DIY: Secondary Air Filter Removal

Did mod on my 06 4.0 w/65,000 mi. Also reset ecu (I realize it has to relearn). And I use the best filter Wally World offers. I refill with 93 octane same time and place with a squirt (3-4oz) of Lucas. Pretty easy mod using the pry and pull method (my wife thought I just checked and topped off my oil). Shop vaced everything out nicely. Replaced orange box filter from WW. Reconnected (-) power wire to (-) post on battery. Let truck idle for 20 min. Grabbed Xam, the dog, and went for a 30-45 min drive. VERY NOTICEABLE! I honestly can't believe more v6 owners aren't noticing a much better throttle response on hills and interstate between 50-95 mph. I never did "floor" it from a stop, but did floor it several times from 35-80 mph and there is an improvement in response and acceleration.

 

Yeah your top end has a better air supply. It shifts the power band up a bit. But also drinks fuel like a fish in water. Try double tapping the throttle, it throws the ecm into open loop with transmission at 100‰ operational, means no drag.
Have fun!

 

The ECM goes to open loop around 3/4 throttle on any car or bike; possible exception if it's running a wideband O2 system. A double tap will just waste time and fuel while possibly confusing the transmission momentarily.

 

these autos are so touchy, Id hate to throw more sh_t in the game for them.....

what does the statement

mean tho? I just worry about these auto trannys (ok I just dont trust autos as much as a manual in general I guess)

I just drop the hammer and the trucks haulin ass from any speed.... do u have a scangauge or ultragauge? Open loop is not elusive at all.

I bet people are in open loop without having any idea how often. It seems alot of folks think u have to be full throttle, when thats def not the case.... U dont even need to be on the gas hard at all. Theres more variables than the throttle position or the speed of the gas pedal movement.

 

It's got to do with torque lock up, fuel economy is built into to the ECM. It happens in 4 and 5 gear, gives you smooth acceleration to save fuel.
By double tapping the accelerator it bypass the program and sends all power to the shaft without torque lock up. There are throttle box's that reprogram how the accelerator acts when pressed.
Its all mobo jombo, there is so many programs at work in these new vehicles, is worth messing with this hairy vajj?

Damn got side tracked again, I'm more interested in what happens in open loop operation. How the FPR and the PCM react in open loop. Something to do with pre made fuel maps and that atmospheric tube off the FPR to the intake.

Any ideas? Or info documents. This is what bothers everyone, open loop.. So let's start digging for info and figure a solution.
I sound corny.. Oh well
I give.

 

Open loop is simply what the ECU does to avoid throwing fits when operating outside of "normal" parameters.
It goes into open loop at WOT, when coasting down and the injectors go into cutoff (just enough fuel to fire the engine), and it goes into open loop when the engine is not up to operating temperature.

 

93 octane?

Are u force fed?

 

Without question.

 

The torque converter unlocks before the downshift happens, no double tapping or any other tricks required. Open loop doesn't seem to bother anyone that I can tell, it's just what the system does and there's no secret or solution involved. Open loop just means that the computer ignores the O2 sensor signal because under certain conditions it's signal is useless.

 

nice, have u been on a dyno with 93 octane and the supercharger yet?

 

What does the MAF translater from urd do?

 

Yeah I knew already what open loop was, I was looking for more information about what happens during open loop.

 

Calculated proper fuel delivery falls outside the preprogrammed tables.
It could go either rich, as it does under WOT or cold conditions, or pulsed injector shutdown as it does during coasting.

Timing advance is likely also altered.

 

OK cool, thank you.

 

my 08 2.7 has a little over 101000 on it. I think the next time I pull it in the garage that sucker is comin out I would think it must have accumulated SOMETHING in that many miles!! I will let you guys know if I notice any difference.

 

It's after the main air filter, all it could accumulate is what got past your air filter, except it's a charcoal filter that is very porous and not made to trap tiny particles that make it through the main filter.

 

It's not dirty.

It's not a filter.

It's not restrictive.

If you live in California, New York, or any other state with smog testing, you won't pass smog without it.

 

I also took out the carbon filter on my 4.0 and I noticed a slight improvement in my MPG 0.4 MPG improvement. I also took out the screen further down stream- no improvement and it was not as smooth, so I put it back. My MPG is 20.5 to 21 MPG always, with the A/C off slightly higher. Oh and I run a K/N air filter. I run the factory recommended oil and a Toyota oil filter- the Toyota oil filter makes that valve noise go away for the most part. Coming up on 70,000 miles on the OEM tires, I run 34PSI frt, and 32 PSI in the rear, the tires last a lot longer that way and I rotate them at 8 to 10K miles.

 

Open up a fuelly account and text your mileage and fuel usage with every fill-up and you'll soon see that 0.4mpg, and even 1mpg variance from one tank to the next is meaningless.
There are too many other variables including weather, traffic, emotional state, and the load in your cab or bed that impact fuel economy more.


Same truck, same driver, same roads for the most part....

 

Exactly Rich, fuel mileage is a joke. To many variables in gas consumption. I like the part about "emotional state " this is where I lose the most fuel to.