95.5 and 96 3.4 tacoma TURBO problem!!!

All of the charge piping is on the outside of the frame, inside of the body. There is one spot right below the elbow that goes into the MAF that is about 2" away from the headers, but it's a total non issue considering only a few inches of the charge pipes are exposed to it. I touched the part I'm talking about right after driving like an ass and it was colder than room temperature. I'm willing to bet my non-intercooled intake temps are a maximum of 10 degrees above the outside air temp. This is turning out to be VERY efficient.

 

thank god.


i was gonna you if you had run in next to it as it looked that way...lol

cool man.


videos

 

Lol yeah man real soon. I need a tune before I open her up too much. Hoping to hear back from gadget VERY soon... (Sigh :{ )
Can't wait to get well over 300 whp

 

subd

 

I guess I'll show some pics for people to use as a reference...


CHARGE PIPES IN ORDER FROM ENGINE TO TURBO








OIL RETURN. 3/8" hole drilled in oil cap and inserted a 3/8" barb x 3/8 NPT through the bottom up and clamped the hose on top to make sure it doesn't come out/off.




OIL RETURN SCAVENGE PUMP DASHBOARD ON/OFF SWITCH, INVERTED SO THAT DOWN AND CLOSED IS "ON".

 

Oil return brass fitting



I forgot to mention that the independent oiling system didn't work out. Two scavenge pumps use way to much battery juice to work reliably... even with a 30 amp fuse. I'm very upset about that but I guess I'll have to keep an eagle eye on my oil level from now on.

 

Have you had any issues with boost creep yet? Wastegate needs to be in or after bend fight before the turbo to avoid this. Also use lightest spring you can(.25 bar/4psi?) and adjust with boost controller if you want more. Take your time tuning it. Turbo is more difficult to tune vs trd sc. Good luck and keep us posted. Fyi 300whp will be doable between 8-12psi depending on setup.

 

I have heard that you can nuke pistons in as little as 600-800 ft if it's not right. I would look for non-alcohol fuel around town,,if you can find it. If not,,always 92 octane. You happen to pick up a oil or water leak on a pushed head gasket,,and bad juju can happen. A bit of mileage on that motor,,so I wouldn't get too greedy right off the bat. Watch for leaks, you don't want to go down the freeway towing a flaming fireball. Halon extinguisher would be a good item to carry. Make sure to read your plugs and info.

Subscribed.

 

Gio, what are your thoughts on charging the oil filter every change? With the OEM config, its pretty much impossible to charge the filter without having to dump it out as you try to screw it back on.

Is it that important to pre-charge? I dont know if I want to spend another $100 on a relocation kit.

 

You should probably suck it up and change the filter every oil change

 

No unfortunately the engine doesn't create enough boost yet for the wastegate to open (8psi). I knew that and installed it the way I did because it's out of the way and free of getting messed up while 4 wheelin. I plan on staying at 8 psi max no matter what since my baby is getting old but I don't think boost creep will be a problem since my charge pipes are 2" all the way up (more force in the exhaust than most setups compared to the charge air). I think I'm going to ditch this URD piggyback crap and go straight mapecu to control everything. My goal is no pinging or leaning through all levels of rpm and boost even if that means running a wee rich. It's a DD and I want to keep it that way for a long time.

 

I doubt there is a need to precharge. If that means taking it easy for a couple miles after an oil (and filter) change then I would do that instead. Nothing is going to suffer from that unless you change your oil at the drag strip then do a few runs right after. I would def change the filter every time too.

On a side note is that an XD you mounted to your knee shield on your truck? I'm totally envious of that setup My 'equalizer' is just under my foot mat.

 

What he said, minimally, but smartly.

Until you get a good handle on things,,keep it fresh. Maybe change that schedule a bit. You force turbo trash, oil, or both together thru the intake,,game over,,wallet starts to cry, again.

Pyro leads, extra temp gauges, are your friend.

That being said,,take me for a damn ride!!. choot some vid!

 

I change the filter every change and will continue to do so .

I said it would be difficult to "CHARGE" the filter . Yeah, I think the air bubble should go out within the 1st minute of idling and I dont think the turbo will be spinning that fast at idle to need a constant feed...

That said, found this:

JEGS Performance Products 51715 Universal Remote Oil Filter Mount

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WWVWQ0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30XU5Y510T9EB

I hate the current mount and I might just get this kit just to avoid crawling into my wheel well every oil change.

 

K&N oil filter dude! 1" nut welded on the end so all you need is a ratchet, a couple extensions and a swivel and it's done. Took me less than 10 min to change my oil last week

 

I only use Toyota filters .

 

Ah gotcha. Did you mount your holster to your knee panel via bolts or something else? That is such an awesome setup

 

I'm definitely not worried about a Toyota engine messing up on 5 psi, but I'm taking it very easy until I get her tuned. And I have two fire extinguishers in my back seat just in case

 

I used the screws on the holster. It was close (the screws were short) and I dont know how many threads caught, but I put some red lock tight on them and Im pretty sure I got enough for it to be solid. No issues yet.

I did it so I can carry without a stupid passenger (or wife) picking up my gun while Im driving. Before I just kept it on my belt which was very uncomfortable.

Used a safariland holster similar to this one:



Uses three screws to secure the waist paddle to the holster itself. I used those screws to secure it.

 

Double good.