No-Slip HELP!!!

Side Note:
None of the parts for the model that fits the Tacoma are slotted. The slots are only in models designed for diffs with C-Clip type Axles. Most of the Powertrax diagrams show models with slots which made it a little confusing when I was installing.

Both of mine made a noise like that on occasion. It would scare the hell out of me every time.

 

I am going back in there!!! I'll report back in after i'm done. Wish me luck.

 

No shame should be involved. I only remember because I've installed and uninstalled 2 in the last year or so.

 

One I installed in my Ranger which I removed before trading for the Tacoma in January. The other I installed in my Tacoma which I removed in favor of an ARB in June.

Best of luck. Sucks that you have to drain that expensive Amzoil gear oil.

 

went back in there.....took everything apart again.....here's what i got...

took everything out, literally.......before actually going into it, while it was still on the 3rd, i did the 'go/no go check' and it seems that one side of the driver has a little more slack than the other side.....but still cleared the 'go/no go' test....

...now that everything has been taken out, checked, and re-installed back again, being very careful and anal.......STILL, ONE SIDE OF THE DRIVERS HAS JUST A BIT MORE GAP THAN THE OTHER!!!.............although it is still good to go, according to the booklet because the "no go" doesn't fit.

i believe ^^^ is the problem!!!

i also had to lightly pound in the pinion cross shaft in. is this supposed to happen or should the cross shaft go in with just some "forcing"...???

I NEED HELP FAST 'CAUSE I DON'T WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN!!!
THANKS GUY/GALS.......Y'ALLS BEEN GREAT!!!

 

I had to tap the pinion in too, but both sides were the same distance.

Did you accidentally leave the OEM thrust washer in there?

 

no, checked them again and they are not in there........any other suggestions......

 

If I recall, there was a certain way the side gears had to be aligned to make the gears mesh right. It took me awhile to get it so I could get that pinion in. It had to do with the flat sides being lined up or something.

You got all the springs? 8 that contact the pinion and 2 springs (one inside the other) for each side?

If you are close to San Antonio I could take a look at it with you?

 

as far as the teeths, they are all aligned and connected......any more help.......beggin' like a dogg here.....

i'm in MN..............dammit!!!

 

it is hard to say much without being there. both sides should be even and the differential cross shaft should slide right in. i would take everything and lay it all out flat and check tolerances. make sure everything is even. i would also shoot richmond gear a email with everything you know. they have a great tech dept.

 

how does the cross shaft look? smooth and even? any wear to speak of? they recommend using a new shaft with installation. i didn't and mine had a bit of wear (about 140k miles). i assume that's why mine has always felt like it had a bit of slack/slop.

 

Stepped out for dinner...

Other than checking to make sure the springs are the same height, I don't know what to tell you. We know there is obviously something in the way keeping it from being even on both sides. Maybe try assembling it outside of the carrier to see what the possibilities might be?

 

Ahhhhhhhhhh........same got-dammm thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clunk clunk when turning right still!!!! And not too much when turning left!!!!!!!!!!!

What do i do now!!!!

Help!!!!

 

Usually right turns are alot tighter than left turns. Are you turning just as sharp in both directions when testing?

 

Maybe it's a problem with the way the rear brakes were reassebled or the parking break cable was reconnected? That could definitely affect Locking/Unlocking

I don't know if you had to mess with those when installing in a 1st gen?

 

i adjusted the parking brake, that's good.

now.......i never really have bled the brakes for a while now. when installing the locker, just a very little spewed.

should i bleed the brakes?

whoops, i mean when turning LEFT it CLUNKS. my bust.

also, i threw in some Amsoil Slip Lock stuff. it definitely helped the ratchetting CLUNK!!!

but it still CLUNKS ON LEFT TURNS!!! what else can you all think it can be>>>>??????

 

You should definitely bleed the brakes, because, unless you are speedy Gonzales, the brake like was disconnected long enough to get air bubbles in it. If there is more air on one side than the other the braking would be unbalanced so if your touching the pedal at all as you turn the unbalanced forces on each wheel could (potentially) cause your symptoms (more clunking when turning left).

When you give it a little gas does it still do the Left turn clunk. Both of the trucks I drove with auto lockers turned much more smoothly when I gave it gas around the corner. They were MTs though. Don't stomp it, just mild acceleration.

 

sorry, was at work.....just got back....

i'll bleed the brakes.....

also, a feller from TTORA suggested that maybe uneven tires(tread, psi, size) may be the problem.>>>...i'll rotate tires and check them....

when giving gas, i either just let the engine idle and creep forward while i turn left or give it just a teeee....weeeennnyyy little gas......and then CLUNK!!! this is the same turning radius for both left and right turns but left turns CLUNK!!!

i'll check back in when i'm done doing the above......