Any How-to's for pulling the 5VZFe ?

Can someone point me in the direction of a guide to pulling the 5VZFE from 2002 ?

Been searching for a bit; maybe I'm just not asking the right way. I can't believe that there isn't a write up on this forum.

Thanks for any help.

 

Removing the engine?

 

How to pull the motor from the truck...?

Ever pulled a motor before? Yes? so..do the same thing.

No?
Drain oil. Drain coolant. Remove radiator hoses. Disconnect accessory hoses (power steering and A/C) or remove accessories from engine to prevent system from becoming open to the atmosphere. Unbolt transmission/bell housing bolts. Unbolt motor mounts. Disconnect vacuum hoses and wiring going to the cabin. Unbolt ground wires. Unbolt exhaust (at manifold flange is usually better than taking the manifolds off). Find points to hook a chain on the motor. You will probably need to stake a bolt through a link on the chain. Have more than one mounting/hook point for chain. Use engine hoist to hook chain, pull directly up and out.
May help to remove hood, grille, and assembly if you aren't good at removing a motor.

 

Kinda like making a thread about changing a tire. Pretty much the same for all cars and kinda common sense. Just keep unbolting/removing stuff until the engine can be removed clearly and cleanly.

 

Yes, pull the motor from the truck.

No, I have not done it before and hence the question; I'm not afraid of doing it but its always nice to have some pointers like, "watch out for this," and "be sure you do that ..." etc, ... pointers that were particular to my truck.

That's one of the great things about this forum right?, we get to benefit from each others' experience.

 

It's been more than a few years, and not a Tacoma, but as other poster saaid, they are all pretty much the same. A couple tips:
DO pull the radiator. You may get by without doing it, but they are too easy to bang into with tools, etc. You have to drain it anyway and you will appreciate the extra room.
Also, watch those tranny to engine bolts. There is always one hiding up above where you can't see it and it will give you fits if you don't get it. Once the motor is ready to pull it may help to use a pry bar or such to get the engine to break away from the tranny. Then your hoist or cherry picker can take over.

That's what I recall from pulling Ford and Chev engines. They were in front of automatic transmissions, but I can't imagine the manual tranny would be much different.

Don't know what you have in mind, i.e., a swap or rebuild, but if you are rebuilding, I would put in new water pump and such. Also if rebuilding give some thought to a new radiator, or at least having a radiator shop flow test the existing one. I don't know about the Tacoma's, but the GM and Ford radiators could very easily be down to half their new flow rate by the time they had 100k miles on them. Don't trust cooling a new engine to an occluded radiator. Too much money at stake.

Also try a YouTube search. Maybe somebody has posted a step-by-step video on pulling that motor or similar. Good luck to you!

 

Why are you giving him so much attitude about asking for tips? Take that crap to the jeep forums bro. He's asking about a perfectly sensible thing.

When I did mine the ac compressor can unbolt and tuck against the frame with wire. Make sure the ground wire at the back of the block is off. I took the wiring harness out by unclipping it off the transmission and out of the cab. Be careful not to damage the trans kick down cable when your pulling the motor. To take the hood off I drilled an1/8 hole through the hinge andthe hood (be careful not to drill through the top of the hood) for aligning it. Wasn't too bad, you could do the rear main seal while your there if you feel like it

 

I must be insensitive. I didn't pick up an attitude in his post.

 

Thanks for the info guys; arifleman, tacomataco2, good tips.

No worries about fast5speed being insensitive, gotta keep in mind though, what is painfully obvious to someone who has already performed a procedure is not obvious at all to someone who hasn't.

Pulling the engine for a couple reasons.

my own education
need to get at areas of rust
installing DT headers/SC while its pulled
replacing the steering rack and assoc piping
will replace timing belt at same time although the truck only has ~ 40k miles on it
? replace water pump ... probably
I'll probably replace the clutch while its pulled as well (hoping Marlin Crawler gets their clutch in stock in time)

I'll try to do a blow by blow write up for the guys like me; too ingnorant to be afraid, ha!

 

That would be much appreciated - especially how/where you attach the hoist to the motor.

 

Actually, truth be told.... I really want to try out this engine lift that I snagged from CL yesterday for $100

 

Is it metric??

 

It was made in Canada and has a Volkswagen inventory ID tag so yeah, I'm guessing its metric

 

Just finished swapping mine.

On the driver side there is a hook by the rear of the intake manifold.
On the passenger side use a bolt and the power steering pump bracket.

 

Definitely do the water pump along with the timing belt. Also replace the thermostat.

 

Be sure to take plenty of pictures as you're pulling the motor. I just replaced mine and referenced the photos I took several times to make sure I routed everything correctly.

 

All this can be done without pulling the motor. Seems like a lot of extra work by removing the engine.
You should do your timing belt and water pump at 90k. At the end of the day it's your money and time so it's your call. If you do pull the engine I would suggest labelling all the bolts/nuts so you know where they go back, you'll probably have a decent amount on your bench.

 

This take a ton of pictures of the order you did it in...

 

I will be doing the thermostat (lower temp) to go along with the SC and I agree, might as well do the water pump even though with so few miles I'm sure it still has a lot of life left in it.

Thanks!

You're right, but having spent a fair bit of time trying to get at stuff in and around there already, all of it will be much easier to do with the engine pulled. And I really can't get at the rust problems with the engine in there so ....

Thanks for the tips so far guys