How to change the rack and pinion steering -2nd gen V6

I thought I'd do a quick write up on how to change out the rack and pinion steering on a 2nd generation Tacoma with a 4.0L V6.

First question is: when do you need to replace your rack and pinion?

My thoughts: when your seals are leaking badly enough that the boots on the inner tie rods are constantly wet and you're having to regularly replace power steering fluid in the reservoir.

Look for this:

 

Look forward to the write up!

Here is a recent thread on the topic, two is always better than one

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.html

 

Having just done this, it is a bit of a PITA, but it can be done with 1 person in a garage with regular tools.

First, please refer to this thread on replacing your rack and pinion bushings with polyurethane ones: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.html

The reason is that you'll definitely want to replace these bushings with polyurethane if you're going through all this trouble and work anyway -- while the rack and pinion is out of the vehicle.

The only difference for me is that the OP of the linked thread says you need to cut about 1/4" off the driver side bolt to get it out -- for me it was more like 3/8". Removing the driver side bolt it definitely the biggest PITA of this job. Once that is done -- you're all down hill.

 

beat me to it

 

If you're going to go ahead and jump in to this project, go ahead and order a refurbished rack and pinion unit. I recommend the one from A-1 cardone, part #262629. It will cost you about $300 from rockauto.com after you return your core.

I do NOT recommend anyone attempt to purchase a rebuild kit with new seals, etc., to rebuild your own rack and pinion. Personally, I think the labor involved with rebuilding a rack and pinion with new seals is more than $300 of my time. And, if you have the tools and knowledge to do it properly, then this thread is not for you.

Your new unit will look like this:

 

The new unit will come with 2 new O-rings for the send and return lines from the power steering pump. These are easy to install. Notice the unit does not include the outer tie rods. You will need to reuse your original outer tie rods, or buy new ones.

 

This is the original core part number on the new unit:



Exactly the same as the original:

 

I think i may need to replace mine as well. That joint that is in that boot has slop in it. I think im doomed

 

First, let me show you the relevant steps, per the FSM. Then, I'll add my own pics.

Disassembly:







Reassembly:

 

This thread wins already!

 

Please note in this pic how the new rack and pinion inner tie rods are not exactly lined up with the old ones. In other words, the remanufactured unit does not have the steering centered when it shipped.




This is easily correctable after the unit is installed and the plumbing is done. Just center your steering wheel and wheels before you remove the old unit. Then, once the old R&P is removed, measure from mounting bolt to the end of the inner tie rod on both sides. If your steering is centered, then the measurement from passenger side mounting bolt to the end of the passenger side inner tie rod should be exactly the same as the measurement from the driver side mounting bolt to the end of the driver side inner tie rod.

Your new unit will likely not have this centered. So, after it is installed and plumbed, BUT BEFORE you install the steering linkage, please use some pliers and a cloth to protect the splines and turn the steering with the pliers until the measurements are equal. THEN, install the steering linkage. If you do this, your steering wheel will be centered with your wheels centered.

 

I had to remove these 2 bolts in order to remove the steering shaft linkage from the rack and pinion unit. Also, you'll need a rubber mallet to whack on the linkage a bit to disconnect it.



These are the feed and return lines from the power steering pump. Open ended wrench is needed to loosen these and remove them. Maybe a quart of power steering fluid leaked out.



This pic shows the relationship between the steering linkage, the feed and return lines, and the vent tube from the front differential:

 

Oh, if you're going to replace the rubber bushings with polyurethane ones -- and, yes, you should. You will definitely need a set of pickle forks and an air hammer. DO NOT even attempt to remove these without these tools. An air hammer and pickle fork will do in 5 seconds what would otherwise take 5 weeks any other way.






New bushings installed:

 

Sorry, newb question coming here - where do you use the air hammer? On the opposite side of the bushing from what we see in the photo?

 

S'd

 

The two mounting bolts are put in the wrong way. They are long. And they come out the top. BOOOO. Reassy is way quicker, out the bolts in through the bottom

 

AAh duh. Now I see it. Thanks.

 

Where did you get the new bushings?

 

Wow. That is very extensive. All I did was take off my skids, pull the lines, the tie rods, steering shaft, and the two bolts for the rack. To get the rack bolts out, I had to loses the alternator and AC compressor.

I put those bolts back in from the bottom. Makes the entire job way aside. If I do it again on a truck that hasn't had the rack replaced, I will cut those two bolts off. Then you won't have to mess with te compressor or alternator. It will be a 1 hour job that way.