How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Thanks.

 

Chris,
First this is a very nice and well illustrated writeup. I don't even have 3K on my engine yet and itching to replace the plugs. I just love getting dirty I guess.

I have a single question about the other bolts... Looks like some of these would require either a thread locker or anti-sieze compound. I know thread lockers normally inhibit against coorosion.

-Joe

 

Very well. Have a great weekend.

 

So I was doing the 30k tuneup on the 4runner and since I have 23,500 on the truck I decided to do that one as well. I changed all the fluids last week and tonight decided to do the plugs. Thanks for a great writeup Chris. As always you do a great job taking the edge off all these projects. My plugs looked fine but had the Denso on the passenger side and NGK on the drivers. I used the NGK because that's what NAPA could get and I live in BFE! Overall it only took about an hour and I feel better knowing everything is up to date on my ride. Again, thanks for all the questions you answer and help you provide this site and its members Chris.

 

Hi, new member here. Thanks for the excellent writeup.

I am going to use your instructions for my 4-banger; I'm sure the process is similar except that the air intake is different.

My question is about blowing compressed air into the spark plug wells. This isn't like yesteryear's engine, where accumulated dirt can blast off into the surrounding area, we're working in a well. Seems you'd just be moving dirt around in the well. Makes me wonder if blasting air down the well would just loosen the crud, but not get it out.

Secondly, the top of the well is sealed with the coil unit. So how dirty would it get in there anyway? My concern is loosening dirt up but not getting it out. Would blasting with air be worse than just leaving it alone? I notice in your original write up you don't talk about an air blast.

I think the vacuum route is probably best, but will need to modify my vacuum to get it breathing down a tube small enough to go down the plug well.

 

I would like to know what the diff is for the 2.7 when you find out. I have read all of Chris's write ups and they are excellent, but for the 6. Thanks

 

I ordered the Haynes. I have 15m, when I hit 30m I'll change the plugs. I know Toyota says 100m but I'm old school and besides I don't want them to get welded to the block. Maybe I can write it up with some help on posting the pics in the write up. Thanks for all your help in the past Chris.

 

Hi Guys. Yes, I'm new here, hope you don't mind if I "glom onto" this post. I wrote out the procedure I used to change the plugs in my 2004 2.4L, based on Chris' instructions, but modified for the little 4-banger. I put it into a PDF download to save some time.

Lots of photos. You can download it here.

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Name of Delmar O'Donnell Bolster. Bona Fide Soggy Bottom Boy.

 

Thanks for the write up! this was so easy to do!

PS On the drivers side spark plug (closest to the back) just above the top thread looked wet, the node itself was dry, could this be a sign of a problem?

 

here it is, dont know if you can tell with the pic, but its wet on the dark ring area, i think it should be fine

 

thanks again chris =)

 

Thanks for the write up Bolster . I have a 2.7 and this is the first I have seen for the 2.7. The pics were clear and make the job easy. Thanks for your time and effort.