more juice out of bed plug

i've read a bunch of threads on people bitching that you can't even plug in a waffle iron into the 110 plug in the bed, but i haven't seen any regarding upping the juice to that plug. is there way to upgrade to a different invert-er that would provide more juice?

 

As long as the outlet itself is rated for a higher amperage, you could probably upgrade to a different inverter. The wire to the outlet would have to be upgraded too. The existing wire is probably only sufficient enough for what they engineered it for.

 

You can slap an aftermarket 800W inverter on. I don't think it would fit in the factory location under the console. I have a 425W inverter from my old 1997 that I put in under the driver seat with some 6AWG running directly off of the battery.

The 425W does OK for charging batteries, charges up my laptop and my smartphone at the same time. It does tend to wear on the battery, when it starts cheeping before it gets into full alarm I know it's time to start the truck. The battery voltage wears down, therefore the amperage drain goes up to keep the wattage the same.

I think 800W is the max feasible for the truck with a single 27F battery. I'd like to upgrade, but this dang thing I have now just won't break.

You could put an aftermarket inverter on and connect it in parallel to the stock inverter, but again the battery drain is excessive.

 

What has been mostly stated above except the size of the battery has nothing to do with it. You use the system with the vehicle running and the alternator is powering the converter, not the battery. Also keep in mind that you are taxing your alternator with a higher wattage converter and lowering MPG also. I would suggest a small generator instead of an upgrade to your electrical system. The initial cost would be about the same and save you a lot of money in the long run and save wear and tear on the vehicle systems. Also the systems that comes with the vehicle does not put out good voltage, mine shows 108, so you are making what ever you use run hotter and shortening the life of the tool. A small generator would solve that as well as save a lot of gas.

 

Can't keep the motor running all the time, so the battery has to stand alone to feed the inverter, and there's only so many amp-hours in a battery. I agree with the generator, they're dynamite. Go through very little gasoline, lots of watts per gallon. I go back and forth from the inverter on the truck to the generator. The generator mostly I use to charge the trailer batteries. That's the only way to get it done without shore power, the 7-pin will not charge those batteries, and it takes a large solar array to do so also.

 

Thanks for the reply. My response to the OP was not dealing with trailer batteries, but his question about more voltage at the truck inverter plug. Not trying to belabor this but it did not enter my mind that people used the inverter plug with the engine off, at least for any length of time. That is a sure fire way to destroy the battery and the alternator unless it is a deep cycle battery. An alternator can come to an early grave also if it is required to charge at max or near max too often or for long periods of time.

That being said your 7 pin should charge the battery in the trailer if factory installed or installed later and all is connected correctly. Because of the long run it will not charge as fast but it should charge while driving down the road or when the engine is running. If you draw the batteries down low then it would take a very long drive, but they should be charging if everything is connected correctly. Also If your alternator is not putting out 14 plus volts then that can also be a problem as the long run of wire will lose about a volt at the trailer and you need 13 plus coming into the batteries to get a full charge. Also corrosion at connections can lower voltage. It is easy enough to check. Check the batteries with the truck not running and then with it running. The voltage should be higher, about 13 plus, while running if the system is charging at the trailer, so if all is hooked up and working correctly the 7 pin will charge, just slowly.

 

If you want juice using the bed outlet, plug in a - you guessed it - juicer. Trying to get juice using a waffle iron, now thats crazy talk.

A larger stand-alone inverter is an option for short duration 120V power, a small genny even better, but if a waffle iron is your main goal, I'd suggest a propane camp stove and one of these.

$35 Rome Industries Old Fashioned Waffle Cast Iron, Black

http://www.amazon.com/Romes-1100-Fa..._sim_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CFYB1XPAAN7YCAH2D1E.
The only thing waking all your fellow campers would be the smell of waffles, not trucks running, generators roaring to life...

 

Hey, I have to use the inverter a lot with the truck off. Using it right now. I'll have to fire up the truck I think soon to keep the voltage up. That's just the way it is.

The 7-pin, yeah that's a trickle charger. You're not gonna get a quick charge off of that. Been there, done that, froze my ass because the truck couldn't charge the trailer batteries enough to get the furnace to ignite. It can require maybe 24 hours at 3 amps DC to charge batteries, and that's about what the 7-pin provides. Gotta have 20 amp AC from a generator or 20 amp AC shore power.

 

if i remember right there was a thread about upgrading the whole circuit and inverter, will have to look a bit harder for the thread.