ND4's Fog Light Anytime Mod... NO splicing, No Bending, 100% reversible

I have pondered that idea as well. Unfortunatly i have not come up with any simple way to do so... also after just spending some time behind the seat of my truck driving it, its pretty easy to just feel if the foglight switch is out (off) or in (on)

 

Interesting. ('14 V6 DCLB) volt meter shows switched to left top of that EFI relay, but only 11.77v. Right side (where you connected) is switched, but I only see 3.8v. The one to the immediate left of that always shows battery voltage (unswitched). Confusing.

It would be nice to find another switched 12v, like that air pump relay next to the fog relay.

 

sub'd

 

Did this today on an 07 via the EFI constant (13 in the pic pin 3). No problems.

 

musnt be grabbing from the right spots as that efi relay definitely switches 12v.

 

Just went out and checked again and the pin 3 socket to ground on that EFI relay does not read 12v (or close) when the ignition is on.
I did find a 12v to ground on the air pump switch right next to it, but how can I determine if is a usable 12v or just a ground circuit closing?

 

Not to be an ass but to verify you plugged the relay back in when you checked on pin three correct? If not you won't get anything. See the attached schematic.

 

Yes like stated above the relay must be put back in place as its the switch for the 12v ..

 

Not an ass at all, as a matter of fact I did NOT test with the relay back in place. Thank you, I'm learning!

However, that means the fog lamps are dependent upon the EFI relay & circuit, as noted in the original write up.

As an alternative I used a 12v lamp (as well as the meter) to determine pin 2 (drivers side, rear) of the Air Pump Heater relay (immediately above the Fog Lamp relay in OPs photo) goes hot with the key on & relay removed.

So without a schematic of my own, can you tell me if it remains hot, or is there something upstream that might kick it out? That would give a switched 12v source in the small box as convenient as the original inverter relay for those of us that are dc-ac challenged.

I appreciate your help. Just want to cover as many bases as possible to avoid making a wiring error.

 

So I checked last night and indeed I have a 2014 SR5 without the AC-DC inverter. So I will go with EFI solution. My question: Is the AD-DC inverter for the AC outlet in the bed of TRD OR and TRD Sport trucks? I was looking for a sport but they didn't have any in stock and the SR5 with tow package had most of what I was looking for. All a really wanted on the Sport was the AC outlet in the bed and the Billy shocks.

How difficult would it be to add the AC outlet? Has anyone with the SR5 package added that mod?

 

Never Mind. Found this thread: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/310171-outlet-bed-post7980590.html

Answers all my questions. Thanks!

 

Give it a shot, i am not sure if the air pump remains on at all times or not. Its very possible that the leg you speak of does go how on ignition but could ground out to switch the relay or visa versa. Give it a try and report back. Nothing should happen than possibly the foglights going off and on with the air pump.

Unfortunately the wiring diagrams i have are not the updated ones with the external relay box.

Yup as you have found that relay is for the AC socket in the bed of the truck. To be honest you can do a much more powerful and flexible setup with your own parts pretty easily.

 

I'll wire her up tomorrow and let you know. Thanks.

 

After reading for hours, I knocked this out in about 35 min. It was about 15min of prep work to cut the wire and crimp the connectors and then 20min to get it installed. I'm not an electrical expert at all and this was not too bad. I have a 2014 DC TRD Sport. If any one is interested in pics of the install or the parts I used let me know, more than happy to post a few if there is demand.

Thanks ND4 for the idea.

 

Glad it all worked out. !

 

Ok, just did the mod. I know I had a few questions such as where do I get male and female blade/spade plugs and wire now instead of ordering them online. So I've posted what I purchased and some other photos that may help you out. I'm not gonna lie this is only my second modification on my 3 day old new truck but my god I love this mod already!!! ND4SPDBP....you sir are amazing thank you for posting such a great and reversible modification!!! I did have to do this twice, the first time I cut down the male plugs too much and they wanted to slip out. I also made the wire too long and after crimping well....you're kinda SOL. I was also excited and rushed. The second time I slowed down and it went much smoother. I wish I could have found male plus without the hard plastic cover it would have made it a bit easier.

Here are the Male plugs I used. The Female look just like them. I bought these at HomeDepot in the Electrical section.


The 16awg wire that I purchased. It's braided. Its a small spool. It's also from Home Depot. They had other colors if you don't want black.


Here's the Electrical tape I used to color code the black wires to try to match the original colors as closely as possible. I used red in place of brown. Also purchased from Home Depot.


Here's how I inserted the Red lead into the AC-DC converter. I have a 2014 DBLC 4x4 Sport/Tow. I did check it with a volt meter this lead stays on with the 100/400W switched outlet on or off. You will have to cut down one of the male plugs. I used a grinder to do this particular one but was also able to do with with some side cutters as well. As you can see it does not go into the same channel as the original male prong on the AC/DC converter relay it goes into the little "half channel" just in front of it

Here's a picture of my finished wiring. You will have to cut off the blue plastic from the male connectors if you use the ones posted above. I found a little dremel cutting/grinding wheel to be the easiest to use. But I was also able to do it with a small wire side cutter it was just a bit of a pain in the ass. I then wrapped the ends with electrical tape to try to cover the "crimp" and the tiny bit of exposed wire to not have a short.

Hope that helps some of you out.

 

Nice job!

The male connectors i used did not have the outer surrounding plastic which made it much easier,

 

As I have been a bit anal about this whole thing and not wanting to mess with other relays, I opted to use an "add-a-fuse" to the switched EFI fuse holder with a 3A fuse for the fog lamp connection (smallest I had). I also used std 1/4" M & F connectors for the wires on the wider in-line side of the relay and 3/16 connectors for the narrower, parallel end, rather than cut anything down.
It works great and is easily reversible, if needed.
Thanks for the mod!

 

Very nicely done, that is also another good place to pull a switched on ignition 12v source.

 

I've been reading all this, and also the thread about changing fog lights....or maybe it was installing fog lights where there were none? But for me, the stock fog lights in my '06 TRD 4x4 are so totally useless that I don't see any reason to fool with changing the wiring per this thread.

I would kinda like to be able to flash them at those Dodge's that drive around (being obnoxious) all the time with their fogs on. Theirs are at least bright enough to be useful. I can barely tell whether mine are on or not, so what was Toyota thinking? There are certainly times where it would be useful to have fog lights that did me some good in the fog. I'm not interested in only making my truck look cool, but making it safer to drive in chitty conditions.