45acp’s DIVORCED build!

least something freaking happened...jesus..

you gonna fill the boat sides with UHMW?

 

Yeah, uhmw. Gotta read up more in regards to mounting, but that's the 'plan' anyway. I'll probably gusset the crap out of it.

 

Naturally..of course..

 

Wow something actually happens in the thread it's ok 45 you can post more don't be afraid we're not here to judge you on how slow it's going

 

I sure as hell am!

 

Im just glad he actually started to fix something instead of tearing more down!

 

Boat sides? How fucking deep a water crossing are you planning?

 

6' boulder and 10' rock cliff high "water"

 

Stap a out board to the tail gate like top gear did their old hilux! lol

 

Usually the uhmw is a skin, meaning it goes over the plate. The stuff isn't really strong enough on its own to bridge any gaps. I would go minimum 3/16" on the boatsides, then skin them with 1/4" or 3/8" uhmw. Prolly 3/8" that gives you enough thickness to work with so you can countersink the fasteners into it.

 

That sounds doable. I had initially thought gusseted 1/8" plate backing with 1/2" uhmw. I can always dimple die the hell out of the backing plate to reduce weight, right?

 

I think you have done enough weight reduction go 3/16th . The way you guys wheel out there you will need it

 

Haha yeah, doesn't hurt though, right? Looking for that low COG.

 

Just think about it this way.

You'll save about 2.5# per sq. ft. using 1/8" over 3/16"...not much total for the area you are plating for the boatsides.

Then consider the amount of work it would be do redo those boat sides if they turn into a raisin after a year. Is it worth it for the 20# you might save?

Also the boat sides will basically be your sliders, do you think 3/8" plastic and 1/8" plate will hold up the weight of your vehicle/hits?

Don't skimp where it counts the most.

 

1/2" UHMW would be totally fine..the stuff is stronger and more durable then your giving it credit for. It's not abs shit.

Will it hurt to do 3/16s..nah. Might as well. Already going big so why stop now haha

 

really uhmw isn't abs, maybe that's why they have different names

It still isn't strong enough to span between the legs for his supports.

3.1 ksi yield for uhmw, 36ksi yield for shit steel

Lets do some math. Look at a 6" strip of material for loading purposes.

Max stress=wL/4z

w say 2,000# (truck side held up on boatside)
L=(length between supports)
z=section modulus=(bd^2)/2
b=6" (width of strip analyzed)
d=1/2" material (for uhmw
d=1/4" for steel

so z=.25 in^2 for UHMW
z=.0625in^2 for steel

back solving using the yield for max stress and solving for L the span its good for....

1/2" UHMW would be good for a span of 1.55" without yielding and 1/4" steel would be good for 4.5" span without yielding.

Simple math tells you 1/4" plate is good for 3x the span the uhmw is.

Now if you really want things to get interesting, I suggest you take a look at the deflection incurred by those max stresses allowable, and you will quickly see why you need to have UHMW backed by steel. Especially for something critical to cab structure like boatsides.

I suugest he use 3/16" and add a little more (not much) structure behind it, and maybe get a decent grade of steel like 1045 which has a yield of 65 ksi, anything but A36. He will pick up a tiny bit of strength from the UHMW backing, but negligible in the grand scheme.

Hell the yield strength of UHMW is comparable to most woods, lol.

 

Now there will be some other things he has going for him like the tensile properties working to help since the plate/uhmw will be attached at all sides, and not simply a 6" strip being loaded arbitrarily, but I was just trying to show that UHMW has no usable structural properties when building a truck.

It makes things slick and slides nice, that's it.

 

UMMMMMMMM I need a translator... Im just here for the pictures!