The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Monte, opinion on what size CB drop I should get???

http://stores.streetacos.com/carrier-bearing-bracket-1-1-2-95-5-04-tacoma-4-lower-rear-lift/

http://stores.streetacos.com/carrier-bearing-bracket-2-1-4-95-5-04-tacoma-5-higher-rear-lift/

 

I'm nnot as knowledgable as monte in this area proprobably, but imo brent your angles will be the deciding factor

 

1.5'' for sure.

what i have and with the axle shims my drive shaft is straight as can be from the diff to the tcase.


the 2'' one is like for DB lift guys. Bit much for us really.

 

Awesome. Thanks!

 

is a nice piece. I like mine.

Could take a while to get.. i know some wait a long time..others don't... i didn't really.

 

What degree are you going for if ya don't mind me asking?
Eh yeah I hate the high cost and BS associated with higher education, but actually learning and applying the knowledge... wicked awesome

 

It's all good. I think I need to replace the carrier bearing anyways....

 

I replaced mine trying to chase a vibe.
To test if I thought it needed replaced, I would crawl under for sale yotas and wiggle there d shaft and compare. LOL

 

Audio Engineering.

I just want to start doing it. Right not im being forced to redo shit i already know..very annoying.

can't hurt..i did and my rear U joint.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/group-buys/319977-ecgs-group-buy-gears-lockers.html

 

and




although maybe if i regear by then..i won't have an issue either haha

Wish i was headed your way, would be fun to see you and mike again.

But, will have to wait. Check out the Red Heads new shocks while your there.

Funny though that you say that...i think every time you have seen Frank its almost drastically different every time..haha

ahhh..you missed that GB. was in the fall.

but yea, not a job for everyone to set gears. The rear diffs aren't too bad, but the front is sucky to do. And toyota diffs in general are just picky.

be quiet the task for me too.

 

Yeah they already discount the parts for those. Pricing is still good though. Looks like Ill be coming out at approximately $2415 for gears, rear locker, arb compressor and local install. Looking to talk the price down for install though. Brady said he got the 3rds and came out at $2500 with the smaller compressor but price has gone up since then. Maybe a local member can help you install?

And Monte, they didn't offer complete assemblies last fall either.

 

Same shocks that have been on there for the past few years.

 

I expect lots of cool photos

yea...but now they are cooler haha

 

Yes they are.

 

i dont remember exactly how you did his, but this is my plan for my shocks. seems pretty straight forward imo.

i really dont need to measure for shocks, considering how long they are. the bottom mounts will be as far out as possible and the top mounts will be as close as possible. done


im going to take some 3/16th and box the portion of the frame where the shock crossbar will go, make it out of some square tube, then get some round stock and weld it through the square tubing and tap it and make a shock mount exactly like the lower factory ones and use the factory bolts and lower mount hardware.

 

you have lots of other things to think about.

which direction you want the bushings to face on the shocks.

what angle you wan the shocks to be at in terms of a top mount and the axle.

You have lots of options really.

Ideally you want the shocks to sit right in the middle of their travel that your rig is at at ride height. So you have equal down/up travel. But if you don't have equal up and down travel, which im sure you won't especially since your doing 63s, you'll want to figure that out too.

Really its just about figuring out the best position for the shock to net you the most travel.


and thats not even thinking about ride characteristics. But i know you don't care much about that as your planning on just /\ as much as possible to get the most use of shock travel to wheel travel.


really though once i had the shocks in my hand and was messing with stuff, we were able to get them where we wanted pretty easily.

 

well they are the factory style bushings, so only one way to run them, straight parallel with the truck. and while it is true that don't care much about ride characteristics im planning on just /\ as much as possible to get the most use of shock travel to wheel travel, its more to keep the shock from bottoming out. ill be extending the shit out of the bumps, but to keep them from bottoming out i have to run the bottoms as far out as possible haha

 

what do you have 12s?

and no you can change how the shock bushings are. You can mount them so they are perpendicular too if you wanted.

If you set it up right, you won't need to extend the bumps too much. Whats the point in having a ton of droop if you have no up travel? pointless. Means you have the same travel number you have now or just a bit better, just moving where the wheel moves.

Did it ever occur to you to use a shorter shock but move the lower mounts on top of the actual axle thus gaining 3'' right there..so you'd have the same droop as a longer shock, but still have the up travel you had before. Therefore...more travel over all.