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2008 tacoma cold knock (VIDEO LINK)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by toyota4wd, Mar 2, 2014.

  1. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:38 PM
    #1
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey everyone. So Ive read many threads about the cold knock issue but what scares me is that its a 2008 with 68 thousand miles on it. It has 5w20 royal purple in it, and a wix filter. It was around -3 degrees in the video, and its battery is a little weak.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9-DSVpFfwk

    Sorry its kind of short but its pretty easy to hear, even with the doors shut. It will go away at idle after around 45 seconds buts still there when you give it gas or under load.
    once warm nothing at all. It scares me though, I need this truck to last a long time:puke:
    Im thinking of letting the people at Toyota hear it, what do you guys think? Thanks.
     
  2. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:40 PM
    #2
    The Traveler

    The Traveler Desert Chief

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    Never knew this was a common issue...my 2010 with 104k started knocking when the engine is cold about 2 months ago. It rarely gets below 50*F around here, but mine makes the same sound.

    Subbed.
     
  3. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:43 PM
    #3
    08TacoTrD

    08TacoTrD Well-Known Member

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    My v6 does the same thing once it gets cold. I really notice it once it's below 25°F. I let it idle for a bit and then I am soft on the pedal for a little bit until the engine warms up. I use Mobil 1 5W-30 and 90+ octane gas.
     
  4. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:44 PM
    #4
    kirkofwimbo

    kirkofwimbo Well-Known Member

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    I believe this is the common "piston slap" issue. Mine will do the same thing in colder temps.
     
  5. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:49 PM
    #5
    NCtaco914

    NCtaco914 MALLIN'CRAWLIN'

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    Well Im not personally familiar with the 2.7 and have never heard any of my 4.0's knock under cold circumstances but, I will say I had a 22r that I though had a rod bearing going. So I immediately freaked out and bought a new motor before it went. Gave the old motor to a buddy and sure enough he put thousands of miles on it and ended up selling the truck. Still see it driving around town 3 years later..Basically what I'm saying is don't sweat it. Toyota's always seem to make crazy noises :rolleyes:
     
  6. Mar 2, 2014 at 5:58 PM
    #6
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thats too bad. Never should have sold our little blue 22r...But Ive got faith in Toyota, from what ive heard it can be the timing belt tensioner...but thats always talk and ive never heard of anyone actually investigating it.
     
  7. Mar 2, 2014 at 6:01 PM
    #7
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ive thought about maybe putting an additive in... but its got royal purple. Isn't it supposed to be the best on the market with additives and everything? I don't plan to keep running royal in it but I wanted to see if it would help. It didn't.
     
  8. Mar 2, 2014 at 7:35 PM
    #8
    lyodbraun

    lyodbraun Well-Known Member

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    Nothing yet
    Looks like your maintenance light is on as well ? Might help to change that oil ASAP...
     
  9. Mar 2, 2014 at 8:02 PM
    #9
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh I just did the oil and plugs less than 1000 miles ago, I just don't have a scanner to turn it off.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2014 at 8:08 PM
    #10
    username

    username Fluffer

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    You don't need a scanner.

    1. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position with the odometer reading shown (Note: 2011 + models may require using the TRIP A reading)
    2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter knob.

    Hold the knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.
     
  11. Mar 2, 2014 at 8:19 PM
    #11
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    My '03 Tundra sounded like a Powerstroke when it was below 45 degrees.
    It's just what happens with hypereutechtic pistons. Stronger than cast, not as strong as forged, they allow for tighter tolerances since it does not expand as much, but the designers took advantage of this and reduced the length of the skirt to reduce weight and friction, so piston slap is noticeable when cold.

    Just drive it "normally" until up to temperature and it'll be fine.
    As bad as my Tundra sounded, at 110k it did not burn a drop of oil, and the oil drained at 7500 was still clean on the dipstick. That was a great engine.
     
  12. Mar 2, 2014 at 8:56 PM
    #12
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I wasn't 100% sure. I will do that tomorrow. Thank you
     
  13. Mar 2, 2014 at 9:00 PM
    #13
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi, sorry this might be a stupid question but is piston slap the space between the piston and cylinder wall, or the wrist pin to the piston?

    Thanks for the reply.
     
  14. Mar 2, 2014 at 9:15 PM
    #14
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Piston to the cylinder wall.
    Wrist pins are more of a tick, but deeper than a lifter or injector tick.

    Piston slap is exactly what you are hearing on a Diesel.
     
  15. Mar 2, 2014 at 9:16 PM
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    username

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    http://www.pistonslap.com/whatisit.htm

    That said, I'm not convinced the noise is piston slap.
     
  16. Mar 2, 2014 at 10:00 PM
    #16
    toyota4wd

    toyota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm. Even when warm I can hear the valves ticking away at idle, I know that's normal though. I bought the tacoma with around 54 thousand miles on it and from what I can tell the previous owner were not all that hard on it, as I believe they were older folk.
     
  17. Mar 2, 2014 at 10:18 PM
    #17
    rocky2

    rocky2 New Member

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    I have a 3.4 liter 1st gen. with 120k miles that started ticking at cold start-up at freezing temps. What worked for me was a switch in oil from Valvoline 5w30 max-life to Amsoil 0w30 Signature Series full synthetic. This pretty much cured the problem. I was skeptical and ultimately pleasantly surprised that this worked! Good Luck.
     

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