How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Are you happy with the plugs.? There are a Denso`s for the Tacoma, which ones did you use and how much are they.?

 

VinTaco- Chris 4X4 has this way back in his write up. I used the Denso OE K20HR-U11 copper plugs. My local NAPA(they show them as DEN 3381) had them in stock for $3.99. Look at the plugs for the K# before purchasing. Found if I had gone on Monday, they are 20% off. Check your local NAPA to see if they do this. I also picked up the anit-seize, boot lube and MAF sensor cleaner mentioned earlier. Auto Zone, O'Reley or Pep Boys did not carry them.
I finally just quit reading and started replacing! Cleaning my throttle body next.

 

Thanks Graywolf, Im guessing the plugs have a tendency to seize do they.?

 

Spark plugs do tend to seize in aluminum heads which is why you need the anti-seizing compound. It has nothing to do with the specific plugs. However be careful with plugs which have a metal plating, normally zinc or nickle. I have read that all NGK plugs now have this metal plating and it acts as the anti-seize compound. If you use anti-seize compound there is a high risk you could over torque the plug and break it off. So be aware of what you are doing before doing something like this. It's simple mechanic stuff but you just can't toss anything into a car without researching it first.

 

Hey.... changed plugs on the weekend, 108000 miles, never changed (different plugs on either side) & .70 gap... compared the old ones to the chart and it looks like it may have been running lean (yellowing around the top)... engine light came on a couple weeks before the plug change.... scanned the error found that the gas cap needed to be changed, $40 from the dealership (other third party caps did not provide a tight fit).... my question is do you think it might have been running lean because the computer over compensated for the loose gas cap, thus resulting in plugs yellowing?... Anything I should do now to keep the new plugs running good? I read the whole thread, great insight ppl.

 

Good to know, thanks for the info Chris

 

Going to change mine today if I can get my ass outta the bed. *lazy*

 

Changed mine Friday at 67k miles. Super easy job! Hardest part was running to the auto shop to pick up anti-sieze. The drivers side was not that much more difficult than the passenger side, just take the time to not rush yourself!

 

Yep I did it last Saturday. I did the oil and the spark plugs in about 2 hours while taking my time. It was a pretty easy job. Passenger was super easy and driver side just took a little longer due to the intake manifold being in the way a little. Definitely an easy job for anyone to do, its hard to mess up.

 

Thanks JoeSchmuck..

 

Great write up but i gave up on mine at 86,000miles. (Never changed out).

I did the PASSENGER SIDE and it took a little longer than i wanted. Took her out for a spin and even though i did 3 out of the 6, i noticed better engine response.

When i took the spark plugs out, i noticed the gap was 0.55 - 0.60 range.. Pretty incredible..

Does anybody else notice a strange hint of fuel smell upon start up after the plugs are changed?

I'll change the DRIVERS side out next week.

 

I'm almost at 60K, still on the original plugs. I had to go to 3 different Advanced Autos to find them. First place didn't have them, and then tried to sell me "...any of these are better than copper...". The second place tried to sell me the SK20HR-11 instead of the K20HR-U11, then didn't have those. 3rd place had them. Out of the box, they are all already gapped at 0.040.

Does the computer act up while adjusting to the new plugs?

 

My scangauge would report 23.4mpg (v6) on the first 200 miles and now, i guess it adjusted or something, but my scangauge consistently reports 20.3mpg or so.

I was so happy to see 23mpg on truck but reality has set in..

NOTE: I drive the same route everyday so i know what the AVG should be.

2010 Double Cab
-TRD Sport, V6

 

Sparks plugs finished. Passenger side was easy. I only unclipped the filter assembly and detached it from the intake hose. Drivers side was a PITA. I had a difficult time removing the wire harness from 2 of the 3 coils due to lack of room to work with. Throttle response does feel better now.

 

Just checked the gaps on the old plugs.

The old Denso plugs are 0.054~0.055
The old NKGs plugs are 0.061~0.063

 

How essential is it to have a torque wrench for this job? I've called around and the auto parts stores close to my house don't have one that will do 15 ft lbs. Is it absolutely necessary? Do most of you guys use the torque wrench, or just snug them down? AWESOME thread. Thanks!

 

I would have to say that if you are not experienced enough with installing items using specific torque values then you could over tighten the plug or leave them too loose. Do you have a Harbor Freight near you? Or maybe you could find a garage that would loan you one for a day. Also keep in mind that 15 lb ft is the same as 180 lb inch, so a torque wrench that can deliver up to 200 lb inch [or greater] would be fine.

 

^^^^Thanks! I'll have to look at the other options you mentioned here. I appreciate it!

 

Here is one for $22 at Harbor Freight, goes up to 200 in lbs, so like he said 180 in lbs. There should be Harbor Freight in Newport News or Norfolk VA.