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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Mar 1, 2014 at 6:36 AM
    #3701
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    i want to run 1.5" X .120 and sleeve it with 2" X 3/8" if I can find it
     
  2. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:20 AM
    #3702
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    The moon
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    Tacoma with some stuff melted to it
    :eek: :eek: and :eek: I paid about $3.25/ft for it delivered to my house!! Any of you guys have this around you here is a 20% coupon

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:28 AM
    #3703
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    f u guys :jellydance: :p

    I'm running 2"OD x .25" DOM for my front links, not sure yet on the rear links. Either thicker wall and/or larger diameter DOM, or 4130 since the rear links are gonna eat shit much more than the fronts.

    Bending the hoops for the cage today. Hope I don't fuck it up. :pray:
     
  4. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:31 AM
    #3704
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Are you doing A-pillar first and out the back or doing the B-pillar first? I did A first from the frame all the way to the back window because it was easy to mirror and then the B-pillar is an easy 3 piece connection. Making a full B pillar hoop land on the frame and fit tight seemed harder to me
     
  5. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:36 AM
    #3705
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    I'm kinda doing it the other way.:eek: C, B, A. (C to C, B to B, and top of B to A if that makes sense...)
     
  6. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:46 AM
    #3706
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.

    Unless your sending the links to heat treat just go DOM 2.25x 3/8 wall should be fine if your bending those you can always swap them out for 2.5"x .500 wall. I know if i bend mine (with my wheeling style I don't think I will) but if i do I'll be making some 2.5"x .500 wall lowers.
     
  7. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:53 AM
    #3707
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Sure does, take your time and you will be fine :thumbsup: I just always cut everything a tad long, you can always cut more, you cant put tube back
     
  8. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:57 AM
    #3708
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    True words there everything I design in bendtech I add 2" of cut away on the ends sometimes more.
     
  9. Mar 1, 2014 at 5:50 PM
    #3709
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Yeah I was originally going to get 10' sticks for the main hoops and after the boat sides + cutting out more of the body structure I measured again, and as best I could I guessed ~132" so I just asked for 140" just in case. There's BARELY any left over. :eek:

    I had a huge fuck up that killed most of my day.:mad:

    Things were going really well until the last of 7 bends on the first hoop. Setting up the tubing in the bender, I put the pin in the C shaped that holds the tube to the die only part way in. Forgot about it and started bending away, then noticed this-

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tried a torch and sledge over a scrap piece of 2"OD .25" wall tube but it didn't budge. Finally used the whiskey bend and more scrap to reinforce it. So far, so good. :eek:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Mar 1, 2014 at 10:42 PM
    #3710
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    One of my guys did that the first bend I had him do without me watching. What a pain to fix i used the 20 ton shop press to shape it back the best I could.
     
  11. Mar 2, 2014 at 6:26 AM
    #3711
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Oh for the love of... why didn't I think of that?! :facepalm: I have a 20 ton press. :rolleyes:
     
  12. Mar 2, 2014 at 8:01 AM
    #3712
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    :D Painting today...

    Screen shot 2014-03-02 at 7.56.08 AM.jpg
     
  13. Mar 2, 2014 at 11:02 AM
    #3713
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    nice.. I had a thought. instead of sleeving 1.5"X 1.20 with 2.0" X 3/8

    why not just build a Type of pipe/shim that I can use to adapt the weld in bungs form the 1.5" to a 2.5" X 3/8 DOM save weight and be almost as strong as sleeving with the smaller stuff.
     
  14. Mar 2, 2014 at 11:56 AM
    #3714
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Increasing the OD of the link increases strength more than increasing wall thickness. Why not just buy 2.25" x .375 DOM and make life easier? Or buy 2.5" x .500 :p
     
  15. Mar 2, 2014 at 3:42 PM
    #3715
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    That's what I was saying id much rather go with a bigger Dia. Dom and a thicker wall than just sleeve the smaller stuff. But the Weld in bungs for the links im going to run are ment for 1.5" so id have to build a adapter of some sort maybe just use about 6" of dome that will fit the bill.
     
  16. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #3716
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Do it right and get a bung made to fit the larger DOM. Anyone with a lathe and some taps could make some. Hell, I am sure all it would take is an email to Dan @ ruffstuff and he would have some on the way in a few days.
     
  17. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:50 PM
    #3717
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    ive got a lathe and taps aren't that much shit I could do it what was I thinking oh yeah cheap and easy.
     
  18. Mar 2, 2014 at 6:10 PM
    #3718
    smkd13

    smkd13 Professional Idiot

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    Holy lazy lol
     
  19. Mar 2, 2014 at 6:16 PM
    #3719
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Do you have 1.25" taps in RHT and LHT? They are pretty pricey and will get used VERY infrequently to justify there purchase. If you have them great, otherwise I would have some made up. I would avoid an adaptor as that will mostlikely be a weak point having an additional joint etc.
     
  20. Mar 2, 2014 at 10:05 PM
    #3720
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Are you saying 2.25" x .375 wall won't work? Its 1.5" ID just like you need. 2.25" DOM is burly shit :eek:
     
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