam

thanks for clearing the air on that.

I know without a doubt i wouldn't be able to drive around town with mine without cutting at least the fender up.

I do agree with the tire size difference and the wheel offset difference. I am at 2.25'' BS with my wheel spacers at the moment. Pushing the tires out definietly makes the rubbing worse on the fenders and outer area on the body. But i only rub a bit on the frame on the passenger side at fully lock turning passenger.

so now the question is....you gonna tub

 

That looks very similar to what my buddy and I came up with for mine. The lower mounts were a rush job due to time. I plan on re-doing them and moving them up whenever I decide to finish my rear end



And thanks for the clarification on the 35's for dd duties. I think I'm going to go for it. Getting my own place means I have to start getting my own tools now too

 

Would mounting vertical be a problem due to the mounting points being perpendicular to the axle/ cross member?

 

No you could do that if you wanted too, but you'd have to run a shorter shock.

It would also change how the shocks respond and how you'd valve them.

 

The more I look at these pics of jerry's kit, the more I realize what they had to do to make those long shocks fit. Those are leaned waaaaay back. Maybe 5-6" further back than mine.

This pic really shows it. My crossbar is way forward of where this one is.

Your setup was one of those I looked closely at before we did mine. That top crossbar is sweet.

 

yea thats what you do with the longer shocks.

Lucky for you, yours ended up more vertical then stock but angled in too thus it should have keep the stock valved feel..which i suspect it has since you didn't notice a dramatic change on road manners. So you just gained travel but kept close to the same ride...

and i had thought about doing that to your cross member too..but we didn't need too haha

 

Mine are alost completely vertical, 10 short bodies, 255/70, rides stiff unloaded but I have expos, when it's loaded it drives nice.

 

I dunno. I don't really feel a need to. It's no secret that I don't really see any reasons to make a change from 33's to 35's except for looks. I like how the 35's look for sure, but it's a lot of work for just looks. But could still happen.

 

yea i know haha i will say on my rig..35s look like 33s did before the bed rack..like..33s seems small and 35s seem the right size now..

But i know what ya mean plus regearing would probably have to happen at that point for you.

I know i need to bad.

 

I don't feel like regearing is a requirement. I know I'm in the minority but driving it around with the 35's for a few weeks now it really isn't bad, even hauling the trailer. Honestly the only reason I will regear is if I pull the front diff apart to do an ARB. I'm sure it's different with a 4cyl, but I don't have a problem with the power on my truck.

 

yea can't blame ya there with the auto. You and Travis still on 4.10s.

i know for me i'll destroy the clutch if i don't...

 

x2. Drive it with the 35"s first and see what you think. I honestly didn't see much of a power difference while wheeling or puttering around town. Even being a 2.7L. Only at highway speeds going through hills did I notice much power loss with stock gears (and when that happens, I just shift down).

I'm still kicking myself for wasting the cash on regear instead of a crawl box. I really do see it as a waste, especially if you have a manual tranny. Plus, aren't you gonna change out the axles sooner/later anyway? Not to mention a turbo/supercharger.