The *Official Photography Thread*

Really nice HDR Eric. Feels pretty real to me.

 

Thanks guys!

Krazie Sj, I am using a T3i with an EF 28-135mm IS USM for that shot. What to you mean by a little more -/+?

Camera Canon EOS REBEL T3i
Exposure 0.013 sec (1/80)
Aperture f/16.0
Focal Length 28 mm
ISO Speed 100

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_image

A true HDR shows the highlights as well as the shadow detail. It shows the dynamic color range of the image

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tone_mapping

Tone mapped images are the halo looking ones, that appear to be glowing

 

I've been wanting to work on this technique for a while

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2lHQJFJ-nc

 

I've been talking with one of my waterfowl professors and the UTA for the waterfowl class (both are into photography) and we've all found that some of our waterfowl photos just don't come out very crisp, they're slightly out of focus. The UTA tried manual focus instead of auto and got much better photos, told the professor, and then the professor also got much better photos. It seems to only happen with certain colors, though. The orange-red on Robins, sometimes the iridescence on waterfowl but not always, and not the iridescence on hummingbirds. Anyone know what's going on here? It seems to be a flaw in the auto focus, is that truly what it is? Why?

 

Not so much a flaw but the lack of contrast. Canon's AF depends on good light and good contrast to efficiently focus the lens. In your examples, orange and red are so close in contrast. Same with the iridescent colors of a duck.

 

View Finder

 

Live view with some enlargement.

 

I have the same problem when I use wider apertures. The viewfinder doesn't show actual image and pretty much everything is in focus. Sometimes even when my t2i beeps telling me I'm in focus on both manual and autofocus, I'm really not. It's actually extremely annoying. Because I don't like using live view to shoot since the mirror has to make 2 montions rather than the normal single motion.

 

Ah, that makes sense! Do you have this issue?

I usually use the view finder, but I'm wondering if maybe the video screen would be better. Not sure! I'll see if I get some photos tomorrow.

Have you tried adjusting the viewfinder focus dial thingy?

 

When you go to live view, the mirror is raised. Hit the shutter and the mirror stays up and the shutter is opened.

 

Everything in my viewfinder is in focus usually but I should prob try this lol. I never touched it,

 

Hm. I remember the mirror flipping back down for some reason and it took longer. I'll check it out when I get home from work. Might aswell bring the camera out and get some shots for the weekly challenge.

 

If you turn it off to shoot, maybe. Otherwise, it shouldn't move except as described.

 

Same that's why I don't think it's that.

And because autofocus doesn't focus properly either when my camera beeps. The beep and red dots are focus confirmation on the t2i and that shit never works right for me haha.

Hm, idk I'll check later and advise my findings.

 

A lot of newer DSLR's have autofocus microadjustment, so if you find that your camera's focus is consistently in front or behind the subject you can "tune" the autofocus system to compensate for it. This setting is usually lens-specific too, so you can tweak it for other lenses and the camera will remember it the next time that lens is mounted.

Live view with magnification is the best way to ensure that the focus is accurate and where you want it. To properly calibrate your viewfinder, you can set the lens to manual focus and use live view to focus on a test subject, then turn live view off and look through the viewfinder and adjust that diopter dial until the viewfinder focus is correct.

 

I should look that up. Idk if it's back or front focusing but it's annoying.

VERY WRONG. MUCH ANNOY. WOW.

 

You can also use live view to find a good autofocus microadjustment (AFMA) value. Set the camera on a tripod and use manual focus and live view to focus on a test subject, then turn off live view. Without touching the lens, half-press the shutter and see if you get the focus confirmation beep/light. Adjust the AFMA value down and half-press the shutter again to see if you get focus confirmation. Keep adjusting the AFMA down and checking for focus confirmation until you no longer get it, and remember the low setting. Then repeat the steps except keep adjusting the AFMA value up until you no longer get focus confirmation. Set the AFMA value to the median between the low and high values that you recorded and you should be good to go.

 

I don't think the t2i has a micro adjust feature. I'll double check though. And I just read the 50mm f/1.8 II has some faulty focus issues and apparently canon will calibrate lenses for free. Mass produced lenses are individually tested and calibrated at the factory... Pretty much everything that isn't L glass.

Luckily there's a new canon HQ in Melville, NY a couple blocks from Nikon so I can just go there

 

$700 in the last 24 days good enough?