No-Slip HELP!!!

You're welcome, but I forgot you have a 1st gen. The torque specs should be almost the same though. You can find all the factory manuals for your truck here:

 

wells.........here's what i did......

since the "clunking" was on the right side (clunks when making right-hand turns), i thought i'd go in there to switch the couplers ONE MORE TIME (THIS WILL BE THE 4TH TIME!!!) to "diagnose" the problem. i thought it could be a bent axle but>>>here's what i got:

since switching the couplers around, THE CLUNKING IS NOW ON THE RIGHT SIDE!!! (when making right-hand turns from a stand-still, before it was on left-hand turns).

i'm thinking that it has to be a bad/defected coupler or my housing is f*cked up!!!

i'll try and get a new coupler or warranty that biatch. its either that or try and get a new housing.

my question is..........what diff case would fit the Toyota "8.4" rear (non-trd)?

4runners?
early 90s pickup/hilux?
(i know 96 and up v6 tacos fit but don't have any here in the junkers)

YOU ALL ARE THE BEST SOURCE OF HELP NOW!!!

*note* i did notice that when checking the "go/no go" test, one side has a bit more slack than the other. could this be the problem???

 

That might be the problem.

This site wil help you figure out what other Toyota trucks have use the same diff:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

I have a spare that I'd give you for free if you pay shipping. It's not in perfect condition, but I had no problems when I was using it. You can see some pics of it here:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/bu...fs-front-rear-open-differential-carriers.html

 

If your diff looks like this, then it is the same as mine:


Take note of the 2 metal cross pieces that provide extra protection for the ring gear and carrier.

 

oh yeah......looks like that!!!

 

Cool man, If you don't need the spider gears or carrier pin, then the package will be lighter and easier to ship. Let me know if you want it and I can get a shipping estimate for you.

 

pm sent.....no need for spiders or anything elst, just the case....shanks...

 

here are some pics of the "difference in gap when measuring the 'go/no go' test"..........

left has a little tolerance, could this be the problem?!?!?!

 

Looks like it barely fits in the second pic.

 

actually, it fits perfectly in the second pic. i believe that is how it's supposed to be. but on the other side, there is a small gap. maybe this small gap is what's causing the "slip"???

 

I was thinking about it some more, and I'm not sure that your carrier is the problem. If it was, then the Clunk would have stayed on the left even though you flipped the locker. You can still have it if you want to try anyways.

 

it DID pass the 'go/no go' test though......

i'll let you know if i need that carrier later in the day, gonna be a bit busy......thanks....

 

alright...........need some help now!!!

well, tore down my non-trd rear-end 4 times trying to install the No-Slip locker and kept running into problems!!!

went to the local junker and found a 2001 taco pre TRD (THIS DON'T HAPPEN AT ALL)!!! took the complete axle assembly for 86 bucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

now........i just need some assistance in wiring the new e-locker.
can i just wire it straight to the battery or does the e-locker need its own ECU??? (i'd rather just have a straight shot to the battery with an on/off type of switch)

I got the "diff lock" button and some wiring as well.

also, how do i test and see if the e-locker works without being bolted up to the truck?

any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

Nice find man, $86 is about $900 less than most have to pay!

Unfortunately, my "expertise ends here" as I've never swapped an entire axle or done anything with an e-locker. Should work though, good luck.

 

pics attached...

*note* i cutted of the 'diff lock' button and the wiring that goes up to somewhere in the front.

i don't care to go back to "factory". just need to work the damn thing and don't care about fancy shit as well, just practicality.

 

i wanted to be clear, here's my problem:

i have an uninstalled 2001 prerunner trd e-locker axle.

i need to know how to just test it and see if it works......then i'll bolt it on.

i have looked at diagrams on-line and don't know jack-shit what it all means........I'M A DUFUS WHEN IT COMES TO ELECTRICALS......IF MY LIFE DEPENDED ON IT, I'LL BE EXTINCT!!!

i do have the connector that plugs into the e-locker itself and the "diff lock" button plus the wiring to the front driver's kick panel (but i cut it off there so i don't have the "elocker ECU")

i DO NOT have the e-locker ECU (i understand it needs one???).

lastly, i have a Prerunner so i don't think i have the "4x4 computer" to plug this into......???

bottom line, i just need a simple way to bypass the ECU and make it work through some switches.

 

Keep in mind I'm not fully informed on the subject, but if I recall correctly
the ECU control or some sort of intelligent switches will be necessary, because it's not a simple current on / no current off. You have to supply current to the motor and then stop supplying it once the locker has been engaged. Same for unlocking. My brother has actually been working on building a harness for just such a retrofit. I wouldn't count on him finishing it anytime in the next year though.